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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to purchase an extended arm set.
Because;
1.The axle is not quite centered left to right,(About 1/2 inch as measured from fender to tire.) and adjustable uppers will cure this.
2. As the car is lowered, I rub slightly with two adults in the rear. centering the wheel in the well will cure this.

However. Which to buy? It seems the METCO is a higher quality and you can adjust the uppers with out removal. BUT METCO moves the wheels 3/4 back. I think this is too far and the wheel will perhaps be then favoring the rear of the well.
Hotchkis is only 1/2 back but their arms don't seem to be as good a quality.

any help out there from all you experienced B Body owners????
Thanks. :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter #2
metco hands down. 3/4 is not to much. these l c a `s are BEEFY !
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hotchkis moves the axle only 1/2" so you won't need an extended driveshaft which is a must for metco's.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
METCO says that a extended drive shaft is not required.
Hey George SS;
When you installed the METCO arm set you said that the 3/4 is not too much, did you have to replace your Drive shaft? If so what one did you use?
I have a Borla Cat back. I am also concerned that moving the axle back 3/4 may cause trouble with the tail pipes since I have already lowered the car with Eibach springs (about 1.5 inch drop). any help here? :confused:
Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Couple notes :

1. If you value your tranny tailshaft, you need the extended driveshaft with the Metcos.

2. The adjustable arms will NOT fix the axle being off side-to-side.

3. Centering the axle (front to back) probably won't fix the issue of rubbing with a lotta weight in the car. You're better off with airbags in back (the $65 Airlift ones from Summit that you inflate thru valves you can mount behind the license plate will work fine here).
 
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Discussion Starter #6
The tire clearance issue will probably get worse when you move the axle back, the cut out in the sheetmetal isn't centered over the wheelwell in the frame, but the axle is centered in its spot in the frame. there was a problem where one side of the axle wasn't centered in the frame, but if you look at every 93 up B-ody out there with stock control arms, you will notice that the tire and sheetmetal cutout are not centered, its the sheetmetal though, moving it back may cause clearance issues on the inside edge of your rubber.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I have the METCO's and the 3/4-inch longer is perfect. I don't think 1/2-inch is enough. I also have the Borla exhaust and there is no problem there either.

I do have the extended driveshaft. Not sure if it's actually needed, but I got it because it's also good for a few HP (lighter rotational inertia).
-Tim
 
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Discussion Starter #8
OK
This helps alot! Looks like I will go with METCO and a extended drive shaft. Any suggestions on sources. I see one offered by NAISSO.

On the side to side axle adjustment;
Funny. I have a triangulated 4 bar installed on a pickup. The triangulated design is similar to that of the B-body right? well the two upper "angled" bars act as the pannard bar of a four link. On my pick up if I shorten one bar and lengthen the other a equal ammount the axle shifts side to side. Just like changing the length of a pannard bar. My rubbing issue is with the outer fender trim on the drivers side. Just a little. I have a ton of clearance on the passenger side.
I just thought the METCO arms would act the same way.

Thanks again for all the help out there!!
S
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Ed Runnion,

I understand that aftermarket Control Arms won't help the side to side problem. Do the aftermarket arms cure the front to back wheel centering issue? My left rear is about 1/2" farther forward than the right. My understanding is that a hole was drilled in the incorrect spot on the axle's LCA bracket.

Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Cruz-lo : issue is that you need to move that axle a LOT in this case. And moving it that much side-side is almost certain to cause bind in the lower bushings. Frame shop work (i.e. bending the frame and/or redrilling holes in the frame to relocate the mounts) is in order to do it the right way.

And no, the LCA will do absolutely nothing to help the frame being mis-stamped. Need to get a good frame shop on that one, so they can fix it AND get everything true/aligned properly afterwards.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Hey guys, what's the advantage of having the extended control arms? Can you use the regular control arms and get the same benefit as the extended control arms?

Thanks,
Mags94SS
 
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Discussion Starter #12
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Mags94SS:
Hey guys, what's the advantage of having the extended control arms? Can you use the regular control arms and get the same benefit as the extended control arms?

Thanks,
Mags94SS
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The only advantage of the extended length arms verses the stock length is cosmetics I believe. The wheels are centered in the wheel wells compared to stock. I really like how it looks centered, but some people want to keep the OEM look.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Disadvantages to using extended-length arms:

1) You have to replace the upper arms as well, which you don't have to do with stock length... this is both usually more expensive and the uppers are a bitch to swap compared to the lowers

2) You increase your wheelbase (albeit slightly). This puts even more of the weight of a front-heavy car in front of the drive axle (though, again, it's very very minor).

3) You may well need to also buy an extended length drive shaft.

Advantages:

1) Your wheels look centered front/back.

That's it.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Another advantage is having a stronger trailing arm. Either stock length or extended will do this, and it's a must if your going to add a better rear sway bar.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Something else to consider: with the Metcos, if you ever install the 5th stainless brake line, it's going to be a VERY tight fit.

I have the Hotchkis Xtend and my Earls 5th line fit tight. But with another 1/4", I'm not certain it would fit.

That being said, if I were to do it again, I'd have gone with the Metcos instead of the Hotchkis.

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #16
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by AutocroSSer:
[QB]Cruz-lo : issue is that you need to move that axle a LOT in this case. And moving it that much side-side is almost certain to cause bind in the lower bushings.

[QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I only need about 1/8 inch change from stock to clear everything. In fact is is possible that by moving the axle rearward 3/4 I wont have to adjust anything.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
1/2 difference side to side is only 1/4 offset. That is to say if say you had 1" clearance on one side and 1/2" on the other, moving the diff 1/4 would equal them both at 3/4.
Have you guys tried loosening and shifting? You will be Very suprised how much movement you can get in stock mounting areas. If the tire is hitting the frame, loosen all 8 susp bolts at ride height and use a come along from the housing sideways to the frame. crank it up tight to us all the slop to your advantange , then tighten the bolts.
If tire to body is the issue you can do the same type shift between the body and frame. Loosen all the mounts and pull it over. They do move alot. Try it, it may help some of you guys with marginal clearance. I have been doing this sort of thing for a long time and it does make a difference. You you change a frame you don't just plunk it down and bolt it up, you must shift it around to be square on the body. Factory, the cars are "close enough" but when you start making mods that move things closer the little diffences make themselves known. Also you can lower or completly get rid of unequal rear toe ( thrust angle) using slop. Next time your car is on an alignment rack look at the rear toe. If they are unequal loosening the lower arms and pulling the high toe back and the low toe forward will ofter result in better numbers.
Regards, Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter #18
The loosening and pulling thing realy does sound correct.

Any way, where do I buy the METCO Arms and extended drive shaft? I'm ready to go!
NAISSO? SUMMIT? JEGS?
I know NAISSO has them but looking for a alternate to compare.
Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I'd advise you to take a look in the Group Purchase area. No Limits and Maco Motorsports seem to take pretty good care of us for aftermarket parts.
 
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