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1995 V4P Fleetwood
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Old thread, I know. Rather than start a new one, I wanted to add to this with a few questions.

I am looking to tackle this along with home plate/first base delete very soon. The video below was linked in another SS thread. Seems like a pretty easy job. I am not going to remove the waterpump hoses (poor opti), since I should be able to reach everything just fine. My mechanical fan might get in the way a bit...


1. I have an early style 1995 manifold thread/nut setup.... The plug in the link below should be sufficient to screw into the existing threads, correct?
I plan on cutting the tubing off very close to the bolt so that I can stick a socket on there and wrench it off. Does anyone know what size the OEM is and what type of socket I'll need?

2.
What do you all use to plug the existing hole in the SStock airbox where the current air hose runs to? What size rubber plug would I need to seal that off? Wouldn't mind changing the airbox, but for now, the stock one is what I have.

3. How difficult is it to remove the passenger side tubing once you cut it from under the car (like the video shows)? I don't want to damage the plug wires in the car by pulling on it too much,

Am I missing anything else? I plan on cutting the tubing at bottom like the video shows.

Thanks a million!
 

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No, that plug will not be sufficient because it is standard SAE Thread and the manifold has METRIC threads. The correct part number to use for the correct thread pitch (M22-1.50) is listed on the very first page of this thread. I stuck a plug in the end of the hose on the air box. The line breaks off easily on the passenger side without harming the plug wires. Just be careful and pay attention while moving it.




 

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No, that plug will not be sufficient because it is standard SAE Thread and the manifold has METRIC threads. The correct part number to use for the correct thread pitch (M22-1.50) is listed on the very first page of this thread. I stuck a plug in the end of the hose on the air box. The line breaks off easily on the passenger side without harming the plug wires. Just be careful and pay attention while moving it.




Thanks for following up with me. I was confused because some said the plug I listed worked, but I also found the one you posted as well. Here is what I think you are talking about. Not a Dorman part, but is the M22-1.5.


I saw the tip about tightening the new nut down nice and snug and then re-tightening after a few engine cycles. Do you know what size socket would fit over the existing nut OEM assembly? I am going to soak it in some homemade penetrating fluid and then use an impact wrench to remove it. I want to be sure I have the correct size before I go cutting it; I suppose I could use a wrench to determine the exact size and then use that size socket.

I see how you left the rubber tubing. Is there a way to remove the tubing completely? If not, I will do what you did. What size/type plug is that?
 

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Thanks for following up with me. I was confused because some said the plug I listed worked, but I also found the one you posted as well. Here is what I think you are talking about. Not a Dorman part, but is the M22-1.5.


I saw the tip about tightening the new nut down nice and snug and then re-tightening after a few engine cycles. Do you know what size socket would fit over the existing nut OEM assembly? I am going to soak it in some homemade penetrating fluid and then use an impact wrench to remove it. I want to be sure I have the correct size before I go cutting it; I suppose I could use a wrench to determine the exact size and then use that size socket.

I see how you left the rubber tubing. Is there a way to remove the tubing completely? If not, I will do what you did. What size/type plug is that?
That looks like the plug I used and does have the correct threads.

You can remove the rubber tube but that leaves a hard plastic nipple. That is just a random plastic plug I found in a box at work. Most likely came out of a port on a hydraulic valve of some sort.

I still have my factory parts and a 7/8 wrench fits on the factory fitting.
 

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Great, thanks on the nut.

Any idea what the inside diameter might be or what others used to plug the hole? Seems that some sort of cheapo rubber plug would suffice as well.

7/8, wonderful thank you! You kept the factory tubing? You didn't cut the pipe to bits to remove it??
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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Any idea what the inside diameter might be or what others used to plug the hole? Seems that some sort of cheapo rubber plug would suffice as well.
Rubber vacuum caps are produced specifically for this purpose, and you can buy them online or at parts stores. I'm not sure of the exact size of the nipple on the air box, but just measure it with a tape measure and then buy the appropriate size. Often times you can buy a package of caps in several different sizes. You want something like this: Dorman Vacuum Caps 2251

Your other option is to use a breather filter: Crankcase Vent Breather Filters | K&N

Now, with that said, I would recommend just getting rid of the air box and replacing it with a cone filter that clamps onto your MAF.
 

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Thank you both for the details. I'll get the caps in preparation for plugging the airbox. Looks like local NAPA has the correct vacuum cap.

@Caddylack , I wouldn't mind doing that but don't really want to pay big money for a custom/racing airbox. I haven't found any homemade setup that seems easy and/or clean looking. Can you give me information on that particular project?

I know the factory airbox is fairly restrictive. Will changing it increase noise substantially, or am I just going to get positive air gains with no negative impact?
 

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I was poking around this evening and noticed this... Is this a coil? Seems I'll need to work around it to get the 3 10mm bolts holding the air pump on.


The video above shows them unplugging it and plugging it back in once I remove the bracket.
 

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Thank you both for the details. I'll get the caps in preparation for plugging the airbox. Looks like local NAPA has the correct vacuum cap.

@Caddylack , I wouldn't mind doing that but don't really want to pay big money for a custom/racing airbox. I haven't found any homemade setup that seems easy and/or clean looking. Can you give me information on that particular project?

I know the factory airbox is fairly restrictive. Will changing it increase noise substantially, or am I just going to get positive air gains with no negative impact?
Technically, you don't actually need an air box. Yes, lowering air temps helps performance, but you can absolutely just clamp a cone filter directly onto your MAF. Just go pick up a filter that you think looks pretty. It will increase performance and make your engine sound a little bit more muscley.

Delete the big "home plate" and plug the leftover hole in the intake elbow with a hockey puck. Delete the "first base" and replace it with either PVC or a universal chrome intake tube. Get creative.

And yeah, I'm pretty sure that's your coil. Unless I'm turned around.
 

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Technically, you don't actually need an air box. Yes, lowering air temps helps performance, but you can absolutely just clamp a cone filter directly onto your MAF. Just go pick up a filter that you think looks pretty. It will increase performance and make your engine sound a little bit more muscley.

Delete the big "home plate" and plug the leftover hole in the intake elbow with a hockey puck. Delete the "first base" and replace it with either PVC or a universal chrome intake tube. Get creative.

And yeah, I'm pretty sure that's your coil. Unless I'm turned around.
Interesting about clamping it straight on. Wouldn't the air filter just be floating in free air at that point with nothing supporting it? That's what I was worried about.

I saw someone make a redneck setup with a cheapo metal trashcan that they bent and formed into the correct shape. If I could find a local machinist, I could probably have them bend some aluminum into the correct shape.

On the Caddy forums, I am actually creating a thread about home/first delete. I can transfer it to here as well!

Great, the coil it is. I just have to work around the darned mechanical fan that hogs up space!
 

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The cone filter will just rest on top of your PCM.
 

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Alright gents, whenever I decide to tackle a project, I always find obstacles. Two questions below!

1. I was at the junkyard this past weekend and I noticed how difficult it was to remove the tack welded air line from the frame (passenger side). A lot of the front of the engine was removed, so I had access to see how it's set on there. How in the WORLD are you supposed to get the passenger side out without destroying stuff? It's on that bracket nice and tight and it's tucked way down/up into the engine bay. I don't think I can reach it with a cutting tool and there doesn't seem to be enough space to wiggle it to break it off. Any advice here?? I am not going to save the air line, so I can destroy it to get it out.

2. My big concern: Goldmaster's video was fantastic showing the cutoff wheel underneath the engine, seems easy. I was under the car tonight. ONE problem. The Caddy & Roadmaster have the steering linkage stabilizer piston and I think it blocks any good access I would have to use a grinder to cut through; haven't dry tested it yet, but spacing is tight. Not keen on grinding next to a bunch of metal pieces and tranny lines. Not really wanting to remove that piston, since it seems like it has tension on it and I don't think I could pull it back out and put it in place.

Any ideas on these? I REALLY appreciate the help.
 

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I used a large pair of wire cutting pliers to tear the tube in half and then removed each half.
 

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Yes but much bigger.

I now remember that when I did this to my current car is was while the car was down and the water pump, Opti, etc was all out of the way.
 

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Yes but much bigger.

I now remember that when I did this to my current car is was while the car was down and the water pump, Opti, etc was all out of the way.
I apologize for the delay! Life has been busy.

I actually bought a cutoff device for an oscillating tool, something like this:
194074


I think this will be sufficient to cut through the pipe in an extremely tight spot...

I am not going to remove OPTI Or anything. I'll have to remove my first base delete (PVC) to access the bolts and then I'll tackle it from there. Am I crazy trying it without removing other stuff? The videos look pretty straightforward...

Thanks!
 
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