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1995 V4P Fleetwood
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Alright gents! I finally did it this past weekend. I did not remove or disconnect any radiator hoses. The only thing that NEEDS to be removed is the air intake elbow. I have a tow pack on my car so I have less room to work with than most due to the mechanical beast of a fan. I did the entire job with the engine bone cold and had no issues.

3 bolts holding the air pump on were 10mm and I was able to access 2 of the 3 from the top of the car and the bottom from underneath. 3 14mm bolts for the air pump bracket were accessed from underneath as well with some LONG extensions and a universal joint socket. I ended up unplugging 2 of the spark plug wires (in the middle) on the OptiSpark to get access to the last bolt. All bolts removed with a cordless impact wrench; couldn't have done this without that.

With some wiggling and pushing of tubes and wires I was able to finagle the air pump out. The driver's side pipe pulls right out once you get rid of 14mm bolts. I had to make 1 cut on the passenger side tube to get it past the AC refrigerant tank. Once that's done, it pulls right out. I used the above oscillating cutoff tool to cut a few pieces of the air pipe. It dulled very easily, so I ended up using an angle grinder to make the final cut.

On the early style LT1 (94-95), 7/8 socket is the size of the existing bolt that goes into the exhaust manifold. The engine was bone cold and no PB Blaster or breaking fluid was used. I decided to use my air impact to remove these 2 bolts. Set the impact to "terminate" (highest setting) and blasted them right out. Got some light sparks from the rust as the bolt started to turn out. No issues whatsoever and they were removed intact.


This was a confidence building job for me and the engine looks WAY better. Hopefully it will be a bit cooler under the hood with the car's "appendix" removed. I hope my write up helps. Thanks to the above forum members for all of their help!
 

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With that done, now get rid of the mech fan, install a second electric fan and Garys cables, and you will really see your engine. Cooling does not suffer at all.
 
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1995 V4P Fleetwood
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141 Posts
With that done, now get rid of the mech fan, install a second electric fan and Garys cables, and you will really see your engine. Cooling does not suffer at all.
I would LOVE to. It robs horsepower and as you said, it's a huge space hog. Here's the catch:

I emailed Gary and he told me he's not sure how to hook the kit up to a D body. The fuse boxes are different and so is the cable length. He can make the cables a few feet longer (easily solvable), but with the two fuse boxes the Fleetwood has, I'm not sure how to tackle the issue. Electric stuff is above my pay grade.

If ANYONE here has information on how to do this or if I can send photos to the forum to help solve, I would be forever indebted to you all.

I want to let the LT1 finally be free of all the unnecessary accouterments!
 

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Chevy Caprice Classic 1996, 5.7 liter
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8 Posts
also.... i pulled mine off down to the manifold itself. so i used two oil pan plugs for a 2000 dodge dakota from napa to plug it up. fit perfect. i know there are other options out there (maybe cheaper too) but thats just what i found at the time.
goodluck
I just took mine off, in an attempt to clear out some space. Pretty easy, just know that the crossover pipe may have to be cut or just bend it back & forth until it breaks. Now, I don't know why, but there are folks online that will buy those bd boys so just don't chunk it.
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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1,163 Posts
Now, I don't know why, but there are folks online that will buy those bd boys so just don't chunk it.
Some states have inspections.
 

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I would like to add my experience with this mod. The poster that mentioned 1964 Jeep Gladiator 7/8-18 plug was right on for my 94 Caprice. However, the part number that was connected to it, wouldnt work at my O'Reilly's. The pn that did work is 65231 by oil-tite. Had to special order it about $5 each.
I also couldn't simply remove the relay. All sorts of crazy things happened so I just disconnected and put a dummy plug on the connector. All is good. No air pump and no codes.
 

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611 Posts
No need to remove the relay if it's a 94 or 95 LT1 car. No need to remove the air pump fuse either.It also feeds the under hood light.For 94/95 LT1 cars all that's needed is to remove all the hardware,pump,etc... and plug the exh manifolds. On all 96 models,and 95 L99/4.3 Caprice's, you'll need pcm recal/flash,after that you could remove the relay.
 

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Had mine disabled by Chevy dealer years ago for $40. Currently have pass side wheelhouse removed to cleaning up some wiring , and discovered not only did they remove the relay. They disassembled the underhood fuse center to cut/remove all the related wires at their terminals.
 
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