How I'd liked to have my car come from factory
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Unfortunately it costs about 500 USD now from threepedals, and probably another 100 more just for shipping so that's out of the question.
I went to a shop recently to get a custom console overlay, still waiting to receive it but once I get it we'll see how it looks. Just hoping I can make it look as stock as possible.
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911 Posts
Yes they did. You will find a heatsink that the drl system connects mount at the top of the pedal bracket.
And yea generally the prices here for used items related to the b-body do seem cheaper. I see people paying double the cars worth in the states than the deals I find here, unfortunately I already on own one so no more for me. Multiple sub 60k mile cars for around 15k USD and cheaper.
Hell I picked up my 94 for 9000 USD with 39k miles on it, and people were still trying to low ball the guy that I got it from and that was in 2019
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3,364 Posts
On the CDN cars, the module that is behind the passenger kick panel can be disconnected to get rid of DRLs. Two connectors, the module slides off the mount. If you remove it, you will also lose the auto on headlights.
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911 Posts
Good to know
Just curious, do you guys know why only Canadian Impalas came with DRLs?
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The Motor Vehicle Safety Act dictates all vehicles sold or imported into Canada after Dec. 1, 1989, must have automatic daytime running lights (DRLs). However, Ontario’s Highway Traffic Act doesn’t require the use of DRLs. Full lights must be on in darkness or poor visibility under S. 62 HTA.
If you see a vehicle without DRLs, it was either built before December ‘89; it’s a U.S. visitor’s vehicle; has a broken or disconnected DRL system; or was imported after it was 15 years old (the federal government has no jurisdiction over these).
Huh
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911 Posts
Just a law here in Canada that requires it
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911 Posts
Weird issue that just happened the other day.
When I was driving and I tried to rev match it would start grinding the gears.
Which is odd because I can shift up and down no issues with the clutch pedal pressed in, but only when I'm in say 4th gear, I press the clutch in I blip the throttle it grinds. So why would it be grinding at that point in time and not when I actually shift?
I brought it to the shop to get it checked out and bled to see if there is air in the system but for it to only grind on the throttle blip and not anytime else is just odd.
When I was driving and I tried to rev match it would start grinding the gears.
Which is odd because I can shift up and down no issues with the clutch pedal pressed in, but only when I'm in say 4th gear, I press the clutch in I blip the throttle it grinds. So why would it be grinding at that point in time and not when I actually shift?
I brought it to the shop to get it checked out and bled to see if there is air in the system but for it to only grind on the throttle blip and not anytime else is just odd.
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3,364 Posts
It's really difficult to bleed all the air out of this system. Some air will work out while you drive it. I had to rebleed eventually when I couldn't get it in reverse with the engine running. This was about six months after my install. I did start with bone dry hydraulics, had to replace the slave cylinder with new. NOTE: to actually get it to reverse bleed, you must pull UP on the clutch pedal to expose the ports in the clutch cylinder. This allows you to actuate the slave and push fluid (and air) up to the remote reservoir. Your shop may know this, but just in case.
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Maybe it's my lack of understanding, but regardless of gear and speed shouldn't the disengagement of the clutch be the same when you press down on the pedal?
If it grinded every gear it's easy to say the hydraulics is not disengaging the clutch properly. But I'm able to shift completely normal throughout every gear while driving, only when I'm in a gear at a certain speed and I blip the throttle with the clutch pedal pressed it grinds. What is the difference in clutch engagement there versus any other state?
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911 Posts
Yep, drove 2000km on the setup no issues until the other day so really odd. Does seem like it is pilot bushing/input shaft related. Definitely should have gotten a new f-body magnum.............
If it is an input shaft issue and requires the trans to be opened up the question becomes do I cut the losses and try to re-sell the trans as is and get an f-body magnum, already put money into it to get reverse fixed which might've been a mistake . Just don't have the space to attempt it myself.
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53 Posts
I've done a lot of the stuff you did but I added an LS2 to get rid of the problematic old engine.
Morimoto LED lights.
Completely redid the suspension and body bushings. Not a cheap job. In deference to a bad knee I actually RAISED the ride height by 28mm. Deep knee bends are no fun these days. (Don't let yourself get old - blow your brains out and save the long dragged out misery)
On the list:
Brake upgrade
E85 tune and compression increase.
Love to do a six-speed, but I cannot find a servo for this setup.
Morimoto LED lights.
Completely redid the suspension and body bushings. Not a cheap job. In deference to a bad knee I actually RAISED the ride height by 28mm. Deep knee bends are no fun these days. (Don't let yourself get old - blow your brains out and save the long dragged out misery)
On the list:
Brake upgrade
E85 tune and compression increase.
Love to do a six-speed, but I cannot find a servo for this setup.
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5,504 Posts
Well, as you can appreciate, internet noise diagnosis can go off the rails pretty quick.
Thoughts, if you were not getting a clean clutch disengagement ( see Jays post about bleeding ) you may have killed the 4th gear blocker ring.
There is not a lot of leeway for lost motion with the factory hydraulics .
Any deflection or air , you will be on the carpet and still dragging the disc.
As changing to a TR6060 ( magnum)
Other than strength there is nothing wrong with the T56.
I will say, I have no love for the early F pull clutch.
Try rebleed first
As for rev matching, double clutching,
Most people don't have a clue.
Done properly, even the most [email protected]#$ up trans wont grind.
Thoughts, if you were not getting a clean clutch disengagement ( see Jays post about bleeding ) you may have killed the 4th gear blocker ring.
There is not a lot of leeway for lost motion with the factory hydraulics .
Any deflection or air , you will be on the carpet and still dragging the disc.
As changing to a TR6060 ( magnum)
Other than strength there is nothing wrong with the T56.
I will say, I have no love for the early F pull clutch.
Try rebleed first
As for rev matching, double clutching,
Most people don't have a clue.
Done properly, even the most [email protected]#$ up trans wont grind.
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911 Posts
I'm just confused as to why there is grinding in the first place.
I haven't shifted a gear, all I did was push the pedal down, blip the throttle in say 4th gear and then it makes a grinding noise.
If the clutch is grabbing then it should spin the input shaft and turn the output shaft, to which the gears are already engaged so wouldn't it just bring the car speed up?
Outside of that the car is shifting fine, nothing unusual on the upshifts or downshifts.
I think that would rule out it actually being the gear engagement inside the transmission and related to the input shaft grinding on something? I have no idea lol just you-tubing my way through it.
To get more diagnosis:
I need to find out what speed or rpm it happens at, because it did not happen when I had the car at a complete stop only when the car was in motion.
I need to find out what exact gears it happens on, I recall 4 but honestly I didn't want to push my luck so I stopped.
Problem is I don't want to go damaging the trans anymore so I'm reluctant to go do some more diagnosis just yet.
I haven't shifted a gear, all I did was push the pedal down, blip the throttle in say 4th gear and then it makes a grinding noise.
If the clutch is grabbing then it should spin the input shaft and turn the output shaft, to which the gears are already engaged so wouldn't it just bring the car speed up?
Outside of that the car is shifting fine, nothing unusual on the upshifts or downshifts.
I think that would rule out it actually being the gear engagement inside the transmission and related to the input shaft grinding on something? I have no idea lol just you-tubing my way through it.
To get more diagnosis:
I need to find out what speed or rpm it happens at, because it did not happen when I had the car at a complete stop only when the car was in motion.
I need to find out what exact gears it happens on, I recall 4 but honestly I didn't want to push my luck so I stopped.
Problem is I don't want to go damaging the trans anymore so I'm reluctant to go do some more diagnosis just yet.
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