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Alignment issues suck. Just went through that ringer with the truck. Long story but in the end I had it done by someone who does it mechanically, no machine so no sheet. Came out perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Funny mistake I just did on my second t56 rebuild.

Measured the endplay without shims on the countershaft to be 0.127, so based on 2 thou preload I would need to add up shims to 0.147.

Did that, shims equated up to 0.150ish, popped it in. And what the there was still 0.06 endplay.

Turns out I had the dial caliper in mm 😅 and I misread it from 1.50mm to 0.150, not even sure how I did that.

Good news is that means my initial reading was consistent as 1.50ish mm is around 0.06 thou leaving 0.06 endplay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
It's the worst when you can't make your mind up.

I was running the hurst stick and ball, places it perfectly and I could make the center console work.

But few weeks driving with it, I get the itch to go back to the short stick, and man it feels good to shift. All I know is probably a few weeks later I'll have desire to go back to a longer throw, never ending cycle 😂. Problem with the tick short stick is that it clocks it all the way to the left, so making the center console insert becomes a challenge, and then on top of that with not being able to make my mind up I'm just going to be patient and run it as is.

The hurst leather knob almost makes it look like an auto which I kinda like.

As you can see being 5'4 - 5'5ish my seat needs to be up for me to reach the pedals comfortably...


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As in MAKE the shifter come out where YOU want it to.
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You will also note how high the trans really needs to be to get a decent angle.
So many swaps the driveline angle just sucks .
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
The problem is, I actually like the location of the short shifter, the feeling is super direct and mechanical. I guess tick did their research when they created it.


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However you can see how it's off set to the left.

Now the issue is the center console. I already butchered my console trim ring but what the issue is was is that the stick goes right up to the side of the trim ring and doesn't allow for a flush boot.

Looking at your setup I could try making something similar and just offset the hole to the left.

But I still need to find a center console trim ring now. Which from one of the guys who sells impala parts costs almost like 200 CAD by the time I get it. gah.


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This winter I think I'm taking out the carpet and cleaning up the shifter hole and sealing it properly. Probably through some sound deadening into it also.

Some more images of what I mean by the positioning of it.

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What I mean by the screwed up console trim ring.

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Discussion Starter · #207 · (Edited)
Once I can find a trim ring for not so expensive then I can remake the middle section out of abs plastic and try again.

And I've went through a good like 3-4 different shifter placement iterations but every single time I went back to the short stick setup by tick. So I'm done trying to adjust the position of the shifter and just need to adjust the console around it.

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I ran a very short Hurst that was about the same length as your Tick. Hurst has a whole catalog of options. They should bolt to the Tick just fine.

-Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Yea finding a stick to match the tick throw length would make the most sense.

But I guess I'm not visiting this till near the winter season. Plans for this winter is pull carpet, seal shifter hole properly, sound deadining possibly, fix center console.

As for now, Just gotta drive the crap out of it this year.

I also like the fact you can unscrew the tick shifter really quickly, make a dummy cover for the console and now you have a layer of anti theft hah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
So I guess instead of trying to find a different trim ring I could repair it.

But to do so requires me removing the leather, using plastic filler to fill the spot it was cut at. Then re-wrap with new leather.

But issue #1 is, I removed the staples on the inner side expecting the leather wrap to come off, but it seems glued on the outside? What would be the best way to sand it off without damaging the actual plastic portion of it.

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