[mike b]

I just received my stealth bolt 1 and bolt 2 metering rod

Installation sounds straight forward

But bleeding the system sounds like the real job
Any tips on best and easiest way to bleed my brakes after installing the bolts

 

[SEO9C1]

...Any tips on best and easiest way to bleed my brakes after installing the bolts

Several ways of doing it really.

1) One man operation:

A) Gravity bleed. Do a search for more comprehensive procedure. Get 4 pieces about 1 1/2 feet long of clear 3/8" vinyl tube. Attach one end over bleeder nipple, the other in a disposable bottle. Open all bleeders and as the name suggests, let gravity do its thing. Check periodically to assure master cylinder doesn't run dry and top off w/ new fluid. When new fluid comes out on all 4 corners, tighten screws and test brake pedal feel. Should brakes still feel loose, move on to one of the following operations. Remove hoses, discard old fluid/bottles and done.

B) Speedbleeders. Do a search for more comprehensive procedure. Get speedbleeders for all 4 corners (front and rear are different sizes) and replace the OEM's w/ these. Get 1 piece about 1 1/2 feet long of clear 3/8" vinyl tube. Attach one end of hose over bleeder nipple and the other in a disposable bottle. Assure all bleeders are tight and that hose is tight on bleeder nipple. Open the RR bleeder and depress brake pedal completely to the floor and release repeatedly. Check periodically to assure master cylinder doesn't run dry and top off w/ new fluid. When new fluid comes out, tighten screw. Repeat procedure sequentially at all 4 corners moving from RR to LR to RF to LF. Upon completion, should brakes still feel loose, repeat entire sequence again. Remove hose, discard old fluid/bottle and done. Some who bleed this way remove the speedbleeders afterwards and replace w/ the OEM's because they're leery of the speedbleeders failing.

C) Submersion. Do a search for more comprehensive procedure. Get 1 piece about 1 1/2 feet long of clear 3/8" vinyl tube. Attach one end of hose over RR bleeder nipple and assure it's tight and the other end in a disposable bottle. Fill the bottle w/ new brake fluid until the level is above the bottom of the hose. Use a wire tie to make sure the hose doesn't work it's way out of the bottle/get above the fluid level. Open the bleeder and depress brake pedal completely to the floor and release repeatedly. Check periodically to assure master cylinder doesn't run dry and top off w/ new fluid. When new fluid comes out, tighten screw. Repeat procedure sequentially at all 4 corners moving from RR to LR to RF to LF. Upon completion, should brakes still feel loose, repeat entire sequence again. Remove hose, discard old fluid/bottle and done.

2) Two man operation:

A) Communication is the key. Do a search for more comprehensive procedure. One person in the cockpit, herein called "Jack". One on the wrench, herein called "Fred". Get 1 piece about 1 1/2 feet long of clear 3/8" vinyl tube. Starting at RR, attach one end of hose over bleeder nipple and the other in a disposable bottle. Fred makes sure Jack's foot is off the pedal. Once assured, Fred loosens bleeder screw and retightens but only "just snug" and NOT "cranked down" . Fred then signals Jack to "pump" the brake 3-4 times and to "hold" the pedal down after the last depression. Jack pumps the brake pedal and then signals to Fred he is holding the pedal down. Fred loosens the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 turn and fluid shoots out of the bleeder. When done properly, Fred will see no more fluid coming out of the bleeder at the same time Jacks foot depresses the pedal completely to the floor. Fred then tightens the bleeder screw just snug. Once tight, Fred then signals Jack to "pump" the brake 3-4 times and to "hold" the pedal down after the last depression. Jack pumps the brake pedal and then signals to Fred he is holding the pedal down, etc... This process is repeated about 3-4 times after which time Jack takes his foot of the pedal and Fred checks to assure master cylinder doesn't run dry and tops off w/ new fluid. Once new fluid comes out of the bleeder, tighten screw completely. Repeat procedure sequentially at all 4 corners moving from RR to LR to RF to LF. Upon completion, should brakes still feel loose, repeat entire sequence again. Remove hose, discard old fluid/bottle and done.

There are even a couple of other more creative ways involving power seats, 2x4's, etc..., but this should point you in the right direction.

 

[jayoldschool]

A) Gravity bleed. Do a search for more comprehensive procedure. Get 4 pieces about 1 1/2 feet long of clear 3/8" vinyl tube. Attach one end over bleeder nipple, the other in a disposable bottle. Open all bleeders and as the name suggests, let gravity do its thing. Check periodically to assure master cylinder doesn't run dry and top off w/ new fluid. When new fluid comes out on all 4 corners, tighten screws and test brake pedal feel. Should brakes still feel loose, move on to one of the following operations. Remove hoses, discard old fluid/bottles and done

A few questions:
1. Can you do this from the RR bleeder only? I have replaced my main rear brake line and can only get the RR bleeder open. I don't want to talk about the LR right now
2. Take the top off the MC while it gravity bleeds?
3. How long will this take if the entire line from ABS to rear crossmember has been replaced?
4. I don't care about mess, and I have a drain pan under the axle. Can I just leave the bleeder open without a tube on it?

I will be doing the two man operation on Wednesday. It sure would be nice if that line had filled up by then. Hope my wife likes being called "Jack".

 

[cletus284]

A few questions:
1. Can you do this from the RR bleeder only? I have replaced my main rear brake line and can only get the RR bleeder open. I don't want to talk about the LR right now

Nope, gotta open them all. That's what flare nut wrenches (and, when all else fails), Vice-Grips were invented for.

2. Take the top off the MC while it gravity bleeds?

Yes, you need to so you can add fluid. If you do this, drain until clear, clean fluid comes out.

3. How long will this take if the entire line from ABS to rear crossmember has been replaced?

A while. Like said before, drain until clear fluid comes out.

4. I don't care about mess, and I have a drain pan under the axle. Can I just leave the bleeder open without a tube on it?

If you don't mind the mess, but it gets everywhere. Brake fluid is slippery.

 

[Chicagoareabmx]

From all the race car guy stuff I've waded through in the last few years on the internet, the 2 man operation is still the most foolproof way to really get all the air and old nasty fluid pushed through and out of the system according to most.

First time I recall hearing someone recommend pumping the pedal 2-3 before cracking the bleeder though.

I've always just had my assistant start to push the pedal to build some pressure, then crack the bleeder, then close when they get to the floor before letting back up. Always worked real well for me, but pumping a few times certainly would build pressure to blow out more air and old fluid, so maybe I'll give that a try next bleed.

 

[SEO9C1]

First time I recall hearing someone recommend pumping the pedal 2-3 before cracking the bleeder though.

Actually, no. Don't do this. It's VERY important not to pump the brakes prior to cracking the bleeders. Crack all bleeders 1st prior to engaging the pedal. Retighten just snug and then pump/bleed. The reason for this is due to the hydraulic force you're building behind the bleeder screw once you engage the pedal. Ever had a bleeder snap on you (particularly drum brakes/wheel cylinders)? More often than not, it's because of this hydraulic pressure buildup and not because the screw is old and rusty.

I'm asserting my routine disclaimer on the above methods. If in question, peruse a source more experienced and knowledgeable than I. To err is human and I'm just that. Personally, I use speedbleeders. Next, I'll illustrate the effectiveness of leeches. Grab some popcorn and hold your breath...