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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my lt1 back from the Machine shop now it’s time to make a decision on pistons and cam need help first built thank you guys in advance for a 96 impala ss


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it wood be helpto no what you are to do with motor going for high powr or driver or what mods otheryou do to get the most from car with other things like trans rearend tuning to get u best recommendation what did machine ship do to LT1 you are welcome in advance
 

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it wood be helpto no what you are to do with motor going for high powr or driver or what mods otheryou do to get the most from car with other things like trans rearend tuning to get u best recommendation what did machine ship do to LT1 you are welcome in advance
Punctuation goes a long way. Give it a shot.

Op: You leave a lot in the "unknown" category. Anyone that would suggest anything based on the sparse info you have provided should be ignored. What do you want out of the engine, what is the car being used for, any power-adders (FI or nitrous), and budget.
 

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I was trying to adapt my communication style to match the OP's based on their previous posting history. Looks like I succeeded :).
I had to recheck your reply as I know you're more precise in the posts you make. They are detailed and educated. With that being said, I decided to take a wait and see as I knew something was afoot here. So guys, lets not start a dick bumping contest over this so we can find out more from the OP and try to help him.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I was trying to adapt my communication style to match the OP's based on their previous posting history. Looks like I succeeded :).
LOL - that's what I get for posting too early in the morning. Sorry!
 

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LOL - that's what I get for posting too early in the morning. Sorry!
Dan, All is well. I just don't want to see any more members get so annoyed that they leave the forum. We've lost Scot over whether to bolt on an item or weld it. Mike from Hamilton Chevrolet has gone too. Both were over such trivial matters. I wonder how much important information and help we have lost over hurt feelings. It's up to all of us to " Stay the course" and keep this the best B body forum.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Sorry everyone and in particular to mojoe407. My post was not considerate or helpful.

As others have mentioned - if you can provide some additional information on what the machine shop did to what parts of the LT1, what your goals are from the engine and car along and a rough budget, others much more knowledgeable, experienced (and mature) than I will be able to provide you with options and recommendations for your engine build.
 

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Yah -dan, Fix-, you're good. No apologies needed here. As exasperating as the thums-only, no-caps/all caps, mispaled, misyoused, no-punktiation, absent-gramer, addel-braned spewings increasingly prevalent nowadays, I actually blame it on stern and resolved schooling where nuns didn't spare the ruler and rope to raise us to identify communications skills as part-in-parcel with basic respect and more effective relations with others. And see, I disregarded even the basic rule not to write a sentence more than 20 words long. lol


Mark, I am mindful of concern that a youngster who's (whose) oblivious to how dismal their communications behavior is, will get all butt-hurt and think we're personally picking on just him on purpose. If only they realized the cold hard reality that fighting such deplorable typing and unsuccessfully conveyed thoughts with every occurrence is the only means of protecting this forum and keep it from decaying to the condition of other comparable forums I hear about. Makey-Face, Spacey-Book and Insta-Blurt have places somewhere in society, just nots heres.


I'd like to see this thread live an improved quality of life, but not reassured if a motor actually got to finished bareblock without a notion of overall build. We got either an incredibly rich kid whose (who's) got several motor projects in the chute and picking willy-nilly a vision for each, or a troll just tryna strike up free but misdirected correspondence with a forum still more focused on sharing knowledge than You-Tube comment style exchange.


And FTR I've had plenty a' coffee so adequately calmed down. Let's see the OP exhibit the maturity and grace to come back with a well-ordered, detailed and methodical presentation of pertinent background and answerable requests that permit equally intelligent participation and contribution by the braintrust here, instead of trying to decipher careless gibberish. After all ain't no one charging nothing here, so more than 26 seconds deadline on attention span should be the barest minimum ante to start a thread eh.


OP, seriously hope to see you back - could be a growth opportunity. Hint: spell check / grammar check FTW, both here and in real life. And red squiggly lines are your eventual friend, so deal with them.
 

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You should pick the cam before you pick the pistons, and you should pick the pistons (and rings) before you machine the block.

  • The cam will dictate the P2V clearance, which you adjust with deck height and or pistons.
  • The material of the pistons and type of rings will dictate how the cylinders are bored and honed.
Therefore, since you have put the Machine work cart in front of the parts horse, you may have to:
  • Get more work done on that block
  • Get a new block and start over
  • Or you may simply have fewer parts choices, and thus potential limits on overall power
What was done to the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok guys this is my first build I had the block bored 30 over had my crank turn New freeze plugs main bearing I’m new to this my first rebuilt engine so take it easy guy my rods resize now I got to get new pistons and rings I need a cam hope this answer your questions and like I said I’m not a mechanic just trying to save money rebuilding it myself


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There is a huge difference between a built engine and an assembled engine.

To avoid major disappointment, or possibly blowing it up, I suggest you buy a kit that is somewhat mild or close to stock.

Ever hear of the price of knowledge? You always pay that price!
  • Either pay someone that already has the knowledge to do it right.
  • Or you make your own mistakes and learn what not to do next time.
That's the best I can offer to you. I'm not sure if anyone can help you build an engine over the internet.
 

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Brakit Down



Ok guys this is my first build I had the block bored 30 over
Surmised as much.

had my crank turn
Turned? If so, Surmised as much.
New freeze plugs

Rather apparent.

main bearing

Main bearing what? New main bearing, not all of them? If all are new then surmised as much.
I’m new to this my first rebuilt engine so take it easy guy
Surmised as much. And it's pretty much a consensus, so it's 'guys'. And we are being easy. Very easy.

my rods resize now
Rods turned?

I got to get new pistons and rings I need a cam
Yes, already mentioned.

hope this answer your questions
Sorry, not even a start

and like I said I’m not a mechanic
Yes, we got that.

just trying to save money rebuilding it myself
see reply above



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My dental extraction skills limit me to the following:

got my LT- back + the vague crank/rod info = a motor you already have (therefor not a vette 4-bolt) got stock lower end work and just reusing the current rotating assembly = zero to very modest modest power upgrade, and not candidate for stroker. Outside of what has already been guessed you've contributed nothing substantive.


Since zero mention of top-end work then presume zero top-end work.



If you consider this or any other reply to be garbage, then consider the input given together with the old GIGO Rule.


As offered by previous reply it's going to be 1000% more rewarding for you to google and You-Tube with successive drill-downs to narrow and prioritize goals v. budget.



With nearly no worthwhile input so far I'll recommend a basic Summit rebuilder's all-in-one shortblock package. No forged or hypertuetectic parts needed. If you've never replaced a motorcycle or go-cart piston then I wouldn't learn on a car motor. Give everything to a trustworthy garage. The more parts you feed them yourself the fewer sorry surprises at the end.


Spend $75 on a FSR and watch 50 YouTubes and you can handle the topend re-assembly.



Good luck.
 

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Get the inexpensive summit flat top pistons, I think they're $80/set.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-17351c-30

You'll need to get your stock rods pressed onto the pistons, and need rings:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-133-m139-30


I'd recommend comp 502 cam b/c it won't wear out valve springs and you
can even use stock rocker arms and push rods.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-07-502-8

Stock heads flow well- reuse them with VictorReinz 5898 "thin" head gaskets to boost compression and
Crane valve spring kit.

head gaskets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mah-5898

spring kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-10309-1

Nab
 

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WHAT IS YOUR BUDGET, WHAT DO YOU WANT THE ENGINE TO DO, WHAT IS YOUR SKILL-SET IN ENGINE WORK?

Nobody here can suggest anything other than the most basic engine build until those questions are answered. For a basic rebuild, Blue Wail's reply above is about spot on. But depending on what was turned out of the crank and what was done to the rods, you may need to get different bearings to accommodate. The CC502 is a good cam for an everyday streeter but it (and all other cams) really open up with a good set of heads. If your budget does not allow for the heads and supporting items (rockers, pushrods, lifters can run another $1k+) then the stock gear will work.

What sort of tools do you have? To do this correctly, outside of the normal assortment of tools, you need the following:
- A GOOD torque wrench, probably 2. One that does the higher ft-lbs (50-200+) and another that does the lower in-lbs and lower ft-lbs
- A ring file
- Ring compressor
- A good set of feeler gauges
- A magnetic dial indicator to measure thrust and end-play
- PS Pulley remover / installer
- Harmonic balancer removal/install kit
- Engine hoist
- Engine stand
- Calipers to measure bearings
- Telescoping gauges to measure bore

Provide some details, my friend. You'll get much better info.
 

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IDK guys. You're offering great pointers and parts = goes without saying. But unless some ulterior motive on OP's part to persist in this "vague-to-absent" background and detail, then I read it as lack of overall experience and basic ignorance of this level of wrenching. I'm not saying stupid, just unaware/ignorant. Here I am talking like he's not here lol. But with strong indication of not knowing what he's starting with or where he's going, along with unwillingness to volunteer the goal for the build any more than to "save money", then we run the risk of ending up doing exactly the opposite to him with successive episodes of waste, replacements and actual damage while on his "first try at a rebuild". Hell for all I know he cooda done did 20 motors, but he sure ain't letting on, and insists on avoiding every chance to add intel to help himself.


My replies have displayed (as much for future fellas in similar situation as the OP here) the mental gyrations required with replies to dream up even the roughest help when there ain't worthwhile details offered up first. I just fear him buying a buncha stuff and then realizing he was supposed to buy a buncha different stuff. And mebbee fubars that block in the process. Hooking up with a shop with creds will have the work done months sooner, tons of fewer tools bought, and potentially thousands less $ spent than if he attempts this himself - even if just half the above ends up the case.


Hey OP just thought, - post up the workorder build sheet on your block work. That'll provide the info missing till now.
 

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Hang in there OP. I was 15 years old when I started posting here back in 2001 and I didn't have much automotive knowledge at the time. I asked a lot of questions which probably irritated some senior members but there is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and a lot of people who are willing to help. I'm still no expert, but I know my way around under the hood of a vehicle. I still have the same Impala and I have done 2 engine builds, 1 trans swap, and 1 rear end rebuild as well as countless other upgrades and maintenance related work. Much of that success was at least in part due to the knowledge available on this forum.

While this seems like a fun project, I'd recommend having someone else do the work unless you have a friend who is willing to provide a lot of advice and labor in his spare time. Good luck.
 
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