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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 95 has a really high rpm at idle. And at a stop, I have to press the brake down a little more than usual to keep her still ? I checked the OHM's on my idle air control valve and it seems like it is shorted out, but wanna make sure on here first as these valve's are pretty pricey ! There are 4 prom leads on the valve to check Ohm's, and when measuring the pairs, (a,b,c,d) should have a reading of 40-80 ohms. I have 00.7 on my C, D set of leads on the valve. Can anyone confirm if this is indeed my problem ?
 

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Not sure on the value that you are supposed to get I will dig in the manual and find it, have you tried this http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#iac_reset yet, maybe worth a try and see if it has any affect on it. AS well as pulling the IAC and cleaning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got my ohm measurement readings from my Chilton manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One more thing I can't believe I forgot to mention ! While the car is on and running (parked), if I take off the inlet elbow (on the throttle body), the car instantly cuts out (turns off) !?? Anyone ever hear of this happening ?:confused:
 

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Taking the intake elbow off as its running will cause the car to die; you took the wind right outta the MAF. It will run W/O the MAF,(using the limp home SD table we got as a backup), but it must be disconnected from the engine harness before attempting a start-up.

On the IAC, I agree with 94MI9C1, all the IAC valves I've tested that were good, read between 40-80 ohms (closer to 40 in my experience), with the readings very close between both pair of terminals,
IE:
set A + B, 50 ohms
set C + D, 58 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE : Found the problem ! It was the IAC Valve. Bought a new one, swapped it out, runs smooth and GREAT !!! Thanx for all those that chimed in for support !:)
 
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