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How do I increase horse power...I put a k&n intake on it....thinking about. Chip tune...is pcm for less a good choice...94 caprice...
 

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We don't have "chips." You have a PCM. There are many threads about increasing horsepower here. Installing a K & N CAI isn't necessarily going to gain much if any. Get your wallet out and start at the back, Catback, gears, correct headers, PCM tune. Spend some time reading the threads. Before you start, make sure everything is in good condition stock. Plugs, wires, properly functioning Opti vent harness, wiring and grounds good. Good luck.
 

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I would say along with the filter to do a TB airfoil, and aluminum elbow. That is simple stuff. From there progress to headers and gears which are more costly. After the headers and or gears get a tune. I suggest Solomon.
 

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Airfoils and aluminum elbows are simple and also ineffective. Do not do headers without first doing the Catback. There are very good reliable posts from people who have been here a long time and have proven results. There is no cheap route to more power with these cars. The best way to start is get your car into excellent stock shape. That is worth some power in itself. Take advice from those guys.
If you have had all those ball joint failures, you already have some work to do before you worry about more power.
 

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Airfoils and aluminum elbows are simple and also ineffective. Do not do headers without first doing the Catback. There are very good reliable posts from people who have been here a long time and have proven results. There is no cheap route to more power with these cars. The best way to start is get your car into excellent stock shape. That is worth some power in itself. Take advice from those guys.
If you have had all those ball joint failures, you already have some work to do before you worry about more power.



I doubt they are ineffective. They may not make big gains but cleaning up the airflow before the intake is never a bad idea. If you can't get the airflow in smoothly you can't get it out. One thing builds on another. Take this from someone that knows something about aero and fluid dynamics.
 

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For their cost, the aluminum elbow and airfoil are incredibly ineffective. The $125 that would be spent on those two items could be better spent towards something else.
 

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For their cost, the aluminum elbow and airfoil are incredibly ineffective. The $125 that would be spent on those two items could be better spent towards something else.



Please explain how they are ineffective? And if you are paying $125 you are out of your mind.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/LT1-LT4-Aluminum-Intake-Elbow-with-Throttle-Body-Splitter-Kit-NITROUS-PORT-an/251825905976?hash=item3aa1fe6138:rk:1:pf:0


Smoothing out the airflow is never a bad thing. Take a look inside a stock rubber Elbow and see all the cavities that disturb airfow at a critical point right before the TB. My car with CAI(filter,straight tube, aluminum elbow, airfoil, coolant bypass mod) headers and a tune made 295hp at the wheels with a header gasket leak. Which mean over 300hp if not for the leak. Now stock should be 210-225 at the wheel. Soare you going to try and tell me headers and a tune got me 75+hp alone and that the CAI intake did nothing? And that the elbow and airfoil are ineffective? Whatever that means.
 

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Stock LT1's are good for 240-255 RWHP (A4).

Airfoil has been dyno proven to give you 0-2 horsepower.

Otherwise stock LT1: CAI is good for about 10 horsepower.

Most of your gain was from the tune and the headers. The stock manifolds in particular were very restrictive and there's a lot of corked-up power in the PCM.

Soare you going to try and tell me (SNIP) that the elbow and airfoil are ineffective?
 

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Stock LT1's are good for 240-255 RWHP (A4).

Airfoil has been dyno proven to give you 0-2 horsepower.

Otherwise stock LT1: CAI is good for about 10 horsepower.

Most of your gain was from the tune and the headers. The stock manifolds in particular were very restrictive and there's a lot of corked-up power in the PCM.



You aren't actually trying to say you only lose 5-20 hp through driveline lose are you? Most everyone agrees it is 14-20%. The stock B-D body cars were stock at 260hp at the crank. And that is a New engine not one with over 100K miles like mine. Your figures really are suspect. First you said those parts were $125 which is twice what they cost. And if they make any hp they are not ineffective. No one ever said they made tons of hp. But any and all helps. Also with a tune they do take it into consideration so it makes a difference. And if it didn't matter then why do aftermarket TB's have airfoils built in? And I might add that while it might not make much difference on a stock engine that as you add hp the benefits add up. The more air the engine injests the more it should help. And as far as the elbow how many racers do you see running a stock rubber elbow?
 

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You aren't actually trying to say you only lose 5-20 hp through driveline lose are you? Most everyone agrees it is 14-20%. The stock B-D body cars were stock at 260hp at the crank. And that is a New engine not one with over 100K miles like mine.
They were underrated at the factory. This is a fairly well known thing.

Stock 93 LT1 6-speed vette. 266 RWHP

Camaro M6 - 292

Dead stock Impala SS - 237 RWHP

There are loads on dyno runs and sheets on bone-stock LT1's putting down exactly what I said

First you said those parts were $125 which is twice what they cost.
No, I did not say that. Please check yourself.

And if they make any hp they are not ineffective. No one ever said they made tons of hp. But any and all helps.
1-10 horsepower will never be felt on the street. Ever. Plus, that level of HP gain can easily be negated by running on the dyno with poor air supply, hotter air temps, different gas station, etc. It's within the margin of error. You'd get almost the exact same performance leap from 10 horsepower by taking off all your clothes and taking a huge dump before you run the 1/4 - from the weight savings.

And if it didn't matter then why do aftermarket TB's have airfoils built in?
Once you get into heads, cam, intake, etc - the airflow does make a difference. On an otherwise stock car, its a waste of money. But it's YOUR money - so do whatever you want.

And as far as the elbow how many racers do you see running a stock rubber elbow?
I must have missed the sentence where the OP stated they were building a race engine.... Oh wait... (And any HP gain from running a smooth aluminum elbow will be eliminated by the heat that's now being absorbed by the metal. But hey - they look cool, so there's that...)

OP needs to start with a search on "first mods for horsepower". Then they need to check their budget. Then their skill at swinging a wrench. Then make the decision based on data, and not marketing. My suggestion is to start with having the injectors cleaned, put on headers and exhaust, and then tune it. Done right, it's sub $1k and will be immediately felt on the street. Then do a gear change - 3.73 - for a night-and-day difference in performance. Then decide how far down the rabbit hole you want to go from there.

We are done here.
 

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Some things work, but don't give a big enough bang for the buck to be considered worth it.

Meanwhile, some other things that should work, have a reputation for not giving a damn about customer satisfaction, or even blaming the customer after the customer demonstrably proves that the tune actually made the car run WORSE.

Personally, I doubt I'd ever buy a TB airfoil, but I'm at least 101% certain I'd buy a TB airfoil before I allowed myself to buy a reprogrammed pcm from Keith.

TB airfoils and pcmperformance.com both have a much better rep than Keith.
 

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They were underrated at the factory. This is a fairly well known thing.

Stock 93 LT1 6-speed vette. 266 RWHP

Camaro M6 - 292

Dead stock Impala SS - 237 RWHP

There are loads on dyno runs and sheets on bone-stock LT1's putting down exactly what I said
266 hp on a manual trans is just under 12% so close to being correct.


The Camaro listed states "Close to stock" with "The only mods that it has is full exhaust (pace setter LT's, ORY, magnaflow cat back) K&N CAI, and an electric water pump." "It has three minor mods (exhaust, CAI, EWP)
Stock: heads, cam, rockers, intake, throttle body (no air foil), pullies, FPR, PCM/Tune, clutch, flywheel, trans, driveshaft, Rear end and so on." so hardly stock.



Sorry can't believe a stock Iron head B-body put down 237HP. That is just 23 hp less than at the crank which is about 9% with an auto no manual like the other 2 cars you listed which would have lower percentages because of having a manual.


Drivetrain Power Loss - The 15% "Rule"- Modified Magazine



No, I did not say that. Please check yourself.


My mistake that was Threeimpalas



1-10 horsepower will never be felt on the street. Ever. Plus, that level of HP gain can easily be negated by running on the dyno with poor air supply, hotter air temps, different gas station, etc. It's within the margin of error. You'd get almost the exact same performance leap from 10 horsepower by taking off all your clothes and taking a huge dump before you run the 1/4 - from the weight savings.

Never said it would be felt by itself. Just that every bit adds up. You might not notice losing 10 lbs off your car. But if you do multiple things all losing 10lbs then yes you will notice it.



Once you get into heads, cam, intake, etc - the airflow does make a difference. On an otherwise stock car, its a waste of money. But it's YOUR money - so do whatever you want.

Which is exactly my point. You start with the easy stuff and it all adds up and as you add more mods they build off each other. Not saying it is a magic bullet just that it is a good start that will help in the end.



I must have missed the sentence where the OP stated they were building a race engine.... Oh wait... (And any HP gain from running a smooth aluminum elbow will be eliminated by the heat that's now being absorbed by the metal. But hey - they look cool, so there's that...)

I didn't start off building what I have. But here I am with something that should be between 350-400 RWHP.
 

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Sorry can't believe a stock Iron head B-body put down 237HP.
Dont really care what you believe or what you don't - so have at it.

Happy Thanksgiving
 

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Here we go again, same old Shyt again. We just went through something like this and lost a Friend. (Mike) This is a "To each their own" sort of deal. Lets be more civil and talk politics.
Stickman, was that your 4X4 hearse?

Happy Thanksgiving all

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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".....be more civil and talk politics."


Good one Mark. Talk about the epitome of an oxymoron. lol Garr own teed not never noway gonna happen with the seething divisive rhetoric and posturing currently touted by 2 branches of our government. But Happy Thanksgiving outta be something the whole tribally divided country can at least agree on eh.


Back on the car front, I like to pretend the mincing here is just good clean Socratic debate. However, from driving B/C/D/E fat heavy bodies the past 1/2 century I've held fast in my conviction it's much better return focusing on driveline and suspension to actually transfer power onto the road v. the cheapest way to eek out 1-5% more hp to dragrace 2 seconds faster to the next stoplight.

As you say to each his own.
 

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Here we go again, same old Shyt again. We just went through something like this and lost a Friend. (Mike) This is a "To each their own" sort of deal. Lets be more civil and talk politics.
Stickman, was that your 4X4 hearse?

Happy Thanksgiving all

Mark: Snowman-33

I do not own a 4x4 hearse no. That is not to say I am against it. I wouldn't convert either of mine as they are to good for street cars and tooling around. Now we are converting Sarah's Buick Box body hearse to a carb'd LT1.
 

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Back on the car front, I like to pretend the mincing here is just good clean Socratic debate. However, from driving B/C/D/E fat heavy bodies the past 1/2 century I've held fast in my conviction it's much better return focusing on driveline and suspension to actually transfer power onto the road v. the cheapest way to eek out 1-5% more hp to dragrace 2 seconds faster to the next stoplight.

As you say to each his own.

I don't see why you can't work on all fronts. I am very pleased with my driveline set up with a Pro Race trans and 9.5 inch 14 bolt with 4.10 gears and a billet TruTrac helix gear diff. Now I only have less than 500 miles on the new engine and have yet to get anywhere near WOT but it has chirped the tires 1st to 2nd atleast 3 times at part throttle. As for suspension it's just lowered with UMI uppers and lowers. But not much else I can do to make this car handle. It's big heavy and tall.
 

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Top 10 list of HP mods to NOT get:

1. Hooker headers
2. Electric supercharger
3. Hypertech
4. AIT plugin chip or JET chip
5. Air Foil
6. Aluminum elbow
7.
8.
9.
10.

Add to list...
 

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lol
7. Granatelli MAF?
8. LT-4 knock module
9. Vette servo
 
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