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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My tranny has maybe 1-3k miles on it and the clutch pack needs to be replaced (vacuum modulator line cracked). I would normally pay my racing buddy, but I have not been able to get a hold of him for the last three months. I read through the rebuild threads and was wondering what special tools I might need ect... Also is there any site that might have a few more tips and or pics? I think I am ready to learn how to do this.

I would pull one of my cores apart, but missing buddy has all of them.

Thanks for any input!
 

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No special tools needed for a 3-4 clutchpack replace. I'm doing this off of memory. Should take the novice about 3 hours. A pro can do it in maybe 30-60 minutes once the trans is on the bench.

There are a lot of "how to disassemble your 4L60E" threads out on the internet with pics you can follow, so I'll just give a quick step-by-step rundown:

1. drain the trans, remove the trans from the vehicle, remove the tailshaft housing, prop it vertically on a orange crate, bucket, or my favorite - a wooden chair from a thrift store with a 2.5" holesaw hole in the center with a drip tray under it.

2. remove the pan. Remove the filter. Remove the TCC enable solenoid with the two 10mm screws, gently wiggle it out and let the solenoid hang by the wiring harness.

3. Remove the 7 pump face bolts - they are 1/2" heads.

4. Use a prybar in the bottom and side of the trans (by the shift linkage) and gently pop the pump loose. This may take some finagling. It will pop loose. Then pull it out. Save the plastic washer that's sandwiched between the back of the pump and the drum. It usually stays on the drum when you remove the pump.

5. Use a #3 flathead screwdriver and pry the 2-4 band off of the pin boss (the pin boss is at the 6pm position). This will release the band and it will expand against the case.

6. grab the input shaft and lift up. The whole input assembly will come out. Set it down on your (clean) workbench.

7. Remove the smooth reverse input drum that's sitting on top of the input housing by lifting straight up, and set it aside.

8. Wrap a cloth around the input shaft (to protect where the four white ring seals are) and then flip it over and gently clamp the shaft in a vice. There is a bearing and a bushing down where the shaft meets the drum - the cloth should hold these in place but don't lose them.

9. Remove the snapring using a #1 flathead screwdriver.

10. Remove the 3-4 clutchpack. Observe for signs of yuckiness ("coned" frictions with no clutch material on them, shiny rainbow spots on the steels, etc.). Save the 5 springsets that come out. Builders are split on whether to reuse these. Note how they came out so you can put them back in the right way if you choose.

11. Soak new 3-4 clutchpack frictions in ATF for 15 minutes. Install new 3-4 clutchpack. Reinstall springs (if you choose) and snapring.

12. Using two feeler gauges (one on each side), check to make sure that the slack in the stackup is less than 0.070" (0.020"-0.045" is probably optimal).

13. Remove input housing from vice, flip it over, and put the smooth drum back on top of it. wiggle it back and forth to get it fully seated. Fully seated means that drum is sitting on that bearing and bushing you didn't lose from step 8.

14. Remove the 2-4 band from the case. If it is blackened and cracked, you would be wise to replace it. If the smooth drum it rides on is heavily scarred, you would be wise to replace that too. That's your 2nd gear apply surface right there.

15. Put a pair of vice grips around the input shaft splines, lift the whole shebang up and gently set it down into the transmission. Wiggle it back and forth while lifting enough to get the weight off it and allow the clutch teeth to fully seat. You are down when the top of the smooth drum is about 1/8" below the machined shelf where the pump rests.

16. Reinstall the 2-4 band, making sure it's fully seated on the pin boss at 6 o'clock.

17. Use a bit of vaseline to hold the pump washer on the backside of the pump, put the paper gasket back on the shelf if you didn't tear it, then install the pump. Use a hammer and tap around the pump face to get it to fully seat. If you tore the gasket, you can get one from GM or special order from most parts houses. Make sure the pump bolt holes line up properly.

18. Reinstall the pump bolts and torque them to 18 ft lbs.

19. Reinstall TCC solenoid ( 8 ft lbs) and filter.

20. Reinstall pan and bolts (8 ft lbs).

Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Joel! I looked around the web and couldn't find a real good site that made me feel comfortable. Then after I posted this I found a bunch of videos on youtube. While they showed/explained the basics for a rebuild they did not go into every detail that you did. It makes a lot more sense now.

Thank you for the help!

Looks like a couple weeks before I start on this project.

Also just to make sure my problem is cured and I don't have this happen again is this an OK pressure gauge: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRAN...Z110437071755QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools


Thanks again!
 

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Yes, that's a great tool - in fact I bought mine from that same seller (cmbclalb) as well. His manual is pretty interesting to read too. You really only need 0-250psi but 0-300psi will do what you need to do.

BTW, if you need a 3-4 clutchpack, I have a few sitting around I'll sell cheap. Send me a PM and we can talk.
 

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Yes, they'll work on basically any 700R4, 4L60 or 4L60E from 1987 up. Just make sure everything is disconnected from the bottom of the pump before you pry it out.

Lack of 3-4 clutchpack won't give you no reverse. That's likely burned up low reverse clutches in the very back of the trans.
 

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Yes, they'll work on basically any 700R4, 4L60 or 4L60E from 1987 up. Just make sure everything is disconnected from the bottom of the pump before you pry it out.

Lack of 3-4 clutchpack won't give you no reverse. That's likely burned up low reverse clutches in the very back of the trans.
Thanks for the heads up,I printed your quick run down as a reference and had my son read it,watched a few you tube vids
on it and in the next couple late nights we should have it all apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take some pictures or a video, I plan on it.
 

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The top tricks to working 4L60Es in particular and transmissions in general are these:

1. Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness.
2. Never take apart more than one subassembly at a time.
3. Never sweat the condition of unmachined surfaces.
4. Always pay attention to which direction the lip seals go.
5. Clutch-steel-clutch-steel but watch out for wavy plates and special thickness plates. GM parts printouts and the Factory Service Manual is your friend.
6. If you put it back together right, bearings and bushings should always be touching but never binding.
 
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