[95SS59]

My headlights will not come on. All other lights work, park, tail, interior, etc. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I suspected the headlight dimmer switch. Swapped out a spare, but still no headlights.
I pulled the wires from the dimmer switch, yellow, green and tan. Green goes to high beam, tan to low beam. Yellow is the power source from the headlight manual switch. If I hotwire the green or tan from the battery, the lights work.
Voltage at the yellow wire is12 plus with the manual switch turned on. But, if I connect tne yellow to eitner the tan or green, basically turning headlights on, the voltage at the yellow wire goes toward zero.
I suspect the circuit breaker in the manual headlight switch. I have a spare, but this is on my 59 body on the 95 SS chassis. I have the headlight switch installed in the 59 stock position, and it will require a major dash disassembly to get to it.
Before I tear my dash apart, I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and do you think I am on the right track?

 

[Z09B4U]

if I connect tne yellow to eitner the tan or green, basically turning headlights on, the voltage at the yellow wire goes toward zero.

Do the headlight light at all?
If it was a weak breaker I would expect the headlights to come on then shut off like a switch.

If you touch the yellow to one of the head light wires and they do not light but the voltage from the yellow wire goes to zero I would suspect the wiring is damaged or corroded or the headlight connector is damaged or corroded.

I would "hotwire" the red (supply) to the yellow (headlight to high/low) at the headlight switch. A inline fuse holder with a 20 Amp should do the job for testing. In case you have more than one problem by pass the high/low switch again and connect the yellow to one of the headlight wires.

I would inspect the shell and contacts for heat damage.

The only reason the breaker in the head light switch would normally go bad is if you ignored a short circuit that shut off and turned on your head lights all the time. Some may argue but the other reason the breaker might go is if you used 80/100 Watt headlights ALL the time.

If it was a 9C1 or was exposed to someone who did not understand electrical wiring the yellow might have been messed with for blinking headlights or a attempt to find the starter wire (also yellow and big).

 

[95SS59]

Do the headlight light at all?
If it was a weak breaker I would expect the headlights to come on then shut off like a switch.

If you touch the yellow to one of the head light wires and they do not light but the voltage from the yellow wire goes to zero I would suspect the wiring is damaged or corroded or the headlight connector is damaged or corroded.

I would "hotwire" the red (supply) to the yellow (headlight to high/low) at the headlight switch. A inline fuse holder with a 20 Amp should do the job for testing. In case you have more than one problem by pass the high/low switch again and connect the yellow to one of the headlight wires.

View attachment 209494

I would inspect the shell and contacts for heat damage.

The only reason the breaker in the head light switch would normally go bad is if you ignored a short circuit that shut off and turned on your head lights all the time. Some may argue but the other reason the breaker might go is if you used 80/100 Watt headlights ALL the time.

If it was a 9C1 or was exposed to someone who did not understand electrical wiring the yellow might have been messed with for blinking headlights or a attempt to find the starter wire (also yellow and big).

I just wrote a long reply saying that I think you found my problem. But the website wouldn't let me post it. Kept telling me that my username was already being used. Anyhow, thanks. Someday, I'll learn to use this forum.
m

 

[Z09B4U]

When you log in un check the stay logged in box. When you are done click our your user icon and log out. That should stop most of the logged in or out problems.

When I remember I copy my long replies before posting. I have failed to log in or had the site go out for maintenance, either way the post disappears.

You could jump from the headlight switch's yellow to a head light wire. If that works it points to the yellow wire from the headlight switch to the high/low switch.

 

[95SS59]

Thanks. I need to do the posts that way. Will try the log in / out thing, too.

 

[95SS59]

Thanks guys for the comments. From you advice, I think I’ve figured out my problem. Too high wattage headlights. Not sure what a permanent fix will be, though.
This issue is on my 59 BelAir with a complete 95SS chassis and electronics..
When I put the 95SS chassis into the 59 platform, I tried to keep everything as stock 95 as possible. One of the compromises I had to make was in the headlights. The 59 platform has quad headlights, burning the old TT3 type sealed beams.
So, when I hooked the headlights up, I ran the low beams wires to the outside lights, the stock 59 low beam position. For the high beams, I ran the 95 high beam wires to all four headlights, stock 59 position.
I bought aftermarket lenses and bought modern bulbs that fit the lenses. I don’t remember what wattage they were, can’t find my paperwork. They weren’t anything exotic, picked them up over the counter at AutoZone. But, I do think that they were of a fairly high wattage.
Not long ago, I had to replace the high/low beam switch. Can’t remember the symptoms for that time. Used a replacement from a steering column, I had pulled from a junk yard. The plug actually burnt, so I replaced it too.
Also, lately I noticed the twilight sentinel (TS) has been keeping the lights on most of the time, even in daylight. It was something I meant to check, thinking that the sensor was probably dirty. So, I’m thinking that running the lights almost constantly hurt the dimmer switch, and this time permanently tripped the circuit breaker built into the manual headlight off/on switch.
It’s going to be a major job replacing the manual headlight switch, because it is jammed under the 59 dash in the stock 59 spot, and is hard to get too, with the 95 dashboard circuit board and a lot of other 95 stuff in the way. I haven’t been able to unhook the wire pack to it to do any trouble shooting there. I’ll manage replacing it, but don’t know what a permanent fix would be to keep it from happening again. I guess pull my headlight bulbs and try to find lower wattage bulbs. Definitely won’t run high unless necessary.
I won’t be able to work on it for a week or so. Have to do some PM on the real 95 SS, our grocery getter and do a brake job on the wife’s G8 GT for inspection. Will keep you posted if I figure anything else out. Thanks again

 

[Z09B4U]

don’t know what a permanent fix would be to keep it from happening again. I guess pull my headlight bulbs and try to find lower wattage bulbs. Definitely won’t run high unless necessary.

This would be one of the few times I would recommend headlight relays.
You need all four headlights for the beam pattern and stock (normal) headlights draw around double what the b body headlights would. (high or low beam)
The relays make the high current circuit the shortest distance needed, and take the current load off the wires from inside the car to the relays.

 

[Marky Dissod]

When I put the '95SS chassis into the '59 platform, I tried to keep everything as stock '95 as possible.
One of the compromises I had to make was in the headlights.

The way GM spec'd the '91-'96 B-car electrical wiring in the first place
IS THE COMPROMISE.
Hence WhisperJet's and Gary's headlight harness upgrades ...

 

[95SS59]

Hmm. good ideas. Thanks. Neither easy, but moving the higher wattage out from under the dash to where it can be handled makes a lot of sense. Will think long and hard. After a quick search I found a few old discussions about both relays and Whisper Jet, what ever that is. Will research.

 

[MWP]

Hmm. good ideas. Thanks. Neither easy, but moving the higher wattage out from under the dash to where it can be handled makes a lot of sense. Will think long and hard. After a quick search I found a few old discussions about both relays and Whisper Jet, what ever that is. Will research.

Installing relays isn't bad at all--the re-wiring is all up front, splicing relays in so the existing headlight feed wires from the dash switch are merely trigger wires (takes very little power), and adding heavier gauge wire (fused) from the positive side of the battery (or suitable engine compartment junction) to the relays and then into the headlights. One relay for highs, one for lows, amperage depending on whatever the combined lights take. Gary's kit is very high quality, complete and plug-and-play, so it's a breeze to install, but your BelAir connectors/harness dimensions might mean doing your own. There are kits on ebay/amazon of unknown quality.

 

[Z09B4U]

Gary's headlight harness was made from quality parts and he had a great reputation for craftsmanship and product support. He does not seem to respond to PMs see this thread for email:

Innovative wiring, what happened

Always checked Gary's site on Google. Now all I get is GoDaddy and cant seem to go any further. Any body know whats up or what Im doing wrong? Just in case I dont do Facebook, Period!

www.impalassforum.com

That said this is a custom non Impala application.

For a basic diagram have a look at this link. I did not read the page just looked at the diagram.

Wiring Headlight Relays

What is wrong with the diagram is that both relays are connected to the same power source.
For redundant safety the high and low beams should have separate "auto reset" breakers. This means if a wire grounds out and trips the breaker the breaker will reset if the wire shakes loose of the short to ground. It also allows you to use one of the two if one fails.

I bought aftermarket lenses and bought modern bulbs that fit the lenses

So a H4 low beam is 60 Watts. Two is 120 W. To allow for the surge current at lights on a 15 Amp breaker would be my choice.
A H4 high beam is 55 W and a H1 is 55 W. So the four would be 220 W. With surge 25-30 Amp breaker would work.

Standard bosh or hella relays that are kept away from road splash and high heat will last a long time. The ultimate would be the weather sealed relays like Gary used.

The stock 9004 bulbs were 45/65 W. So the head light switch breaker was designed for 130 W not your 220 W Even your low beams at 120 W were "warming up" the breaker.

 

[95SS59]

Installing relays isn't bad at all--the re-wiring is all up front, splicing relays in so the existing headlight feed wires from the dash switch are merely trigger wires (takes very little power), and adding heavier gauge wire (fused) from the positive side of the battery (or suitable engine compartment junction) to the relays and then into the headlights. One relay for highs, one for lows, amperage depending on whatever the combined lights take. Gary's kit is very high quality, complete and plug-and-play, so it's a breeze to install, but your BelAir connectors/harness dimensions might mean doing your own. There are kits on ebay/amazon of unknown quality.

 

[95SS59]

I think I can handle the relay installation and rewiring OK. Space will be an issue. Things are tight up front. Need to get smart on the correct relays. And find sourcing. Definitely want to mount them in engine compartment. Otherwise they would be exposed to the harshest environment - open fender wells. Wires run from engine compartment into open fenders and then to lights. Will have to redo a lot of wire access routing, but that's just work.

 

[95SS59]

I'm ready to start designing the relay system for my 59s headlights. Can anyone suggest a source for the relays that I need?
Any available from other vehicles? We have a good Pick n Pull here in VA Beach.
I'd like weather proof ones if available.
Jack

 

[Fix Until Broke]

There are several options for relays and associated fusing -

One is to peruse the junk yards and find an underhood "fuse block" about the size/shape you want that has a relays and fuses in it. Typically you can re-pin them to your needs or sometimes use them as is, particularly ones from the 90's/early 00's - newer than that many of them are PCB mounted which complicates the process. Many GM/Ford will use ISO 280 relays and fuses same as the B-bodies do.

You can buy a "Power Distribution Module" and wire up your own with MetriPack 280 series terminals (what much of the original wiring in B bodies was). This one will hold 2 relays + fuses --> GEP Power Products FRH-A24 Sealed Fuse and Relay Holder | Waytek You'll need the terminals, wire seals, a cover and obviously the relays/fuses themselves. This will be weather tight (if you choose) and exactly how you want it, very factory looking. Probably one of the more expensive routes, but arguably one of the higher quality options as well.

They also make relay "kits" with an integrated fuse, mating connector with pigtails. These are easy, typically low quality not weatherproof and look kind of tacky in my opinion. I had about 10 of these in the first iteration of my car before doing the "build your own" solution above from Waytek.

relay with wires and fuses - Google Search

 

[95SS59]

Thanks, good rundown and links. I think I have the drift now. I just need to get up to speed on what was available, particularly mounting.
i zpreciate everyone's input. Have learned a lot.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

Depending on how much of the 95 wiring you kept and how many of it's original circuits are still in use, you may have room in the 95 under hood fuse block to add these relays/fuses.

And even the most expensive build your own solution above should be well under $100

 

[95SS59]

Depending on how much of the 95 wiring you kept and how many of it's original circuits are still in use, you may have room in the 95 under hood fuse block to add these relays/fuses.

And even the most expensive build your own solution above should be well under $100

Everything in the undertood fuse/relay block is still intact and in use. No room there. Finding a location that will allow reasonable access and be out of the weather is going to be an issue. But, a solvable one.
One would think that the 59 engine bay had room to spare, but the 95 stuff, ABS, ECM ,and 70s era AC box pretty much filled it up.

 

[Z09B4U]

Finding a location that will allow reasonable access and be out of the weather is going to be an issue.

I do not understand the need for "reasonable access". With parts with weather seals, and proper wire protection this is a "do once and forget" project.

For weather protected breakers look for a product like the Pico 949-11.

12 AWG @ 30A Standard/Min Blade Waterproof Fuse Holder 949-11

Prairie Bearing & Bolt is a local business in Selkirk that serves the community by providing excellent service & low prices since 1987.

prairiebearingshop.com

I do not shop the US market often so I can not recommend a equivalent weather proof breaker holder.

Any available from other vehicles?

You have to "know your way around" when using used parts. late 80 to early 90s European cars would have the weather proof relays and connectors. The challenge is to find a relay connector with the wire size and correct pin orientation for what you need. The other issue is some of the OEM relays have a diode across the coil. These relay coil terminals are polarity sensitive. If I had to get a relay out of another old car the A/C compressor bypass relay is the best choice. The normally open (energize for on) contacts are not used on this relay and would (if still sealed) be like new.

With the quirks and challenges and the high prices of used OEM relays new parts do not cost much more.

 

[95SS59]

I didn't realize new relay holders were so available and not very expensive, so new it is. I don't intend to look for bone yard stuff now.
Regardless, if I find weather proof units or not, I want roadside access to both the fuse and relay. I drive the car too much and in too heavy of weather conditions to not have ready access. I'll find a location. May take some relocating of other stuff, though.