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J

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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I am in the process of installing the springs I got today. I am not sure if I was suppose to know this or not; but how does the rear & front springs go? The Hotchkis spring have one side in which the coils are closer together than the other side. Closer together on top or bottom? I didn't get any instruction with the springs...don't know if I was suppose to or not.

Thanks in advance!
Waiting by the computer...the car is on jack stands
 
B

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Discussion Starter #2
Hey JB,

I have never seen Hotchkis springs but...

Front springs - the "flat" end of the spring goes up, irregardless of how the individual coil spacing goes.

Rear springs - I can't really remember but, I THINK the smaller pig tail diameter goes up (if you can check by looking at how the original springs came out).

Good luck!


Mike
 
J

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Discussion Starter #3
first congrats on receiving your springs, still waiting on mine.

I believe the spring coils that are closer should be on bottom. I am no expert, but I know that you want to get these done, and wanted to offer some help. I searched all archives and cannot find anything on installing the springs, including the FAQ page.

I will continue to look for you though and if I find something, I will shoot it over to you.

good luck!
 
J

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Discussion Starter #4
Guys thanks for your quick responses!


Rear Springs:

The new and old are about the same height and the pigtails look the same size. I am thinking that the closer coils should be at the bottom because that is the closest similarity between the old spring and the new one.

Again thanks for the search! I had bustn looking around also with no luck. I also went to the hotchkis website and found nothing.
I kinda put all my tools away and figure to work on it tomorrow morning.

I hope with the pictures(courtesy of the impala super store) someone can make a good guess.

Thanks!

 
M

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Discussion Starter #6
hey jim i only have you down for HAL shocks, i dont see an order for hotchkis coils????? let me know


JB
im not why hotchkis doesnt put instructions with these but i wiill have an answer in a little while. ThanksS

nick
 
C

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Discussion Starter #7
JB
if you look on the springs you'll see hotchkins and some numbers, you should be able to read the writing,install right-side up. I had the same problem and call hotchkins. now I have a question for you how did you get the old stuff off the front?
 
J

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Discussion Starter #8
catcaddy,

Thanks for the info! I saw the #s but I figure ask since sometimes common sense is not your best helper.

I have not done the front springs yet. I will either tonight or tommorrow morning. I will update as soon as I do the front.
I figure to start with the back since I didn't have much time to work on the installation.
 
I

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Discussion Starter #9
To install/remove the front springs, you need to pull the wheels, then pull the calipers off of the rotors (hang them from the frame rail hole just to the right of the a-frame mount with a piece of wire or coathanger). Then undo the sway-bar mount from the lower A arm, as this will limit the amount the lower A arm can swing down once the upper balljoint is removed. You must remove the UPPER balljoint from it's seat, not the lower (trust me =P ). Leave a hydraulic jack under the lower A arm when you undo the upper balljoint. Make sure you put the front end of the car into the sky to make sure your lower A-arm has enough room to swing down. Slowly let the hydraulic jack down until it has reached it's maximum travel and pry the spring out with either a crowbar or a metal rod (make sure there isn't alot of tension on the spring still, Shake it with your hand and make sure). After that, just reverse the process on install =) Lowered springs go in a hell of alot easier than the stock ones. As for hte rear, just undo the shock mounts and upper control arms and let the rearend swing down with a hydraulic jack. Those springs just fall out like nothing once you do that. Good Luck, Email me if you have any more questions. And those donuts that you have go on the upper side of the springs, they're for noise dampening.

-Matt Norris
 
A

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Discussion Starter #10
On the rear springs, usually the "further spaced" coils go DOWN, not up. At least that's the directions on the Moog Cargo Coils (progressive springs) that I have.

Also be sure you get the spring pigtails lined up correctly both front (covering ONE hole, but not both, in the spring pocket) and rear (the top pigtail end should be pointed directly towards the left side of the car).
 
E

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Discussion Starter #11
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>if you look on the springs you'll see hotchkins and some numbers, you should be able to read the writing,install right-side up.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Is this correct for both front and rear? Thanks.
 
M

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Discussion Starter #12
Matt...awesome instruziones for front spring R&R. Question: I am doing mine in a day or so but have been briefed to disconnect the lower B/J!?!?! Is there really enough room to get the spring out past the knuckle by disconnecting the upper B/J only???? This is a new procedure for me...so I'm asking a lot of questions. I am not doubting you, jsut confirming! The book outlines an entirely different procedure...jeez!
 
T

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Discussion Starter #13
I always split the lower BJ to change springs. Lift the upper control arm and knuckle and put a 2x4 between the upper control arm and the frame. I use a bungee cord to hole the knuckle out of the way.
I'm sure other methods will work, but this one works for me.
 
M

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Discussion Starter #14
splitting the lower balljoints is the EASIEST way to change the springs. I have tried the ol unbolt the control arm and use a spring compressor and take it out backwards. but the BJ way you dont have to undo the top shock mount just rotate the coil till it comes out. ive seen about 300 vehicles lowered and splitting lower balljoint will be faster. one of the guys that used to work for me could do a front end on a fullsize chevy truck, impala or S10 in about 30 minutes both sides and put it back together with no extra parts ;). make sure you dont pinch the grease boot while doing this or you will have replace it. if you have access to a air hammer with pickle fork attachment its like butter just make sure that jack is under the control when it pops. weve only had one time where the coil wanted to join us but the shock was there to stop it. thats one reason i leave it in for protection. SSeeya

nick
 
J

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Discussion Starter #15
Great instruction guys!

It was just my luck that I couldn't take out the front shocks even with my impact wrench. Of course I couldn't break the shocks from up top since I was keeping them. Soooo... I took the car to the shop for the installation.

I really like the hotchkis shocks :D I think these are the springs to go if you want to keep it as close to stock ride.
 
T

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Discussion Starter #16
I have the Kent Moore tool shown in the FSM to split the ball joints. I believe KD, Snap-on, Matco and others have the same spreader tool. One could probably make one from a length of water pipe and a bolt, nut and a washer that would be good for one car, but the real deal will work better and last longer. Almost no risk of damage to the ball joint with that tool either.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I hate to sound stupid, but I'd also hate to do this wrong. Should the name and numbers printed on the springs be right side up for both front and back? Thanks.
 
B

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Discussion Starter #18
Nick, your right!


I swapped front springs out last night in about 2 hours total by popping the lower ball joint. The last time I changed springs I took off the lower control arm from the frame. It was about 5 hour job. It was amost impossible to line up.

Mike
 
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