Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok Guys, Here's the Deal: Front end Rebuild is almost complete on My Dailey driver Caprice. Re-Did the Whole Front suspension with Moog parts (Poly bushings inc). Keep in mind that I Have NOT Dropped the car on the ground yet to torque the control arm bolts properly or the tie rods yet. Take a Look a the Pics below and Please Answer me a few Questions:
( 1 ) The supplied End Link Bolts "Appear" to be too short! I Cant squeeze the Last top Bushing in place and have any thread left to handstart the Nut on! They came in the Rebuild kit.
( 2 ) I Put a 9C1 Sway bar on Instead of the STOCK Caprice Bar, Is this thing On Correctly or Upside Down? BTW, Ordered correct Sway bar Bushings for the 9C1 Bar. I Actually flipped this bar upside down and tried it but it was "Damn close" to the Idler Arm, So I Flipped it back over (It just didn't look Right).
( 3 ) Do I Need to drop the car on the Ground 1st before the end link bolts will fit with all the bushings in Place? The Sway bar ends appear to not Align up correctly with the end links (They look like their on an angle).

Give me some Insight here guys so I Can Order the Extra parts I Need or do this correctly!
BTW, I Did a search 1st but couldn't quit find the answer(s) I was looking For! Thanks for any help!






 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Do I Need to drop the car on the Ground 1st before the end link bolts will fit with all the bushings in Place?
Bingo.

The bolts that came with the poly links for my car were much shorter than stock, the car had to be on the ground to even think about putting the nuts on. Those links look like mine, which means they should be fine.
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've had the same problem more than once. It does help to put the car on the ground, or I use rhino ramps, so I can still get under the car.
I've also been successful making it fit by not installing the top rubber bushinguse a few thick steel washers on top instead.
Once you tighten this all up and scrunch the other bushings, you can remove the nut and washers and then install the new top rubber bushings.
Rich
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Cool on the End Link Senario! Is the Sway bar On correctly from the look in the pics? I Know the bar needs to be basically Parallel to the lower control arm when Done! Thanks Wayne and Rich for the Help!
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes Mike, the SB looks like it's on right, but from the pix, it looks like the 'slits' in the SB to Frame Bushings are facing towards rear of car[at least driver side looks that way]. They both should face FRONT.
My bolts for SB Links were kinda short also, but with a pry bar, got all hardware & nut on. REMEMBER, when you tighten Link nuts[car on ground at ride height], only till Bushings start to bulge! Do final tightening after engine is installed in car
[full weight].

BTW, what Brand/PN are those SB/Frame Bushings/'U' Clamps?
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by LarryCigar:
Yes Mike, the SB looks like it's on right, but from the pix, it looks like the 'slits' in the SB to Frame Bushings are facing towards rear of car[at least driver side looks that way]. They both should face FRONT.

BTW, what Brand/PN are those SB/Frame Bushings/'U' Clamps?
I'll Dbl Check the Slits in the Bushings Tommorow Larry to make sure? ;) The End Links setup came in a Kit from Performance Suspension with Energy Suspension bushings and Moog suspension parts. I Can get the Part#'s when I Get home from work in the AM And Post them!....Thanks!
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm interested in Brand/PN for SB/Frame Bushing Kit, not end links.
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Got it Larry! I Still have all the Boxes in the Trunk! I'll post #'s and Brand Name for Frame bushings and Clamps tommorow! BTW, Can ya tell me how to do a "Burnout"???
 
L

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Couldn't help myself. Felt like recommending four 12oz. cans for each tire. :D
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Larry, Here's the Swaybar Bushing and Clamp kit that came with my Front end Rebuild kit! BTW, The slits in the Bushings were facing forward, I Had to loosen 1 Clamp to make sure because I Couldn't tell by eyeing it!.....Thanks

 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Wow, everything is all painted and perty. Just like mine... I went ahead and Por-15'd the frame though too. I'm curious to see how well the stuff holds up.

Also, I don't see the foam pad bewteen the idler arm and the center-link.. Is it in there?
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by Spartus:
Wow, everything is all painted and perty. Just like mine... I went ahead and Por-15'd the frame though too. I'm curious to see how well the stuff holds up.

Also, I don't see the foam pad bewteen the idler arm and the center-link.. Is it in there?
If your reffering to the 2 Small round foam pads that are on each end of the center link, Yep! Their in there! a Small amount of grease "Ozzed" out of them when I Lubed the joints up as seen in the pics. Wanted to do Por-15 Also Tom but running out of time to get the daily driver back on the road! Engine is on the stand and Done! Trans is back from rebuild and The Wife is Bitchin about the Miles rising on Her 93 Roadmaster
. Boy, Aren't these kinda Jobs Fun!
BTW Tom, I See the " American Axle and Manufacturing logo on your Sig. Wasn't that The GM Three rivers Hydramatic Plant at one Time? If so, I've got alot of friends at Saturn Spring Hill that Came from that Plant!
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Put a motor in that car before you torque down the endlinks
. You need full weight on the suspension to get them to tighten properly. If I remember correctly from my own car, when there's no engine, the suspension doesn't compress at all.
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yeah Mike, my plant used to be Hydramatic, where they made the venerable 200-4R..... When I hired in, back in 93 they were Saginaw making driveshafts.. Then GM sold us to American Axle in 94 and now we make driveshafts still, plus axles for the 2500HD and 3500HD trucks....
 
B

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by Mike454SS:
Put a motor in that car before you torque down the endlinks
. You need full weight on the suspension to get them to tighten properly. If I remember correctly from my own car, when there's no engine, the suspension doesn't compress at all.
I Am Mike! It's All still Just Hanging there and Not Torqued down at all yet! I Estimate the Weight of Engine and Trans to Be Approx 650 to 700 lbs. If I Throw a Barbeque at the house with some cold Ones Inc, Bet I Could talk 3 Of My "Fat-A$$" Friends To climb In and Stand on the Frame crossmember while I Tighten things Down Heh???
Nah! I Think I'll Just wait for The Engine/Trans to go In!, I'm sure it will be cheaper in the long run! :D
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top