How I'd liked to have my car come from factory
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They believe its the input shaft, bled the system, didn't seem like any issues with clutch engagement. I also lifted the car from the back, put it through the gears with some rpm and didn't see anything wrong either.
They'll have to get back to me on pricing and when they can actually get the shaft.
They'll have to get back to me on pricing and when they can actually get the shaft.
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5,504 Posts
Wow, this doesnt makea lot of sense.
They just had the trans apart.
4th gear, there is no load through the gear on the input shaft.
Colossal preload - end float setup F U ?
The two piece counter setup is not quite straight forward but one would think a profesional shop would know the ins and outs .
Backing away from the keyboard now
They just had the trans apart.
4th gear, there is no load through the gear on the input shaft.
Colossal preload - end float setup F U ?
The two piece counter setup is not quite straight forward but one would think a profesional shop would know the ins and outs .
Backing away from the keyboard now
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911 Posts
all I can say is bleh.
I'll just drive it for now since it drives normal other than the fact I can't rev match downshift until
a) I get the motivation to pull it out again and attempt it myself
b) the quote the shop provides me is reasonable
c) I put this one up for sale and buy a magnum.
d) I go to another shop for a second opinion.
I'll just drive it for now since it drives normal other than the fact I can't rev match downshift until
a) I get the motivation to pull it out again and attempt it myself
b) the quote the shop provides me is reasonable
c) I put this one up for sale and buy a magnum.
d) I go to another shop for a second opinion.
What ever you do don’t choose c)
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911 Posts
Just looking at my last bill for repair:
Labor: $852 CAD/670 USD
Reverse Gear: $584.66 CAD/464 USD
Reverse Hub and sleeve: $298.64CAD/237 USD
Fork inserts: $48 CAD/38 USD
Total: $1782 CAD / $1409 USD before tax.
In terms of parts and stuff I don't see nothing too crazy but let me know.
The only thing I feel like is off is the line item for trans removal and installation for 700... Should have just pulled it out myself and that would have saved some coin. stupid tax on me for not asking what that would cost.
Should be going to another shop tomorrow just to get another opinion.
Labor: $852 CAD/670 USD
Reverse Gear: $584.66 CAD/464 USD
Reverse Hub and sleeve: $298.64CAD/237 USD
Fork inserts: $48 CAD/38 USD
Total: $1782 CAD / $1409 USD before tax.
In terms of parts and stuff I don't see nothing too crazy but let me know.
The only thing I feel like is off is the line item for trans removal and installation for 700... Should have just pulled it out myself and that would have saved some coin. stupid tax on me for not asking what that would cost.
Should be going to another shop tomorrow just to get another opinion.
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5,504 Posts
Horse has left the barn , just hope that was a genuine GM reverse for that price!
An aftermarket rev gear is 153 cdn delivered to canada from rock auto!
Reverse slider can be flipped once as it only wears one side
Add a blocker, and it's " like new"
Assuming the hub splines aren't shot.
Like I said barns empty on the reverse.
An aftermarket rev gear is 153 cdn delivered to canada from rock auto!
Reverse slider can be flipped once as it only wears one side
Add a blocker, and it's " like new"
Assuming the hub splines aren't shot.
Like I said barns empty on the reverse.
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911 Posts
Lmao F me.
Think it's time for me to just step it up and learn how to disassemble and reassemble the trans so I can get it done right without being "shafted"
Guess that's the project come first snow fall. Thread probably won't be updated till then
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911 Posts
Clearly there's a million air bubbles and they didn't bleed it.
Gonna take me sometime to get rid of all the air in the system so hopefully I haven't toasted anything and it possibly resolves the issue.
That was supposedly one of the better shops and they did my rear end without issue so just odd. I'm just too non-confrontational, if I get a bad service I just don't go there again.
gyazo.com
No idea if I'm bleeding it correctly but essentially I disconnected the slave from the shift fork and push the rod against something on the bottom like how they bench bleed it.|
Ordered an Inland Empire DS, after reading the threads everyone says Dennys but I actually can't order from them since they require a US billing address which I don't have, I can get it shipped to a US address just not the billing aspect of it so inland empire it is, plus it seems be to resold with the three pedals kit and also on clear image automative so hopefully no issues there...
Gonna take me sometime to get rid of all the air in the system so hopefully I haven't toasted anything and it possibly resolves the issue.
That was supposedly one of the better shops and they did my rear end without issue so just odd. I'm just too non-confrontational, if I get a bad service I just don't go there again.
Gyazo
gyazo.com
No idea if I'm bleeding it correctly but essentially I disconnected the slave from the shift fork and push the rod against something on the bottom like how they bench bleed it.|
Ordered an Inland Empire DS, after reading the threads everyone says Dennys but I actually can't order from them since they require a US billing address which I don't have, I can get it shipped to a US address just not the billing aspect of it so inland empire it is, plus it seems be to resold with the three pedals kit and also on clear image automative so hopefully no issues there...
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3,364 Posts
You are. I used a chunk of 2x4 to push the piston. Remember to block the clutch pedal up. I really think that bleeding will fix your issues. Denny's probably would have been ok with the CDN billing address if you added the US address to your card as a shipping address (and called it in to Denny's).
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911 Posts
I'd have to get someone to order it on my behalf, the issue being if there's any damage or what not during shipping I'm going to be in a bad spot. That being said the order for the IE driveshaft is through so no going back unless someone really insists that their DS isn't worth it.
I bled the system but noticed that the slave was leaking so just going to buy the pre-bled kit from rockauto cause I'm pretty sure the master might have some issues also so knock two birds with one stone. Though I did read that those systems have some sort of orifice that can cause some issues with shifting at high rpms but deal with that another day.
Is Inland Empire Driveline any good? Or Denny’s just preference? I ask cuz I’m in the market for one..
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911 Posts
The forum preference is Denny's that's for sure. Only going inland cause Denny's requires a US billing address on the credit card
Is it the quality on workmanship, HP rating, on the Dennys? Any one can answer this..
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911 Posts
Both old slave and master where wet so replaced it
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AC delco unit prebled, master installed (underneath brake booster)
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Differences from the worn out one: pedal travel is a lot shorter but it is firmer, not as much dead zone either. Felt a bit more predictable but it does feel awkward how short the travel is compared to what it was.
Did that solve the grinding noise? Nope, but after reading many a threads and listening to the noise closely I'm fairly certain what it is but that requires transmission removal so I guess I'll do that when my DS arrives.
AC delco unit prebled, master installed (underneath brake booster)
Differences from the worn out one: pedal travel is a lot shorter but it is firmer, not as much dead zone either. Felt a bit more predictable but it does feel awkward how short the travel is compared to what it was.
Did that solve the grinding noise? Nope, but after reading many a threads and listening to the noise closely I'm fairly certain what it is but that requires transmission removal so I guess I'll do that when my DS arrives.
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911 Posts
With winter coming it's time to revisit everything properly.
First order of business, height! When I did the initial transmission install the jackstand setup was just brutal, height wasn't enough on top of that it wouldn't allow me to roll under the car properly. On top of that the garage floor is a little bit crooked, pretty much why I was just so hesitant to pull it out again.
So I spent a bit of coin and bought these race ramps. Looks like the clearance should be enough now. A lot less sketchy to get the car this high now since it's a two piece setup.
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Next order of business, re-buy the transmission floor jack since the last one I had was faulty.
And also double check pinion angle and what not to make sure the driveshaft and rear-end are not messed up, I don't think it is since the car was driving fine but in the process of doing it right I will leave no stone unturned.
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First order of business, height! When I did the initial transmission install the jackstand setup was just brutal, height wasn't enough on top of that it wouldn't allow me to roll under the car properly. On top of that the garage floor is a little bit crooked, pretty much why I was just so hesitant to pull it out again.
So I spent a bit of coin and bought these race ramps. Looks like the clearance should be enough now. A lot less sketchy to get the car this high now since it's a two piece setup.
Next order of business, re-buy the transmission floor jack since the last one I had was faulty.
And also double check pinion angle and what not to make sure the driveshaft and rear-end are not messed up, I don't think it is since the car was driving fine but in the process of doing it right I will leave no stone unturned.
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911 Posts
What the............. I took the shifter off and I see this?? Did the pin somehow back its way up?
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Clearly in my photo before reverse was rebuilt it was in properly (I think).
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The issue is, I installed the shifter myself after reverse was rebuilt, but I didn't take a photo so I can't recall if the pin was put in properly or if it somehow got backed out. I guess I can inform the shop but highly highly doubt they will do anything.
Also noticed this leak which I hadn't seen before.
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Wonder if the metal shavings started causing those issues....
Will remove the trans and take everything apart if the shop says they can't do anything about it. Just ridiculous
Clearly in my photo before reverse was rebuilt it was in properly (I think).
The issue is, I installed the shifter myself after reverse was rebuilt, but I didn't take a photo so I can't recall if the pin was put in properly or if it somehow got backed out. I guess I can inform the shop but highly highly doubt they will do anything.
Also noticed this leak which I hadn't seen before.
Wonder if the metal shavings started causing those issues....
Will remove the trans and take everything apart if the shop says they can't do anything about it. Just ridiculous
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5,504 Posts
I would think who ever put the aftermarket shifter on did not pay attention.
The position of the pin would have been OK with a stock shifter.
Your shifter gives no leeway.
The leak could be crappy workmanship with the sealer or the front seal because of excess end float
The position of the pin would have been OK with a stock shifter.
Your shifter gives no leeway.
The leak could be crappy workmanship with the sealer or the front seal because of excess end float
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911 Posts
I happen to be that person 🤦🏽♂️
I pulled the trans, the input shaft is chewed up but I don't actually know what the extent is, is it terrible?. I will say just by hand the input shaft has minimal play compared to when I first bought it after the rebuild, will be able to verify once I get my dial indicator.
What is this orange pasty looking thing
Will be tearing it down in the coming weeks and seeing what needs to be updated as I did feel 3rd gear was not a smooth engagement anymore so even if this other issue I'm having is unrelated I would still need to.
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