[Guest]

I have a full set of HAL's going in, what else do I need?
I remember different bolts and a spacer in the rear. anyone know the sizes off hand?
Any tips or tricks to make the day go better?

 

[Guest]

You could use the "Help" Brand shock bolt kit:

 

[Guest]

The hardware that comes with the fronts should be fine, IIRC. On the rear lowers, you need to get your own. I don't remember the sizes or other specifics, but if you do a search, Autocrosser posted this information several months back. The top bolts in the rear are a bitch to do. It helps to have a second person. I drilled the hole in the sheetmetal out just a tiny bit so I could use the hardware that came with the HALs for the top rear bolts. No big deal. I believe others have posted about using a flexible extension to get at those bolts (again, a search should turn up this info). I used my son instead. He's skinnier than me, and pretty flexible. Good luck. You'll love those shocks.

 

[Guest]

How does the HELP! shock bolt kit compare to AutocroSSer's recomendation of

Grade 8 bolts, 1/2" x 3" long, qty 2
Grade 8 nuts, 1/2", qty 2
hardened 1/2" washers, approx 6 per side (qty 12.....but throw about 15-20 in a "kit" to be sure you have enough)
1/2" lockwashers, qty 2

 

[Guest]

Wow..!

I am still working on the front shocks & now I read the back is even worse, yikes..! My problem as copied & pasted [below]:

Does anyone know the best secrets to properly install the two lower bolts for a HAL shock? I mounted it same as stock shock per FSM & the same way the fasteners & stock shock came off of the car. Problem is, I don't think there is enough room for my thin wall 3/8" drive socket with universal & short extension to keep a good grab on the nut which is inside the spring & on top of the control arm [bolt head is on bottom of control arm]. It was dark & late so I quit until daylight tomorrow. The HAL shock is so fat that it's body leaves little clearance to the nut wrench flat [socket can't fit..?]. Maybe I need to buy a crows foot or torch a custom combo wrench..? Maybe a shorter bolt and then reverse the fastener so that the nut is on the bottom of the control arm & the bolt head in the spring pocket..? FWIW, the generic slotted aluminum bolting tabs of the front HALs are a [much] sloppier fit than the FSM stock parts and I worry about the soundness of the fit; should I worry..? I am thinking there should be washers but none were provided and the fit is very close tolerance [maybe no room for more harware..?]

But overall the slotted tabs to the fasteners are a poor & sloppy fit & I am concerned some...

Any experiences & ideas appreciated [please tell me its no biggy & not to worry]---?!?
PHOTO HERE: http://groups.msn.com/PSSST/shoebox.msnw

STRTWYZ The "Help Bolts" is that my fix..?

Respectfully & TIA---George

 

[Guest]

George : already replied to this on the ROD list, but you're making this WAAAAAAAAAAY too complicated!

Just use the stock bolts and J-nuts. Works great, problem solved

 

[Guest]

Ed,
Thanks, you were right. I even did one better because of your suggestion & got pics/details here: Hal Shock Install & other pics

You are the man Ed, thank you again!
Respectfully--George

 

[Guest]

Me Very Happy,
Installed the rear Hals today; they make driving the car on Hotchkis lowering springs a real joy

I bought all grade 8 stuff & used as follows:

TOP--reused the stock nuts & bolts [no drill handy] stock stuff works fine. 13mm combo wrench top nuts & 10mm extended & universal, ratchet on bolt heads.

BOTTOM--1/2" x 2 3/4" [near half threaded] NC flanged hex head bolts with locking [all metal] flanged nuts. Also needed 4 each side 3/32" thick washers to keep the shock body forward of the axle mount plate. <---The shock does rotate & move some, so prevents contact. The stock shocks have this feature built-in [look].

Good Luck & Thank You Ed Runnion---George