Hey amik i'll be shippin out the grill tomorrow(monday). Thanks again. As for the stat, you'll have to drain your cooling system because it sits on top of the water pump. After you drain it, it's just two screws away. Then just pop it out and pop in the new one. All i'll say is that my car doesn't "warm up." haha it runs so cool that, now being winter, i question myself everyday about it. It doesn't blow as much heat out as it used to, but who cares. All in all I'd do a coolant flush while the coolant is out. With the flush, rinsing with prestone superflush, and rinsing again and adding fluid and the works, i'd say an hour. Most of that time is waiting for the superflush to do it's work, and let the engine cool down a bit before draining and rinsing so you don't crack your block...
If the engine is cold, you can just put a bucket under it and remove housing, about a cup of fluid comes out if you are careful. I put plastic bags over anything "downstream". Something I learned the hard way tho: The torque specs in my haynes manual (GM too, I think) are wrong for the cheap-*ss bolts. I think it said 10 or 11 ft/lbs and they snapped at about 9. A post on the Rob Cheek page mentions they are about 7 Lbs torque. I finger-tighted them and a little bit with the ratchet and that was good. Just make sure you get a t-stat for the LT1 as a friend put in some el-cheapo 160 t-stat before dyno time and it was not a reverse flow. We put his old one back in before damage, but you should have seen his temp gauge!
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