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intact air pipe removal help

Has anyone pulled the air pipe without cutting it? If so any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Not sure why anyone would want to since it is so much more trouble for something this worthless,that's never going back on the car. It requires removal of the accessory bracket is the biggest reason that people usually cut them. In fact the book instructs one to cut the pipe,and sleeve with hose if re-installing.
 

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Has anyone pulled the air pipe without cutting it? If so any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks
Most all who've done this wondered the same thing and for the same reason: "if left intact, then someday I could re-install it and make it stock again."

Won't happen. Never has. You won't miss it one bit. Cut it, remove it and don't look back.

The one notable exception to this being CA vehicles which have to pass a draconian spate of emissions testing and inspection. They must be kept intact. And for CA owners who believe the TSB label allows you to remove the system, no. It doesn't. It merely allows you to disable it.

But if you live, well, anywhere else in the whole World besides CA, then ditch it.
 

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Pipe removal

I have removed three of them intact. It is more work to get it out intact. I had to remove the fans and upper radiator retainer to tip the radiator. Probably a couple other things also, it has been a while since I did it. I have 2 more to remove.

Ken
 

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The one notable exception to this being CA vehicles which have to pass a draconian spate of emissions testing and inspection. They must be kept intact. And for CA owners who believe the TSB label allows you to remove the system, no. It doesn't. It merely allows you to disable it.

But if you live, well, anywhere else in the whole World besides CA, then ditch it.
Afingmen....yeah it needs to be left on the vehicle in California to pass visual. You may get lucky at a smog test that does not know or care but for the most part our 20+ year old cars get "Test Only" smog notices and those shops are under scrutiny (read sting cars are brought in by CARB) so they play by the book.

But yeah for those who can "remove" the system cutting the pipe is likely easier since the one PS bolt tab is held on under the accessory bracket.
 

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No...
 

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Will deleting the air pump affect passing emissions?
Visual inspection "could" be a problem is removed. This has been discussed numerous times here.

It really depends on the emission strictness in the state that the car needs to be inspected. For example - California folks run into problems with a visual inspection and it CANT be remove. For me here in PA it was not a problem as long as the emissions look good on the dyno. All states can vary so do your research first since GM really designed this as a Disable and not a removal.
 

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Will deleting the air pump affect passing emissions?
You don't mention the model year of your car. TSB applies only to 95-96 model years, as mentioned at least once in the previous 200+ posts in this thread.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showpost.php?p=11441329&postcount=225

The issue will be that both disabling or "deleting" the air pump, regardless of any visual inspection requirement, will also turn on a check-engine light, which is corrected by a PCM re-flash, as detailed in the bulletin. In most cases, an emissions test is a no-pass if there's a CEL, so it has to be dealt with in some fashion.
 

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Welp, I'm currently crossing this bridge as I have it moved to the side to complete my WP, wires, plugs, cap/rotor project. Seems it's not a good option to remove it given the state I'm from. If I lived anywhere other than Ca, it would be removed!cwm6
 

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Finally got rid of mine a few weeks back. Well, I took the actual pump and rubber hoses off over the summer but actually getting rid of the metal pipe I waited until I had the car up in the air to change the oil. Took some creative cutting with a dremel, but, I was able to bend and yank it out after a while.
 

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I love Florida, don't have inspections of any kinds, I don't even have to bring the car to get new sticker. I need a new passenger header anyways, got the old off, is cracked and leaks exhaust. When I get new, I want to just cap it. I'm having trouble finding new driver side, everyone seems to only have the passenger side. Any reason? Anyone know part numbers for drive side? Dorman? ATP?
 

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I know this is an old thread and I did not read every post but what do you do about the missing pulley when you take the pump off do you need another belt or a pulley delete
 

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I know this is an old thread and I did not read every post but what do you do about the missing pulley when you take the pump off do you need another belt or a pulley delete
these have a electrical motor pump NO pulley.. now back in the old days 1980's the air pump was belt driven.

my 1973 impala did lock up on me.. so I removed it took it apart and removed the pump fins. then installed it ..

no computer no problem ..

on these LT1 engines the manifold check valves fail causing exhaust to go into the electrical air pump then the pump fails .. that is why I check the check valves every year pump still working no issues 96 impala..

I would have to get PCM programed so $120 for that not gonna do it..
 

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Phantom, If you have a TBI car you can use this Chevy 10129569: Smog Pump Eliminator Includes Bracket and Pulley | JEGS
Or take out the pump and use a different length belt. There have been posts on doing this in the past. Although I haven't put my engine together yet I bought the pulley and bracket. You keep the stock length belt and run the belt the same. Also it has a cleaner appearance. IMHO Another option I have researched is to gut the pump and run it.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Phantom, If you have a TBI car you can use this Chevy 10129569: Smog Pump Eliminator Includes Bracket and Pulley | JEGS
Or take out the pump and use a different length belt. There have been posts on doing this in the past. Although I haven't put my engine together yet I bought the pulley and bracket. You keep the stock length belt and run the belt the same. Also it has a cleaner appearance. IMHO Another option I have researched is to gut the pump and run it.

Mark: Snowman-33
gut the air pump.
 

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Thanks for all the input it's a 95 Cadillac just bought it last night and saw the tubes going in the manifolds and I believe one of them is leaking
 

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With '95 I believe one can delete by blocking the manifolds... Removing the relay,but leaving the fuse. Wading back through this thread should confirm this.
 

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I know this is an old thread and I did not read every post but what do you do about the missing pulley when you take the pump off do you need another belt or a pulley delete
The 91-93 fan belt can be rerouted to allow for the loss of the pulley. You need a different length belt as well. I would have to check the belt, and the routing. Another possibility is to get an idler pulley that bolts into the space for the air pump.

Here are the instructions I used:

Its very simple really, the whole trick lies in the belt routing. The stock setup in a clockwise manner: Tensioner, over the alternator, down to the power steering pump, under the crank, under and over the water pump, back to the ac compressor. The problem in just removing the pump with this belt routing is that the tensioner will interfere with the belt coming off of the water pump to the AC compressor.
To remedy the situation a different belt routing is necessary. Clockwise instead of having the belt coming off of the power steering pump going to the bottom of the crank, have it come up over the top of the water pump, back under the water pump then around the crank and off the bottom of the crank to the AC compressor. All of your accessories will turn as they did, and you will be able to remove the pollution pump. If this all sounds A little confusing, look at the picture below. Courtesy of MadMax
You will however need a longer belt, I used Dayco 965K6 belt. It is basically a 96.5" 6 rib belt. All parts stores stock just about every length of belt in every width. They should be able to find it using these numbers. If you have an under drive pulley you will need Dayco pn# 935K6 which is actually shorter than the stock belt by one inch.
 

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Thanks for all the input it's a 95 Cadillac just bought it last night and saw the tubes going in the manifolds and I believe one of them is leaking
possible for a quick fix use marine tex on the hole. give it 24 hrs to harden .. use a heat gun to increase cure time. I did this years ago worked for many years held up good.
 
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