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Well, its done now 🙄
Where the holes are really doesn't make a difference but,,,
When I had a stock air box , and swisscheeserated it I drilled the holes larger and centered them in each square.
A multi step drill is a better choice for drilling plastic.
Assembled, it may not show but using that as an excuse is the first step towards " good enough" hack work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
Knew I should have asked before I started 😂

I actually have the bit just need to find it. Guess I can do some of the other areas better and clean it up.

I'm pretty sure my SLP cold air intake wasn't even on properly. The tube was really close to falling out, just a tug and it popped out away from the mass air flow sensor.

Car does feel smoother now. Hopefully it's not just a placebo affect but given that the k&N filters were dirty and the whole thing almost disconnected I think it's better now
 

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Paint looks good toon!
I think I may be picking up the SSRI from Dan at CIA. My current intake set up looks like ass and is not even secured to the car properly. My uncle lost the stock air box and the little piece you need to put the stock air box on or else I would be doing the exact same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
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So I went autocrossing for the first time today,

As expected I was last place 😁 but there's so much to improve.

However body roll, I was damn near being thrown out the window. I thought hotchkis springs with BMR swaybars would alleviate that but that was not the case.

So I either need to find a quick bolt in and out seat that can hold me in place, or minimize body roll similar to like Tad's autocross impala.

I don't know what the best way for that is, I do want to autocross it, I just want to be in the same spot when I'm turning the wheel 🤣


Note the cool MG beside me, was 2nd for the day, T56 LT1 swapped 😲even with a trans am dash.

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It looks like your car is on a lean in the pic, the DS looks lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 · (Edited)
It looks like your car is on a lean in the pic, the DS looks lower.
Hmm you're probably right, only issue is my garage isn't level so I have a hard time actually knowing the difference in ride height is, can an overtightened sway bar link on end cause it?

I do know that the driverside upper coil spring seat isn't seated 100% properly but I'd be suprised if it caused that much of a difference.

Well whatever it is it's most likely me having to pull the coil spring out and re-checking the body bushings, I'd probably throw a half inch spacer in the front just so it isn't as raked. Probably won't happen till after the 20th since I have a few events to go to and don't want to be under the car right now :ROFLMAO:
 

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Ride height , leaning and spacers.
Something to think about,
Once you have the car on dead level - positively level - you got out the spirit level or lazer level , level and you measure the right heights and KNOW what you have.
If the car is low on opposite corners you have a real problem as in frame or body
If the car is say low on the LF and slightly low LR then you can deal with springs and spacers BUT you really need scales!
This because you need to know is the corner is low and heavy or low and light.
If it is low and light then that corner needs more spring or spacer.
If it is low and heavy you may need to take spring out of the RR to let the LF rise.
Yes twisted or maladjusted sway bars can contribute .
Think of the short table leg analogy.
There are many corner weight and ride height articles out there.
While most are geared towards completely adjustable susp, understanding it is still helpful.
Yes the typical street car is always going to be left side heavy but understanding corner weighting can help you to deal with a lean.
I have seen some pretty [email protected]#%ed up cars where some one kept cranking up one corner that was low and the car looked OK but most of the cars weight was on the two opposite corners.
Then the car pulled and someone tried to stop that with alignment.
Then the car would lock one front wheel on braking.
Extreme ( but true) example but just trying to illustrate why you need to know why a corner is low and not just indiscriminately throw a spacer in that corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
I meant spacers on both front passenger and driver sides just cause the front is dropped a lot more than the rear. Not to resolve the leaning issue but to bring the car to a more even stance.

In terms of resolving the lean issue need to level out the car in the garage first then go from there. In terms of getting it corner balanced, how would you redistribute weight on a fairly stock car without having to gut it.

I'm sure my suspension geometry is off but with no real seat time and experience I wouldn't know why it was off and how to even resolve it unless I had someone hand holding me.

Do wish there was a more hands-on / practical guide specifically to the b-bodies related to this, like as an example the stock springs aren't purchasable, which means most b-bodies are not running the stock height. Does that negatively impact roll-center, if that does how does one go about adjusting it within the boundaries of the other stock components. I.E comboes like hotchkis/bilstein springs are used in many setups, are those not optimal?

I see threads here and there about topics like that but just never anything practical that I can follow as a guideline, maybe there is and my understanding just isn't there yet.

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You can change the wheel weights without actualy moving things in a car.
That is why I said the left side will still be heavy , you are not physically moving where the weight is.
As for example, say you did have a magical car that was 1000 pounds on all 4 wheels and sitting level.
Say for sake of argument it has adjustable springs.
Someone come in and cranks up the right rear of the car.
Now the car is low on the left front and the weights might be
1200 rr
800 lr
800 rf
1200 lf
You walk in and notice the left front is low
Rather than dropping the right rear, you crank up the low left front
You have leveled the car but now the weights are something like

1400 rr
600 lr
600 rf
1400 lf

This is a extreme example but is real.

I used to set up a lot 911, 993, 996,997 Porsches.
Old 911s only weighed about 500-550 on each front wheel.
People would get lost on spline counts and have 200-300 lbs crossweight.
What did they notice ?
" must be the brakes because I had the alignment done but the car locks one front wheel and heads for the curb when I slam on the brakes "
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Wrapped, not bad at all for the price I paid. Definitely would not have been able to do this. OEM leather stitched nicely. Only flaw is the crinkle on the bend but in person it's actually hard to see. Hate how my carpets have yellowed out 😰

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
Finally got around to making the side marker a marker only for the inner switchback to work. Guess the last step would be to wire the corner lamp into the turn signal but I'm not sure if that keeps it on all the time if the parking lamps are on? If so that might be too bright... Right now the corner lamps I popped in an orange LED so it somewhat looks like a turn signal even though it doesn't flash.


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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
On the topic of corner balance, I guess when I relocated the spring perches on the rear so that the springs weren't so angled it added right height to the rear so I'm assuming that may be affecting the car. (butt up)

Guess until I get it on scales I won't know for sure.


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