Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 280 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
how do i delete or disfunction the air pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
This thread has a link to the ss handbook which tells you how to disable it along with a wealth of other information. To delete it you just yank the air pump and all the sh*t that runs to and from it out after you disable it. I don't think you're supposed to yank out the electric wires that run to it though, just zip tie them off to something. Idk.. someone back me up.. oh.. and use the search function.. type in air pump.. and you can find other threads about this.. and you can find the size plug you will need to plug your manifold if you decide to delete the air pump instead of just disabling it.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=227199&highlight=handbook
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
ledsled has it right. just unplug it and tie the connector outta the way. when you remove the piping they will be tack welded or rivited or something to the bracket for the alternator (ithink) just wiggle and it will pop off. what i did was take the driverside and bend the pipe back and forth until it snapped in half under the front of the engine, (cause i couldnt get it ALL out in one peice)pulled out the driver side, then worked the passenger side out. but BE CAREFULL!!! not to cut or pinch and damage the passenger plug wires that run under the alt. mines a 95 so no need to reprogram the pcm. leave the fuse in cause it runs the hood light also :D

its easy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
also.... i pulled mine off down to the manifold itself. so i used two oil pan plugs for a 2000 dodge dakota from napa to plug it up. fit perfect. i know there are other options out there (maybe cheaper too) but thats just what i found at the time.
goodluck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
The A.I.R Pump disable process is listed here in the tech section of forum at this link:
http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm

Below are pics of the AIR pump deleted, and the Oil drain plug I used to cap off the exhaust
manifolds plug for my 1995 LT1. The 94 and Early 95's are the same size, The later 95's and 96 Models
are different and use a 5/8" Flare Cap nut to plug the manifolds. These can be found at Lowes or
Home depot. Determine which manifold type you have Here (Husskers pics)
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=229732&page=2

The 96 model AIR Pump delete also requires a reprogram (OBD-II) Also, DONT use the
paper gasket that comes with the drain plug on the exhaust! Go to your local hardware store
and get a "Thin" copper or metal gasket for the setup (Pic). I Highly suggest that when your
preparing to do this removal project, lightly wire brush off the threads of the AIR Pump tubes that
go into the manifolds, Get the manifolds "Warm" (Not blistering HOT), then spray down the
threads/AIR Tube connector with PB-Blaster and let it set for an Hr, repeat the Heat/PB Blaster 1 more time.
Make sure you have the Correct size wrench for this Job!!! It is recommended that you
Use a " 6-Point Line" wrench for this Job! You may only get 1 decent shot at getting the rusted
tube fittings loose and you dont want to strip the heads in the process. Go easy and they will
come loose and out. Tighten the manifold plugs down decent but DONT over-tighten them!

6-Point Line Wrenches



AIR Pump deleted and exhaust manifolds capped




1994 and Early 95 Model AIR Pump/Exhaust manifold fitting



Description: Oil drain plug, used to cap off early model 94-95 exhaust manifolds.

Dorman Motormite 65223 Oil & Lube, Oil Drain Plugs

Dorman Motormite 65223 Oil & Lube, Oil Drain Plugs Features:
• Oil Drain Plugs
• Type: Standard
• Thread Size: M22-1.50
• Under-Head Length: 17mm
• Head Size: 19mm
• Head Style: Flanged Hex
• Brand: Dorman - AutoGrade - Oil-Tite!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks bro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,186 Posts
OK, so besides cleaning up the engine bay and losing a couple of pounds, what's the point?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
OK, so besides cleaning up the engine bay and losing a couple of pounds, what's the point?
...thats the point.
get rid of a useless ugly piece o crap just getting in the way.
i dont regret it at all. didnt work anyways, plus now my UNDERHOOD LIGHT WORKS :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
OK, so besides cleaning up the engine bay and losing a couple of pounds, what's the point?
Well, Clicking on the link already provided in this thread (What it's there for) would explain the reason(s) for the fix :rolleyes: .
Here it is again.
http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm

DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code(s)


Technical - Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) #01-06-04-011

Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure)
1995-1996 Buick Roadmaster
1995-1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
1995-1996 Chevrolet Caprice, Impala SS
with 4.3L or 5.7L Engine (VINs W, P -- RPOs L99, LT1)
Condition
  • Some customers may comment of a hesitation during heavy/full throttle acceleration.
  • A 1996 vehicle may also set any of the following DTCs:
    • P0410
    • P0412
    • P1415
    • P1416
    • P0100
    • P0101
    • P0102
  • A 1995 vehicle may set a DTC 48.
  • There will also be evidence of water in the AIR pump.
Cause

Under high engine speed and load conditions, hot exhaust gasses may leak past the air check valves. As the exhaust gasses in the air tube cool, water vapors collect into the AIR pump. As the vehicle is driven, condensation from the AIR pump may come into contact with the Mass Airflow Sensor through the AIR inlet hose. This condition may cause a hesitation on acceleration and may also set the DTCs.
Correction

To correct this condition, a Secondary AIR Injection Pump disable procedure has been developed. (It has been determined that the Secondary AIR Injection system is not required to meet emission requirements for these vehicles only.) In other words, you can remove the AIR System all together and on a 96 model B-Bodys, A GM Dealer will reprogram your PCM to delete the AIR System out of it per the TSB (Technical service bulletin) #01-06-04-011. Just give them that number if you still have the AIR system in your car and want to get rid of it. There also a Sticker they put on the Radiator support of the car for those that have to do Emissions testing that says it's been legally removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,438 Posts
Aight I went back to an autozone here near my job. They found the ones from the back in the bags but the m22-1.50 they wanted $27.99 each for. So i left there and went to o reilly's next door and they ordered them from oklahoma for $3.49 each. Man all this for two #@$^%^@# plugs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,049 Posts
Aight I went back to an autozone here near my job. They found the ones from the back in the bags but the m22-1.50 they wanted $27.99 each for. So i left there and went to o reilly's next door and they ordered them from oklahoma for $3.49 each. Man all this for two #@$^%^@# plugs
I hope you have an early '95, or all that work was in vain...

'94-early '95


Late '95-'96


Yes, the manifold threads ARE different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,049 Posts
Well, check your check valve fittings.

If your fitting screws directly into the manifold, then you have the early style.

If it has a nut that screws onto a coupling in the manifold, it is the later one, and the cheap and easy setup for that is a pair of these from Lowe's:


They are a 5/8" flare cap, and can be had very cheap.

I'd go ahead and get the ones you ordered regardless if they fit or not, as you can usually sell them on here QUICK if they dont.

2 other indicatos of the later style:

-The passenger side has a hose that goes from the pipe to the check valve in a clumsy circle over the valve cover.

-Fuse 3 in the underhood fuse box is 25 amps as opposed to 20 amps on the older style.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,438 Posts
hard to tell in these pics but mine has the wierd looking loop back over the passenger side valve cover. But the driver side bends left like the first picture you posted and not to the right like the second picture.






Guess I will just have to wait until I get off work to definately confirm which one I have
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,049 Posts
You have the later style. Notice the passenger side hose going in a big circle over the valve cover/oil cap. That eyesore goes away when you get this deleted.

Next stop: Lowe's/Home Depot;)
 
1 - 20 of 280 Posts
Top