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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Ok, I have educated myself by watching the recommended videos.


I was told not to move the differential after the pin is out: is this because the spider gears will fall out of place? Can I lower the side I'm not working on (I left its wheel on) to "lock" it, while I wrestle with the axle seal and bearing? When I pulled the diff cover the pin and locking bolt were perfectly positioned for removal - the left wheel is still on the ground - I was just going to leave the car that way until it came time for refilling the pumpkin. I didn't remove the locking bolt, pin, and c clips until I watched the videos, since I didn't want to screw anything up.


There was no gasket on my old diff cover, or rather I should say, it was glued on with some sort of silicone gasket compound. I bought a Felpro gasket - can I use it dry or do I need gasket compound as well? One of the videos said to torque to 30ft # if using a paper gasket.



What do you recommend for refilling the pumpkin? I don't race, or normally even drive much over 70mph. My trips are mostly interstate commutes between Pendleton and Portland OR, a round trip of around 500 miles, with city driving in Portland.


Thanks again, friend!


Veronica
 

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If you dont have limited slip and start spinning stuff around, yes the small gears could get out of place.
After you push the axle in, remove c locks, slide axle back, simply put the cross shaft back in place, put the lock screw in a couple threads.
That way it is imposible to get into trouble.

While i am a big synthetic guy, Any quality GL5 lube will be fine for you.
If you have limited slip, you may need additive as well.
That said, at your mileage if you do have, it might work better with none


The gasket, there are as many opinions as cars
I would just put a smear of silicon sealer on two fingers and rub the gasket between them.
Just enough sealer so the gasket is shiny, no more.

30 pounds on a 5/16 regular grade fastener is insane!!

18 max, but 13-15 would be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, I had to get new axles (it was cheaper to have the $60 ones Fed-Exed from Rock Auto then to get ones locally in a week. I needed the rig by tomorrow. Everything is back together except putting the heat shield back in and filling with fluid. Really quite an easy job, especially when you know what to expect AND borrow the correct tools. Man was that bearing puller fun AND effective. Now I get to do a strut assembly and bearing on my 98 Subaru Forester. I am not paying anyone $900 to put in a pair of strut assemblies and one axle bearing! Never done this either, but I enjoy learning new things.

Thank you all for your input. I'm sure I would have made ghastly mistakes otherwise....

Veronica
 

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My bearing puller was a long 3/4 inch steel tube. I put it in one side and tapped the bearing out the other. My differential was out, and it may not have worked with the differential in the housing without curving the tube.

It gives you a good feeling to accomplish something that most people will not even attempt.

The struts are probably easier than the axles. You do need an alignment after replacing them. The lower bolts allow for some camber adjustment, and the toe will change.
 

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I've been happy with the Moser's I picked up last summer.
-Brian
 

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The Moser axles are far superior to the ones at Rockauto.com. I have the specs to order them. The ones on Rockauto.com are made in India, or China. Moser are made in the US.
 

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What happened that they failed in 3 years ?

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ah, my dear friend Fred! Yes, I checked out Moser, but I have opted for the affordable Rockauto axles. I am f**ked right now in having lost most of my tools in a divorce. Why would I, a woman, want tools, eh? Anyway. I am reduced to using a mechanic and I have ordered the Dorman axles from Rockauto. It sucks being old, on Social Security, and without tools. But, the war wagon will survive! Thank you. So much.

Miss V
 

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You do not need to buy a lot of tools. You can "borrow" the big ones from Autozone, a hammer and a medium size set of sockets. You need new bearings and seals.
 

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You do not need to buy a lot of tools. You can "borrow" the big ones from Autozone, a hammer and a medium size set of sockets. You need new bearings and seals.
Quick recap for Fred:
in having lost most of my tools in a divorce.
old, on Social Security, and without tools.
from the 103 pound, 68 yr old woman(2020)
Really quite an easy job, especially when you know what to expect AND borrow the correct tools. Man was that bearing puller fun AND effective.
VMaganese has "been there done that" in 2019. I respect her decision especially if she has to change axles outside in winter in Eastern Oregon.

What happened that they failed in 3 years ?
What I will "second guess" on is this. If the last bearings went in properly there may be damage to the "rear end" and a replacement "rear end" might be cheaper than grinding down a third set of axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
OK, OK. I was just being a whiny little baby. It's cold outside and I've gotten lazy and soft in my old age. I do have an excellent mechanic in Pendleton, OR, and I will ask him about the rear end. I wonder if the bearings I got at NAPA were just crap. The poor car sat for a year, I wonder if some rust formed on the bearing surface? Fred, I would like the specs on ordering from Moser. If this set of Dormans craps out on me too soon I will get the good ones and re-do the job myself. I actually have a flat concrete slab to work on now, a floor jack and jack stands, so, seriously, I l had no excuse.:(
 

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Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Document
 

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Don't forget to add 10bolt 8.5" GM to the "Type of Rear End" line so they know it needs c-clip grooves.

-Brian
 
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