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20. fuel magnetizer?
 

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How could I forget?
Granatelli should be #1 !

Nab
 

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I do not own a 4x4 hearse no. That is not to say I am against it. I wouldn't convert either of mine as they are to good for street cars and tooling around. Now we are converting Sarah's Buick Box body hearse to a carb'd LT1.
There was a recent post with a picture of a 4X4 hearse. It just sort of haunted me. It made me think of you.

Mark: Snowman33
 

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Top 10 list of HP mods to NOT get:

1. Hooker headers
2. Electric supercharger
3. Hypertech
4. AIT plugin chip or JET chip
5. Air Foil
6. Aluminum elbow
7.
8.
9.
10.

Add to list...

And yet I have the Hooker headers, air foil and aluminum elbow, plus a tune and made 295 hp at the wheels with an exhaust leak. Not because of the headers but because the previous owner decided to only put in half the bolts.
 

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That's exactly why they are on the list-Hookers are such a pain to install and maintain.
 

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That's exactly why they are on the list-Hookers are such a pain to install and maintain.

No it all has to do with the previous owner doing things half assed. That is just one of many things I have had to correct. I have no problems with them.
 

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@Blue Wail - what air intake set-up do you recommend? I’ve used several (factory + k&n, twin snorkels, and aluminum elbow). the aluminum elbow has fit the best and has caused a lot less pcm code drama than other aftermarket. RAISS or go home???
 

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@Blue Wail - what air intake set-up do you recommend? I’ve used several (factory + k&n, twin snorkels, and aluminum elbow). the aluminum elbow has fit the best and has caused a lot less pcm code drama than other aftermarket. RAISS or go home???
Anything metal will take longer to heat up than rubber or plastic, but it will hold on to that heat for far longer. Once its warm, you will have a heater directly in-line with your intake air, and that heater is far hotter than ambient air outside your engine bay. Underhood temps can exceed 180 degrees in the summer and 190+ isn't unheard of. I have heard "100 degrees above ambient" is the norm. All of that heat is being absorbed by the metal intake elbow and transferred to your a/f mix. But hey - some folks say they look cool. For reference, drop the temp by 11 degrees and increase fuel density by 1%. Under the absolute worst conditions, you'd be looking at a 7% +/- gain or loss - so either way, its not a massive factor.

I have a RAISS and the air-filter pan has been lined with gold heat-reflecting material on the engine-side. My intake air is rarely above outside ambient. (Here in Atlanta, that ambient air can be 120 degrees +/- down near the asphalt). If you get one of the systems that has a heatshield and places the intake inlet over near the PCM and behind the headlight, you're doing it right. My RAISS was part of the car when I bought it but I've had thoughts about moving the intake back behind the headlight with a proper shield. The main reason for this is that last summer my filter got so soaked during a crazy-heavy rainstorm on my way home that the car started cutting out due to the water getting on the MAF.
 

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You aren't actually trying to say you only lose 5-20 hp through driveline lose are you? Most everyone agrees it is 14-20%. The stock B-D body cars were stock at 260hp at the crank. And that is a New engine not one with over 100K miles like mine. Your figures really are suspect. First you said those parts were $125 which is twice what they cost. And if they make any hp they are not ineffective. No one ever said they made tons of hp. But any and all helps. Also with a tune they do take it into consideration so it makes a difference. And if it didn't matter then why do aftermarket TB's have airfoils built in? And I might add that while it might not make much difference on a stock engine that as you add hp the benefits add up. The more air the engine injests the more it should help. And as far as the elbow how many racers do you see running a stock rubber elbow?
Dyno numbers are meaningless without a baseline. You can strap your car to 5 different machines and you'll get 5 different readings. That's just how it works. Every dyno reads differently. The correct thing to do would have been to get a stock baseline pull, then pulls after every modification. LOL there's cars with more substantial mods than your bolt-ons that haven't cracked 300rwhp.
 
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