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R

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Discussion Starter #1
Well got my shocks in the other day....and I started to put them on. Problem is the old ones are a bitch to remove. I've sprayed 1040 and another lubricant to get them out...but no luck. I've even blow torched the retaining nut and still no luck. I have no leverage for an open wrench for the nut on top of the shock and I can't manuever plyers for the top. I was able to remove the front left....but that took 3 hours ....theres gotta be a simpler way. The way I was able to remove that one was clamp a pair of plyers to the rod and then use a socket to remove the nut on top. I've tried that with the second but no luck.
Another question after putting on the left front shock...I have about a half inch between the top retaining nut and the rubber bushing. Problem is after tightening the nut....I still have about an half inch of space remaining still. If theres an easier way....let me know. I was attempting to save money but now I'm scratching my head. I haven't attempted to remove the back ones yet. Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Sometimes the good ol' hack saw comes in handy. Yes, its no fun but it won't take 3 hours and plus it'll fit inside a coil. Or if you have a small dremel tool or something, just cut/grind the top of it off.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
The shop had to cut mine out since they were so rusted (Chicago Winters) :rolleyes:
with a torch.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
First off, rest assure that the back is alot easier to do than the front's.

Second, here's what I'd try (and this may be something you've already tried, or know), but it worked for me.

Now, assuming the car is up on jack stands, and you have a jack under the lower control arm, jack up the control pretty high so that you have lots of clearance. Instead of using pliers, take an alan wrench and stick down inside the hole in the top of the shock rod. See what I'm talking about? Then use an open ended wrench and yank that crap out of it while holding the alan wrench. The key is to make sure the rod isn't spinning at all (and it won't with the alan wrench in that top hole) while your twisting that nut off.

I've also found that by having the shock still bolted into the lower control arm on the bottom helps out a little too. Hopefully this helps a little.

Oh, and FYI, use some towels or gloves when holding the alan wrench and open ended wrench cause there will be alot of pressure and your poor little hands will hurt like no other. I'm sure you've already found that out by now though, lol! Hang in there man, your almost done.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys....I'm gonna try that. Another question....I bought this car without the key fob....bought one the other day on ebay. What do i have to do to get that to work. I have my rug ripped out and noticed that there is a module on the drivers side rear. Do i have to take that number of that module and take that to a chevy dealer or what?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Here's an Old Timers trick for the top nut.
Use a deep socket with a long extension. The longer the better. Grab the extension and bend it back and forth. Get agressive and keep bending it back and forth. You'll snap the rod in short order.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I took the stock shocks off by removing the splash guard from the fender (it is clipped on in the engine compartment) and then going in with a dremel with a cutoff wheel through the engine compartment to cut the rod right below the top nut. This may be hard to visualize but if you peel back the splash guard in the engine compartment you will be staring straight down at the top of the shock and the upper control arm.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Not a bad idea Nate, not bad at all...I would go that route.

:cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #9
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by B.I.G. BruiSSer:
First off, rest assure that the back is alot easier to do than the front's. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

C'mon BruiSSer...you're kidding, right? Don't give the guy a false sense of hope! Even with my spindly arms, the tops were a beeyotch! I agree with RJI, that's how I removed my fronts. Put the socket on there and bend, bend, bend, Snap...No prob.

Ron, The rears are...awkward to say the least. As for the key fob, I don't believe you have to take in the number. If you go to the service department, I think they just jump two terminals in the data port (help me out here guys) and do something else and it sets the code. I'm not 100% sure because I was in the parts dept but when people came in and bought one we'd send them over to service, should only take a minute.

Sean
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I thought the rears were easy. The tool that made the rears easy was a small 1/4" drive ratchet with the appropriate socket. Perfect for the hard to get to top bolt in the 'back'. I have long arms though.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ron5896:
Thanks guys....I'm gonna try that. Another question....I bought this car without the key fob....bought one the other day on ebay. What do i have to do to get that to work. I have my rug ripped out and noticed that there is a module on the drivers side rear. Do i have to take that number of that module and take that to a chevy dealer or what?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here are the programming instructions I got from Impala SS Technical Archives

Programming the RCDLR Module

1) Find the programming connector that is hanging off a wire harness on the upper left side of the trunk, just behind the carpet (about 8-12" from the rear stop/turn lights). Its a 2-pin male connector with two black-with-white-stripe wires.

2) When you short these two pins together with a screwdriver, the RCDLR will cycle the lock and trunk solenoids to confirm it is ready (the trunk release solenoid sounds weird when the trunk is already open).

3) Pressing any key on either remote will program that remote to the RCDLR. To disable the automatic unlock-in-park feature #(2): after the last remote is programmed, but before you un-short the programming connector, press this sequence three (3) times on a remote: lock, unlock, trunk. The RCDLR will cycle the door locks and trunk release solenoids three times to confirm at the end of the sequence. Note: I had to try several times, I don't know if I lost contact on the screwdriver I was holding in my other hand, or I did it too fast or too slow, but it eventually worked.

4) To re-enable the unlock-in-park feature of (2), just repeat the above to reprogram the RCDLR to your remotes, but don't do the special three-button-three-times sequence.
 
R

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Discussion Starter #12
Well...i was able to remove and the istall the front shocks....thanks for the emails. Now its the rears....kinda of tough with the small nut...but I'll get it.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
My chosen method was a Sears nut splitter for the front shocks...
 
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Discussion Starter #14
This has worked for me: Take some rubber sheeting and put it into the jaws of your trusty vice grips and grab the shaft through the side of the spring. That should give you enough purchase to remove the top nut. Just make sure if you are going to reuse the shocks not to mar the polished surface.

Best of luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
As for the rears, I dropped the bolt in from the top and spun the nuts on from the bottom. Much easier than balancing the nut on top to start it.

Good luck.
 
R

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Discussion Starter #16
Well....i got the bolts loose from the top of one of the rear shocks but it seems like the bolt is stripped because it turns but doesn't seem to screw out. I've thought of using a dremel to saw off the top of the nut in order to drop out the shock but how would I get the remaining bolt out?
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Ron-
One the rear upper shock bolts, there is a nut on the other side of botl and the sheetmetal. You have to get a box wrench up there to get them off. Do a search forr rear shock install and it should guide you through. Really not too hard, just awkward like the others said.
 
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