Once you get the system installed with the FPSS inline...go ahead start your car, let it idle for a sec, then go ahead and put you meter across the two leads on the FPSS, if you read open on the meter that means your fuel pressure at idle is not sufficiant..which is kinda good due to you wont be spraying at idle..you will be at WOT, so pull the vacuum line off your Fuel regulator..this will will have fuel rail pressure equal to WOT pressure, Measure contacts on FPSS now..if they are now closed that means you have adequate fuel pressure at wot to make the switch..BUT you will need to make slight adjustmet to it, 1st reason to make switch thur intital "dip" in fuel press, 2nd is to prevent fluttering in case your WOT pressure is BORDERELINE making switch contact..so with you readin closed on meter with vac line pulled of regulator.."back off" switch screw lil by lil till you read "open"..stop, then turn it back down in small increments till you read "closed" on meter, then at that point give it another 1/4 turn or so..this will prevent system deactivation from intital "dip" in FP due to fuel noid opening..this "dip" is maybe a sec..fuel system recover VERY quickly from this, and this 1/4 turn will prevent fluttering..if this is a NX kit..they are jetted 15-20% rich so this 1/4 turn will definitly not put you in lean range or sprayin at too lo of FP..basically when you did the inital adjustment and got it to close..with Vac line off reg (WOT FP~47 PSI) and then did the 1/4 turn adjusment..you basically got the switch dialed in a few psi lower than wot pressure..which will not run you lean..it prolly will be about 43-44 psi. If you have a gauge..it makes the adjustment go a lil better, but this way works, now if you keep having to knock it down more and more..verify your fuel system can keep up with everything your doing this would mean you are dropping too much pressure when system is activated and fuel system is having hard time recovering from fuel solenoid opening.. but you will prolly be aiight
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