How do you get the crankshaft hub back to top dead center?

YES! Great info. I'm relieved I didn't mess anything up with the timing by allowing the hub to move. Why would the Hayne's manual instruct not to allow this to occur? It also advises to remove the distributor and water pump, which I was not about to do and left both in place for this job. I did use the "peace sign" gear puller from AZ. I went to hardware store and bought three 5/16" hex head grade 8 bolts for the puller arms and one 5/16" Allen head bolt grade 8 for the center of the hub bore. The center hub bolt was a little wobbly and it was hard to get it stay centered and steady while cranking on the big black puller bolt with the beveled tip adapter which presses against the Allen head bolt. So that's where I stopped last night and will resume today after some other chores. Is there a special trick to prevent the crankshaft and hub from turning when cranking on the puller bolt to remove the hub sleeve? The manual says to put a screw driver in the teeth of the tranny ring, which is what I tried, but I actually had to use a crow bar wedged against the pavement because a screwdriver was just not right for the proper angle and leverage. Just couldn't get a good bite or place to wedge it against.

Holding crank while pulling damper,
Kinda whatever works.
My flywheel holder is spring loaded so you can hook it on.
Sometimes you can get a bar across two of the damper bolts.

OP

Kent Moore makes a puller/Install tool specific to the LT1. Unfortunately they are exploding wallet $ but on rare occasion you can find one on ebay for decent $. I got mine 20 years ago for $50

Otherwise a standard 3 star puller, with right size bolts in hub, will remove it but as mentioned you need the right size large center bolt to nest into the crank without FU the threads...

Its getting it back on you will need to "improvise" by making the home made install tool. Get a piece, maybe about 9-10" long of all-thread size of crank threads, thrust bearing and 3-4 large grade 8 fender washers and a nut for the center all-thread. Screw the all-thread into crank all the way, place hub on end of crank, then fender washer (2) then thrust bearing then 2 more fender washers then nut to then "draw" the hub back on

NEVER use the crank hub center bolt to try and pull hub back on or you will strip crank threads.

There is likely a video or search this forum for a how to making/using the home made install tool

IMHO I would buy a new "keyed" hub for the stock damper or just buy a new damper with keyed hub. If your current damper is original, its trash

Regarding an original hub, it does not matter what direction its put back on but the one "pointed" spoke will not be on the way it was stock but will not affect the timing otherwise

That is an internet search as I was too lazy to walk down stairs.
The photo is IDENTICAL to my old SnapOn in my box.
The new ones are black and have a plastic handle , for the new "sensitive " mechanics.

OP, if your hub is scored because of seal wear, just get a new one vs using a speedy sleeve band aide. Ideally one that is keyed

If your damper is original its done. look at the rubber it is likely shrunk and cracked.

all thread is threaded rod. It typically comes in 2'-3' length so you would need to cut it down the length needed for the home-made tool. There must be a thread showing this, I have the proper tool so I have not done it on my Impala with the home-made version however I have made one for a Ford I used to have.

Home depot and other hardware stores carry it along with grade 8 fender washers and a thrust bearing and nut.

Do not beat the hub on with a hammer or try and pull it on using hub center bolt.

Those FlaxPlate/flywheel wrenches like Wagon shows are available at Harbor Freight although nowhere near the quality of a SnapOn one but a cheap one will work.

Not sure how you managed to turn damper hub pulling it off but yeah you would want to use some form of stop to keep engine from rotating.

I assume you verified the crank seal is actually leaking as they generally don't. Typically, the WP drive seal is the culprit, but oil migrates to the lowest point making it "look" like front seal leak. You would need to remove WP & Opti and damper only to replace the WP drive seal. You need to use some form of tool like a Sharpie pen cap to install a new one but a tool is needed and available on ebay for around $20.

Two sharpi pictures from the forum:

Here are the parts I used to assemble my installation tool. These were ordered from McMaster-Carr. The threaded rod and nuts are grade 8 equivalent to reduce the chance of stripping the rod.
The thrust bearing reduces the force needed to turn nut. I had the bushing driver on hand, You will need something like the socket in the video. The last picture is me shaking the camera.