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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Im not any kind of expert on this subject but I would not use any kind of cheap knockoff when it comes to head studs or bolts on a boosted motor. Thats just my opinion.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i had already purchased the arp's but saw these and was like damn i paid $100 more... just wanted to see if anyone had used them before...

also how do these get installed does the stud go till it doesnt tighten anymore how does this tighten so that if you loosen the nuts later they wont come all out at once, and yes i did see that they have a allen head set screw on top to tighten them but was unsure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You need to add thread sealer just like a bolt and tighten HAND TIGHT. Don't use the allen to tighten them down tight. You can use the allen, just don't sock them down tight. Just in till they stop turning.
Also, once done, put some bars leak in the engine or the studs will weep a little water.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks Paul for the info on the studs regarding the additive i take its called BARS.. i could this at any parts store right? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ARP bolts are great and the best I have used. When other bolts fail I have replaced them with ARP and no more issues. I'm from the school that it always cost you more money down the road when you try to save it upfront.

Paul is leading you right on how to put studs in anything. Too tight and you will put stress points in the block or whatever you putting the studs in and make it worse than if you had used bolts. With all the pushing the limits I do I will only use ARP. The last failure I had at the Pump Gas Drags was a non ARP bolts. Guess what I replaced the sheared bolts with?

Hope it helps.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Karl found that if you put RTV silicone
on the head studs that they wont leak.
No need for BARS leak to contaminate the radiator.

-Nab
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yo nab whats up bro are we talking RTV silicone like in PastyShi$ not liquid or spray is there a particular silicone hes using...the RED,BLUE,CLEAR or my favorite the ULTRA BLACK?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by (BOOSTED)T-56'D-RMS:
yo nab whats up bro are we talking RTV silicone like in PastyShi$ not liquid or spray is there a particular silicone hes using...the RED,BLUE,CLEAR or my favorite the ULTRA BLACK?
He used the black RTV on my ERE#4 head studs - no leaks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i dont see why it wouldnt work though so regardless if karl did it or not SILICONE RTV still can be used there due to the basics it does dry and create a good bond and if it needs to stretch then it will w/o seeping.....now if BARS contaminates, then i definetly wont be pouring it down my newly purchased AFCO 4 core..lol...

i think i will try the silicone all you have to do at worst case is let it SET overnight so that it can dry proprerly...hmmmmm......this is very good... :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
is there some reason that teflon thread sealer wont work in this situation..


Ive also always heard to use Sealer #1 on head bolts.

i just use white teflon paste.

oh and also karl uses "the right stuff" rtv made by permatex. it is black and i have to say i was impressed with the tube he sent me to seal the stefs pan. Seems to be the nicest rtv ive ever used. driesVERY firm.


Mabye paul has had a problem with the rtv before? Mabye the rubberyness of it is a bad thing?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i hasve always used that teflon paste on all of my builds but on BOLTS and studs since the studs arent tight into the head in the bottom just being pulled tight by the bolts from up top there is a possibility of seepage at the studs threads...therefore i would think the RTV would work fine due to the fact it streches. the teflon paste doenst dry up completely and stays a little pasty after installed and SET....now the RTV should dry and set w/o the a problem since it is RTV...
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The only reason I use black RTV to seal head studs is because that's all that works for me. (Right stuff) (I guess it's really gray). I'm told that any silicone RTV will work, even the cheap plummers stuff.

But I asked around before using it to any engine builder that would talk and it turns out that almost every engine builder uses silicon RTV for studs. Some who said they use it were Ed Wright, Mark McKeown, Lennart Bergqvist, (one being Engine Master Champion and one being Engine Master #4).

I still worry about it but luckily engines with RTV on the studs have not seeped.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i will say that the 383 that came out of my car, had no sealer on the threads. and they seeped. until someone used bars.


Did you put it in paul?


I dont htink its "bad" to use bars, i use it customers cars all the time for tiny pinholes etc on a radiator or something, i just didnt like the sediment left in the block but i dont htink it hurt anything.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Shane,

Yes. The studs were weeping on the KK.

Karl,

Good for you. Just because some people use it and it works. Doesn't mean it's correct. RTV is overused and improperly used all the time.
Last time I checked, ARP said to use thread sealant, not RTV.
And I've seem plenty of "expert" work that I wouldn't trust to get a car off a trailer let alone last for 10K miles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Originally posted by I Boil Lobsters:
Nab,

Just because Karl did it don't make it right.
Silicone,RTV, has a place, and that ain't it.
It may not be right in your book, but it works.
If you ask me, putting BARS leak into a cooling system is not the "right" way.

-Nab
 
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