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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Chevy Impala SS Forum > 91-96 Impala/B-body > Suspension > Stickied: Engine Bay Brace and Frame Brace Discussion
Pictures asked for in that thread...
of Fleetwood oem welded rear frame brace as comparison with...
1994 rear frame brace fabricated for boxed SVI Impala SS and with "welded under tension" installation. brace was made with a.135" wall thickness steel as is the Fleetwood oem frame. All other B-bodies 94-96 use thinner oem frames.
From 1994... "homemade" front frame brace and 1 1/2" solid sway bar.
 

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Rear frame joiner, welded - check. Front bar frame joiner, optimally welded - check.

What say the benefit of a pipe welded at the very front across the frame rails (aka Cutlass bar)?

And are there pics of the preferred boxing or placement of welded barstock to treat the frame? Without separating from the body, that is?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The slow witted and bal less need not attend

The pictures of the frame gussets are gone with the crash, but really just imagine 1/4" thick pieces, maybe 2"X 4.5", measure twice, cut once. Any random weld points will do inside the C-channel, just don't block the access for the body bushings. 6-8 per side, no body lift required. OEM frame is like a 8 foot 2 X 4 bent over a saw horse, very easy to bend, not very rigid for it's 8 feet. Just like the C channel section of the frame. Weld in the pieces and the leverage point goes from 8 feet to <one foot. Bending now an order of magnitude greater;takes 2 hours, 90+% of the gain from a custom $6000 (then) frame for 1% the cost,time and effort. I will riff on the horn braces later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Cutlass bar, F body brace, goofy nuclear hardening

"What say the benefit of a pipe welded at the very front across the frame rails (aka Cutlass bar)?"
The F-body brace is Quote=96 Black; "a pipe welded at the very front across the frame rails"....
... if it's not installed by the cognitively impaired.
Given that the frame gusseting illustrates the point of diminishing returns so nicely, compare any hypothetical horn or Cutlass brace with the F-body brace actually installed correctly for a B-body (which the B does not have the boxed frame of an F-body SO you can not install the brace in a B like it did). B-body guys have to create the boxed frame, which can not be done with bolting, glueing or using rubber bands. Simple no? AND No it's also not ok to install it so it's contacting the lower radiator hose because the radiator is bolted to the body and any contact vibration/movement against the frame WILL cause the truly goofy plastic radiator to eventually fail. Expensive, inconvenient and Justice for the impaired. The goofy warning on the Pro-Touring web site about hollow sway bars not fitting is obviously wrong because the equally goofy "for cosmetics" Hotchkis 1 7/16" HOLLOW sway bar fits fine no matter how it's installed. MY private messages indicate it's the Hellwig hollow sway that does not fit if you try to just bolt on the brace. No matter, the Hellwig easily fits when the brace is being properly (for a B) installed..
As the picture below shows (thanks to my daughter) no one would also need a Cutlass bar, G bar or frame horns. Done as the picture shows it's as nuclear hardened a front frame can or should be done. PS done as shown the B rides smoother, with fewer rattles, vibrations and suspension harshness, handles and brakes better too. Fools should keep their ignorant opinions to themselves.
 

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