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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to find a head unit that has HD Radio, Sirius ready, BT, AND 3 RCA out. Which is kinda hard unless I give up on one of the options (HD Radio is the least important). Options are a little limited it seems.

Is Max depth for the 96BBB 6"? There are some head units on Crutchfield saying they will not fit because they are 7" deep. Sonic Electronix is saying they fit. But I cant verify depths.

Has anyone gotten a 7" head unit to fit or is it impossible?

I do not want the head unit sticking out all goofy-like. Just trying to figure out max depth for a head unit.

Thanks,

Rob.
 

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Take out your stock head unit. Look in the back of the opening. You will see a square protrusion where the old head unit fit its locator pin into. Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel, and cut that square part flush with the surrounding plastic. Now, just about any head unit will fit flush with the front of the dash trim.
 

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Like he said, but unless the Impala is dramatically different from the Fleetwood, (that I don't know, someone who's more familiar with the differences and similarities of the two models would have to weigh in) it's still a tight fit with some units. I put in a Pioneer AVH x5600bhs and to use my rear USB inputs and RCA inputs/outputs, I had to use 90° adapters. My unit is a 2013 model though, and when I've looked at pictures of some of their newer units it looks like they've recessed all the connectors further back into the unit which would alleviate that. I'm not really familiar with any other brands though, but most Pioneers have everything you're looking for, at least in the double DIN stuff. However I know that's another issue with the Impala's, double DINs usually require more work to make fit. But I've got HD radio, Sirius ready, bluetooth and tons of RCA ins and outs. It seems to me though that most of their stuff regardless of whether it's double or single DIN has all those features standard these days. And other name brands are likely similar in features.
 

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Is it already done? I put a Kenwood DNX890HD into my '96 Roadmaster. Just got a flyer showing a new DNX893S which adds some very nice features. Look it up! My 890 fit well but I had to run a bunch of wires outside the back (front?) of the radio box. No problem and none show.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Deh-x9600bhs

Hey guys,

Thanks for the info. I installed the Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS. No issues whatsoever. It's certainly a tight fit. I did not modify anything. I did see the little hump back there that I could have dremel'd off. But figured i'd see if it slid back. And it did! So I didn't modify anything. I attached a photo.
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You can see, there is a heat sink center rear. I am worried I smooshed a cable in between the heat sink and rear of the head unit "slot". I'm not sure how hot it gets so we'll see.


Love the unit. 3 RCA's. Detachable face. BT and mic, HD Radio, Got my Sirius hooked up. Ran a USB cable from the back (it has 2 rear USB ports)

I hear a slight whine coming from my speakers. But that's not head-unit related. Might need to adjust my amp...etc.


Rob.
 

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Hey guys,

Thanks for the info. I installed the Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS. No issues whatsoever. It's certainly a tight fit. I did not modify anything. I did see the little hump back there that I could have dremel'd off. But figured i'd see if it slid back. And it did! So I didn't modify anything. I attached a photo.
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You can see, there is a heat sink center rear. I am worried I smooshed a cable in between the heat sink and rear of the head unit "slot". I'm not sure how hot it gets so we'll see.


Love the unit. 3 RCA's. Detachable face. BT and mic, HD Radio, Got my Sirius hooked up. Ran a USB cable from the back (it has 2 rear USB ports)

I hear a slight whine coming from my speakers. But that's not head-unit related. Might need to adjust my amp...etc.


Rob.
Looks good and I really need to see about swapping my In Dash Faceplate that sticks out about an Inch and replace it with a Flush Kit instead. That area is really tight and the boys at Crutchfield say these radios wont fit our dash but we all know better now....may require some cutting.



Just one word of advice if I may. I would seriously reconsider the types of connections used for the wires. Not only are they bulky and take up a lot of space, they can also cause issues over time as the connections can loosen up. It is best to inline splice each wire, solder it and then cover it with heat shrink and then wrap the entire harness.

Don't have any pics of the radio Harness I made, but this Headlight Harness mod gives you a good idea of how I do each wire. I also try to stagger each wire so you don't end up with a "Big Clump" where all the splices are.



When installing the radio, got one of those harnesses that plug into the factory harness and just created a mini harness using the Radio harness and wrap the entire thing for clean install and no wires get hung up or pinched.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks good and I really need to see about swapping my In Dash Faceplate that sticks out about an Inch and replace it with a Flush Kit instead. That area is really tight and the boys at Crutchfield say these radios wont fit our dash but we all know better now....may require some cutting.



Just one word of advice if I may. I would seriously reconsider the types of connections used for the wires. Not only are they bulky and take up a lot of space, they can also cause issues over time as the connections can loosen up. It is best to inline splice each wire, solder it and then cover it with heat shrink and then wrap the entire harness.

Don't have any pics of the radio Harness I made, but this Headlight Harness mod gives you a good idea of how I do each wire. I also try to stagger each wire so you don't end up with a "Big Clump" where all the splices are.



When installing the radio, got one of those harnesses that plug into the factory harness and just created a mini harness using the Radio harness and wrap the entire thing for clean install and no wires get hung up or pinched.


You are absolutely correct. The way you soldered and bundled everything is way better. If I have the chance to re-do it I will use your style. Considering its so tight.

My unit doesn't seem to stick out as far as yours. Best Buy initially did my first head unit 15 years ago and put in that adapter. Its either Metra or Scosche. Crutchfield sells Metra HERE and Sonic Electronix sells Scosche HERE



I had a question.... to anyone really.... I have a whine in my speakers. When I wired everything I did all the typical stuff. I ran the power down one side of the car and my speaker wires down the other side to prevent feedback. I have excellent grounds for the amp and woofer (to the bolt of a seat belt and to the trunk hinge with the other grounds). I have checked the grounds in the lower left kick panel and they are clean and tight.

The only thing that is suspect really (to me at least) is the head unit itself. Despite my prior post stating otherwise. We soldered up the harness and attached the black ground of the radio to the black ground of the harness. Can I disconnect this and ground the head unit to the car itself? or leave what I soldered and run another ground from that connection to somewhere metal also?

Any help with that would be much appreciated.


Rob.
 

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Wow. I should have looked at a picture of an Impala dash before I posted a reply about fitting a double din stereo in. Obviously no chance of that.

About the wiring. 4DoorSS is right on track with his solution. From the image it looks as though he may have inline crimp connectors in there. I would advocate using a couple or more old fashioned clothes pins mounted to a board to clamp the wires so that the ends are stripped and overlapped 1/4" or less then soldering those. Before you do that slide a close fitting piece of heat shrink up the wire to slide over that joint and shrink down. This takes a little less space and you can stagger the joints a little less.

When you get tired of that stereo you can slice away the heat shrink tubing and unsolder those easily. Leave the radio loom with the radio and you keep the car end. Unless it's the car you're getting rid of. :)
 

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RROB - If that radio whine started after your recent radio upgrade? Try to run a wire from the radio Chassis to a body ground. This can sometimes fix a whine issue like you may have.

About the wiring. 4DoorSS is right on track with his solution. From the image it looks as though he may have inline crimp connectors in there. I would advocate using a couple or more old fashioned clothes pins mounted to a board to clamp the wires so that the ends are stripped and overlapped 1/4" or less then soldering those. Before you do that slide a close fitting piece of heat shrink up the wire to slide over that joint and shrink down. This takes a little less space and you can stagger the joints a little less.

When you get tired of that stereo you can slice away the heat shrink tubing and unsolder those easily. Leave the radio loom with the radio and you keep the car end. Unless it's the car you're getting rid of. :)
No, there is just an inline Splice of the copper strands and some solder, then covering each individual wire with Heat Shrink and then wrapping the entire harness with electrical tape.

Inline splicing provides a SOLID Mechanical connection while then soldering the joint provides a SOLID electrical connection. This link does a good job of describing what I've done for years when splicing wires. This link shows a solid wire but this concept works well for stranded copper wire as well. I guess it's at least NASA approved. :smile2:

How-To: Splice Wire to NASA Standards | Make:

2 bits of advice when using heat shrink on the splices. 1) be sure to put the heat shrink on before joining and soldering wires. Done this a few times before. :frown2: 2) Keep the heat shrink away from the joint you are soldering. Heat from the soldering can cause the HS to shrink a little and it may not slip over the soldered joint. Been there, don't that a few times too.

How-To: Splice Wire to NASA Standards | Make:

Both of those head units that stick out can be flush mounted if you do the Dremel work and get the proper Metra mount.
Do you happen to have the Part number kit that you used? There was a recent thread with this info (believe I responded) but I'll be damned if I can find it.
 
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