Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Wagon is coming back together. Not gonna do the big reveal until it's all done. But I am happy to share bits of how I've changed the car in the interim.

Due to how the wagon was modded, I had to add some rocker switches along the way. One for the trans cooler fan, one for the power antenna, and now I have two more things to add: a dimmer and a rocker switch for for the Dakota Digital dash I am installing. I despise seeing aftermarket switches. No matter where you put them, they look like crap. So, I try to hide them. With this many things to install - I've run out of hiding spots and none of the available pre-fabbed panels look anywhere close to acceptable. After some noodling around, I had an idea that would allow for discrete controls that look as close to stock as possible.

First off, if you smoke and use the ashtray - this ain't for you. In looking at all the possible spots inside the car to easily hide switches, the wasted box of the ashtray sprung to mind. I'd already had the rocker switch for my antenna buried back there in the weird little flat spot behind the tray, so I thought I could modify and expand on that install location.

I decided to get some new, flush, push-button latch LED switches from Amazon. I think they were $6 each. I liked these because they have a harness which makes life loads easier on install.


The dimmer for the Dakota Digital dash is monstrous. Yes, you can dim from within the VHX control panel, but it requires hitting the rocker, going into the submenus, and adjusting. I wanted to do it as easily as I could with the stock setup, so the dimmer is a must. Anyway, it's big.


Here you can see my old ashtray setup, along with the hole from the power antenna rocker. I bought another unmolested ashtray, but I will use this one to mock-up.


From this point, I started off with bits of paper and tried to create a pattern that fit the inside of the ashtray opening, and down into the rear recess where my old switch was. I wanted to make one piece that would cover ALL of it. Then I could use the spot in the back to mount the dimmer, which would also act as the fastener to securely hold-down the switchplate. After much trial and error, (and tape) I thought I had a decent pattern. Really, you want to get your paper pattern to conform exactly to the shape you want in the end. All the curves, angles, etc. The nice thing about using paper is that once you have all that done, you can pull it out, lay it flat, and trace it out for cutting.

I decided to use .060 steel plate for my swichpanel. Mainly due to the durability, and that it would fit into the front lower lip of the ashtray opening and sit flush. It's kind of a PITA to bend, but more on that in a bit. I wanted to build a proof-of-concept first, and then build a second one that would be the final version. I rarely get it right the first time and cutting metal usually doesn't give you a second shot.

Once I had my pattern, I traced it out and using both a jigsaw and my Dremel, was left with this:

Not too shabby, but the top part that fit into the recess was all wonky. I'd address that in the final.

To make the bends, I took my Dremel with the metal-cut wheel and scored the backside of the sheet wherever I wanted to bend it. This effectively weakened the steel, but really - this panel isn't going to be subjected to any stress that's of consequence. Here are my bend-lines:


And here is how the part comes out once all the bends are done:


As you can see, it's kind of a weird little shape, but with some time and patience (and a tester piece like I did here) you can get it done. The way I handled the bends was I used some 1x2 strips of wood and clamped the piece between the wood - right on the bend line, and then clamped that to my workbench. Then I used two 10" long pieces of 1/2" solid square steel billet and put vice grips on either side, clamping the outside of the bend - right up against the bend line. Using the vice-grips as your handles, slowly work the steel in the direction you want. Since the piece is clamped on either side, and close to, the score-line, there is zero warping beyond where you are clamped. It makes for very tight, very clean bends for those of us that don't have a press brake.

Once I was happy with the fit of the tester, I went back in with more paper and further refined the shape. Using another bit of steel and repeating the entire process, I ended up with this:


Edges are all crap and some of the lines needed massaging, so the next step was cleanup and radiusing the corners. Once the cleanup was done with the Dremel and a sanding drum, the fitment was about perfect. Here's how the panel fits - looking at it from the side. This leaves about 1/4" above the panel for clearance of the switches.


And here's how it is with the dimmer installed, and acting as the fastener to the entire panel:

I made the panel itself angle down a bit so it would push into the edge of the opening, and then the dimmer switch would pull it down into place - putting the piece under a slight tension to mitigate rattles.

Unfortunately, the knob for the dimmer provided by Dakota Digital is also way oversized.


Installing the knob leaves you with this situation - which isn't any good.


Off to Amazon, and $8 later - this is heading my way.


Once I get the 16mm hole punch and the knob, I'll install the switches and update this post. Eventually the piece will be painted a textured matte black to match the black plastics of the interior.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,927 Posts
Did you check the original dimming potentiometer in comparison with the included one to see if you could splice into it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
938 Posts
Nice to see someone sharing custom handy work.



Have you thought about using gray silicone calking(hardware store) to fill in the gap between the metal and plastic? It might stop dust and dirt and prevent squeaks and rattles.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Did you check the original dimming potentiometer in comparison with the included one to see if you could splice into it?
Dimming is handled internal to the Dakota Digital control unit, so your only choices are to dim via their rocker switch and internal menu, or their dimmer. The only thing connecting the gauges to the car is a single CAT5 cable. Everything runs into, and out of that control box. Patching any device into the control box that isn't made by them voids the warranty. I'm into this gauge pod for over $1,100 now once I add in all the modules I've bought, so spending $25 to preserve the warranty isn't a big deal.

Nice to see someone sharing custom handy work.
Have you thought about using gray silicone calking(hardware store) to fill in the gap between the metal and plastic? It might stop dust and dirt and prevent squeaks and rattles.
Thanks! I am intentionally leaving the panel removable so that I can add more switches, or replace things if needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
938 Posts
For my custom speedo conversion I used the trip switch for menu selection and the miles/KM switch for my AUX audio in switch. The Canadian 9C1 switch (dark mode and trunk release) adds two more factory switches if you can live without the cigarette lighter outlet. If you have a sedan not a wagon the wagon gate switches are another choice. The momentary switches on these panels adds extra wiring if you want latched on/off but I like the stock look that reduces the question of what does that switch do and can I steal it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,625 Posts
Nice. I have a couple small switches mounted in that rear location as well. I installed seat heaters when I redid my upholstery last year but have yet to mount the switches and this gives me an idea now where to mount them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,874 Posts
Wagon is coming back together. Not gonna do the big reveal until it's all done. But I am happy to share bits of how I've changed the car in the interim.
.........

......First off, if you smoke and use the ashtray - this ain't for you. .......
lol
This reminds me the only near facsimile I pulled off on an '82 Electra almost 35 years ago. I did a pretty nice stereo upgrade and took way too much time gutting the ashtray and cutting this into the door.



It ended up looking oem but your setup has to be the smartest use of an ashtray, and looking forward to the big reveal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
923 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Forgot to post the finished product. Labels are temporary until I can get the panel engraved:

 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top