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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there guys, I just recently posted not too long ago that my LT1 spun 2 rod bearings, instead of trying to rebuild the old engine I found a LT1 out of an Impala I think primarily it’s a B-body or D-body engine and transmission and PCM for $1000 in Kingman, AZ. Supposedly it ran when pulled and last owner wanted to swap that into a el Camino. He claimed it was out of a firebird or camaro and said it was 94 but it has the vent line for the opti and it doesn’t have the 96 timing cover so I think I lucked out on the same year as my Impala so should go right in…
I still have to remove the cars stock transmission that was left behind while the engine was out, I was wondering what you all would do on making the whole trans removal better for me, engine/trans install more efficient I’m limited on space but have a hoist just not enough concrete and rocks everywhere cause Arizona… thank you all in advance I know it’s a loaded question but ask me anything I’ll try and respond to help me get this done on my day off on Thursday. Again just need the trans all the way removed then onto installing new-to-me drivetrain and hopefully it fires right up and I can get back to cruising in my baby. Thank you guys I hope you all are with family enjoying the holidays God bless you.
-Cade 1995 Impala
 

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Hi Cade. Can you post pictures of the new engine? Can you put a wrench on the crankshaft and rotate it? Does it rotate smoothly with no grinding or harsh sensations? If so, then you're probably good. I know it's Arizona, but if rain got into any open ports, you'll feel the piston rings go over the rust as you rotate it. If so, it'll need some interior work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Cade. Can you post pictures of the new engine? Can you put a wrench on the crankshaft and rotate it? Does it rotate smoothly with no grinding or harsh sensations? If so, then you're probably good. I know it's Arizona, but if rain got into any open ports, you'll feel the piston rings go over the rust as you rotate it. If so, it'll need some interior work.
Yes I will post them now thank you. I should have spun it by hand he told me it ran good has less than 100k miles but I should have had him spin it idk what I was thinking.
 

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I’m limited on space but have a hoist just not enough concrete and rocks everywhere
I feel ya, I had to pull my trans from my old 9c1, and my driveway was gravel/dirt. If you have a semi level spot you could use a piece of plywood to move the hoist on, not an ideal solution, but ....
 
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Hi, based on your pic of the engine with W/pump and this pic showing all 3 types


you have a B-body water pump on that engine. SO we hope it is not a f-body engine with a b-body water pump put on it.

To sum up,
you have 95 SS with engine out and tranny in.
you bought engine and tranny you need to swap into your car.
you need ideas how to get tranny in car now out of car.

-ALF out....
 

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EDIT - It's got an B-body accessory bracket on it, zooming in on the driver's side cylinder head, all I see is brown, so I suspect it's an iron head motor. Given the age of these cars, it's likely that somebody put an iron-block LT1 into their F-body, then the seller pulled it and sold it to you.

The smooth power steering pulley is also specific to B-bodies.

EDIT - My bad - I mistook the upper alternator bracket. That's definitely a B-body setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So now I’m contemplating leaving the original transmission in the vehicle and just install the engine. I think that will make the install for me a little bit easier I think I could be wrong. Having both transmission and engine on hoist is a bear by yourself and with my limited space I think I can do the engine absolutely. Original trans has around 140k miles and ran just fine last I remember.
 

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If it was working fine before the engine let go I would just leave it be. Drop in the engine, hook it all up and drive on.

If it were me I would make sure it turns over. Strip all that crap off of it. Pull valve covers and see if there is any filth and grime in there. Pull the oil pan just to make sure there are no surprises inside. Check a rod and main bearing. Replace water pump, install the known good opti with a new cap/rotor.

I say that because I recently bought an LT1 that was pretty clean inside and turned over. A little digging taught me that it was recently rebuilt and not taken care of at all. .030 over that needs to be pushed to .040 and a .010 under crank that is trashed. Can't decide if I want to just rebuild it as is or go 383.
 

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So now I’m contemplating leaving the original transmission in the vehicle and just install the engine. I think that will make the install for me a little bit easier I think I could be wrong. Having both transmission and engine on hoist is a bear by yourself and with my limited space I think I can do the engine absolutely. Original trans has around 140k miles and ran just fine last I remember.
#1- I did engine and transmission at the same time and it was difficult. At the time, I had no way to remove or install the transmission from “under” the car, so it was kind of a must for me. I would recommend doing the engine and transmission separate if you have the capability.
#2- Another “in my opinion”: At 140K your transmission is tired. I see a transmission rebuild in your future, but it certainly does not have to coincide with the engine.

I like to do things all at the same time “as long it is apart”, but that approach can paralyze those of us trying to adhere to a budget. That approach also makes all of my small projects into unnecessarily bigger ones. (n)

I say if you have the will power to do the engine alone, by all means tackle that, and start putting aside money for that transmission rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi again guys. So as I was attempting to remove the transmission, the strap was wrapped around the passenger side exhaust manifold making the transmission a bear to slide off. I cut the strap and took off the exhaust manifold and I’m almost done taking everything off the engine to drop in and start installing the transmission. Since the strap is no good, how would you guys go about hooking it back up to a engine hoist tiller from harbor freight? Or just use a ratchet strap to lift engine? Please let me know. Oh and I should flush out the stock oil cooler so there’s no metal debris floating around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I’m now going to go get a engine tilter and probably a transmission jack to make my life easier. What size bolts do I need to thread into cylinder heads? There’s a hoist bracket on rear of passenger side head. Should I put the other mounting point on drivers front cylinder head? Thank you
 

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So I’m now going to go get a engine tilter and probably a transmission jack to make my life easier. What size bolts do I need to thread into cylinder heads? There’s a hoist bracket on rear of passenger side head. Should I put the other mounting point on drivers front cylinder head? Thank you
The bolt holes in the ends of the cylinder heads are 3\8 -16 thread. Same thread for the intake and exhaust manifolds. you may run in to interference between the rear lift point and the firewall as you lower the engine
 

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I am sorry I can’t offer relevant information for your case, but I can show you what gave me trouble:
I bolted to the head holes. I had a very hard time rigging the chain lengths to get the balance “right”. Again, I had a trans bolted up so your balance will be better.
My main issue was that bolting to the back of the engine ensures the chains interfere with the firewall. In the past, I’ve had better luck by bolting the chains to the intake manifold, but I didn’t know how to do that on the LT1 intake.
As you already mentioned, this job requires a load leveler to reduce the headaches.
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