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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, since this is likely a weatherstripping, door alignment problem, it seemed exterior, but it could also go in interior because it is a distraction to nice drives, especially knowing that my '96 Caprice 5.7 L was suppose to be GM's answer to BMW's 5-7 series sports sedans. I have finally dispelled the notion that I need to hear outside wind noise to know I am driving at freeway/ open road speeds. This was one of the last 96's that roled off the line, bought by my father in early '97. I have put up with it since I inherited the car in late 2001.

I have looked at the weatherstripping along the door and can see nothing unusual compared to the passenger side front door, which has no wind noise.

It seems that the noise is coming from where the door is closest to the edge of the dash, where the door frame just starts to angle back.

The door looks aligned properly with the hood and seems to have the same roof spacing as on the passenger side door.

Thanks
 

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Two things I can think of...1. Is there a gap at the bottom of the run channel behind the mirror, 2. Does the lower tubular door seal (relative) overlap the upper/top (flat) seal at its edge? The flat seal should tuck in behind the lower seal. Beyond that, the door could be slightly warped.
 

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Two things I can think of...1. Is there a gap at the bottom of the run channel behind the mirror, 2. Does the lower tubular door seal (relative) overlap the upper/top (flat) seal at its edge? The flat seal should tuck in behind the lower seal. Beyond that, the door could be slightly warped.
Was thinking the same, or maybe air is entering the front of the trim
 

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Yeah I have the same issue with both FT doors on my current ride, as well as the 9C1 I had before this one.

I replaced the door opening weather stripping, on all 4 doors, and that didn't help.

My weather stripping at the top of the roofline that runs front to back for both doors is in good shape, but a little distorted around the rear view mirror location.

I researched the possibility of new stripping, and I found that only the RH one is still available.

I could care less about that side, so I didn't buy it.

Another member told me when he had his car painted the body guys tweaked the door a little to get the fit a little tighter, and his wind noise went away.
 

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here is a way to check for leaks.

go to the car wash

leave car running with the a/c on. make sure its on reguler ac not max.

close the doors and get the bubble brush and use it.

wait for the brush to get all soapy and then run it along all the door seals or just effected area.

let car set for a minute. look for large bubbles forming. this is where your leak is.

if you have ever had the door popped because you locked you keys in the car this will cause your leak. they will put a wedge in the top door seal and pry the top door frame back. you wont notice it. but it will cause a leak. to fix this you will need to roll down the window(make sure you do this or else) open the door and put your knee in the middle of the door. then pull in on the top door frame. door it until you have no more bubbles come out of the door.
 

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I have this same problem on my front DS door. In my case, I think the problem is in the tracks. My back windows both go up crooked and get stuck if I roll them down and back up, and I have to lift them up by hand to straighten them out. I'm sure the guides are broken, I just haven't taken the time to fix them. (http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=232364) I used to think weather stripping for the front door, but realized a couple of weeks ago that it is the same problem, just very minimal. The best way I've found to fix it (without actually fixing it - yet) is to roll the window ALMOST all the way up (about 1/8" - 1/4" gap showing), then push up on the front edge of the window to straighten it out. Then I can finish closing it with the switch and it won't be noisy. It's been going on for 2 years now, and I've broken two switches trying to jiggle it to just the right spot. With this technique, maybe I can keep the switch long enough to actually fix the problem.
 

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here is a way to check for leaks.

go to the car wash

leave car running with the a/c on. make sure its on reguler ac not max.

close the doors and get the bubble brush and use it.

wait for the brush to get all soapy and then run it along all the door seals or just effected area.

let car set for a minute. look for large bubbles forming. this is where your leak is.

[SNIP]

Good advice, but I'd highly recommend NOT using the brush at the car was for this procedure.

Everyone and their brother uses those brushes on their tires, and they are loaded with gravel & road debris.

Mix up a batch of Zaino soap (Or equivalent) at the house instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey, great advice guys. Glad I'm not the only one suffering. Luckly, never had door popped, and I think my dad when he had it, still had On star, so I think he got it opened remotely once that way. I got some pictures of what I think it is when I looked real closely and compared the DS and PS doors, unfortunately, the web guru tells me that the 1.5 meg files/pict. are too big for the 193 kbit limit. So, until I know more about uploading some pictures, I will try to describe what I found.

I think the culpret is a black gasket type piece that sits just behind the top hinge bolt. It seems that it should be perpendicular to the length of the car, and the inside corner nearest the hood/windshield has been bent back toward the outside of the fender,causing an opening into the windshield/ hood area.

When I open the hood and shine a flashlight positioned at the hood hinge back toward the door, with the door open, in the dark, I can see some light shining through. How I can get that corner of that gasket back straightened is another question. I may try some duct tape on the opening created from the door side to make sure that is the problem/ temp. solution.

Also, I noticed that the rubber strip on the bottom of the door is about 2 in. back from the front edge of the door on the DS and only about 1/2 in back on the passenger side. Does anyone know if those are suppose to be even?

Cruiser Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry it has taken so long to reply, as this thread may be too old to be viewed more. But after the last post, I went out and compared the two doors' "gaskets" by the top hinges and my car must have been made on a Friday, because they look totally different, the way that they are placed around the hood and the back of the windshield/fender molding. Also when checking the lower black rubber strip along the bottom of the door, the pass. side strip seems to be about 1/2" away from the front bottom edge of the door, while the back edge is about 1 1/2" away from its front edge. I wonder if that could have an effect on the wind noise?

Well, if I don't learn more in the next few days, I will try the soap/air conditioning trick in the next couple of weeks and see if I can get this figured out.

Thanks for all the input guys.
 

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Same here. Both of my doors do it. While I had my car tore down for paint I replaced all of the weatherstriping upon reassembly and it still makes noise at hwy speeds?
 

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I have the same problem with my passenger side front. As one member said it seems to be coming from the part closest to the windsheild where it starts to angle.

Im going to try some weather stripping and see if that helps. It could also be a misalignment of the interior plastic molding or improper positioning of the rearview mirror. going to try to run some tests and ill let you guys know what i find but its most perplexing!
 

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Also the molding on the side that makes the noise is visibly different from the other side, its has a much larger gap. I also looked on my dad's fleetwood which doesnt have this problem and the gaps are much thinner as they are on my driver side front. I tried inserting a dowell underneath to close the gap but it didnt do the trick unfortunately. The gap closed quite a bit but the noise continued.
 

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Check your run channel for a gap at the bottom behind the mirror.
 

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Also the molding on the side that makes the noise is visibly different from the other side, its has a much larger gap. I also looked on my dad's fleetwood which doesnt have this problem and the gaps are much thinner as they are on my driver side front. I tried inserting a dowell underneath to close the gap but it didnt do the trick unfortunately. The gap closed quite a bit but the noise continued.
I knew I saw something on these types of issues before and found some video's that I think will be very helpful to you guys. They specifically talk about Wind Noise and how to fix it.

It is a Buick Know How Video, but whether you have a Buick or a Chevy....a Wagon or a Sedan, I think the concepts/parts are the same on all. Check about 3:00 into the first video and see if that helps you find/fix the issue. It then goes into a Part 2 video. Good Luck.

 

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Also the molding on the side that makes the noise is visibly different from the other side, its has a much larger gap. I also looked on my dad's fleetwood which doesnt have this problem and the gaps are much thinner as they are on my driver side front. I tried inserting a dowell underneath to close the gap but it didnt do the trick unfortunately. The gap closed quite a bit but the noise continued.
my 1996 the noise was from the weather strip in the door latch area of the door. I added some foam stick on strips to raise this and now it seals the door so it is alot quieter. I also had the noise like you say that sounds like it is from the top forward door area. this fixed to wind noise.

I put some silicone grease on the door rubber and closed it a few times then looked at how the grease got on the vehicle frame to see if it was not touching ...the stricker area was not touching very much.
 

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I'm a wagon guy and have 94s and 96s and noticed that the 94 is much quieter wind noise wise in spite of 250k miles vs. my much nicer 96. I've found that the window moves away from the inner fuzzy weatherstrip that is along the bottom of the glass. If I put the window all the way up and then tap the switch to lower the window down slightly, my wind noise is decreased at 50+ mph. The door flexes when the window tops out and the bottom of the glass moves out and away from the weather strip. My 94 door does not flex like this and that along with the smaller pedestal mounted 94 mirror has less wind noise. I added some weatherstrip to hold the fuzzy strip out against the glass when its up and this helped but the window down about an 1/8 an inch gives a sweet spot where the wind noise is less and the window is still sealed against the rest of the weatherstrip. I showed this trick to a buddy who has a 95 (same mirror as 96) and it worked for him too.

I tried adding extra weatherstrip around the door and mirror and nothing had as big an effect as lowering the window slightly. There is a lip the the top of the door panel that can be tweaked to have the weather strip attached to it press more on the glass and that helps but it make the door panel harder to put back on.

The window down slightly may not be your solution but it is easy and cheap to try.

Good luck, Jon
 

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1996 Caprice 9c1, 2018 Ram Laramie CC 4x4 EcoDiesel , '03 Ram 3500 Laramie Sport QC 4x4 Cummins
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I'm not sure where I read this trick, it may have been on the Ram/Cummins forum since we tend to make a bit more noise. The person said they took vacuum hose that fit inside the weather stripping and ran it all the way around the door and fixed the issue for him. I was going to try it to my '96 since it has the same noise most of you are describing, but ran out of summer season, so it will go on my long list of winter to-do's. When I picked my car up in AZ for the drive home to AK, I was disappointed in how much road/air noise the car had. The car was near new with the original tires. The only thing I can think was the little old lady never got the car up to hwy speeds, or she was hard of hearing. This is by far the noisiest B body I've owned.
 

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Smoke generator

I checked with a friend of mine who owns a body shop...he said they use a smoke generator inside the car to find leaks. He said they can be purchased on line.
 

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Had similar problem on passenger side front door. Headers, 3-inch exhaust and ultraflows. No more wind noise.
 
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