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Discussion Starter #1
OK I now have a hyd. press and already got the lowers out last night. But looking at the uppers???
What is the best way to take these out?
Short of the sawzall!

TIA-
Matt
 
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Discussion Starter #2
I didn't have a press, so I don't know how that might be done. Here's the more labor intensive way which wasn't all that bad...

1. Gain access to bushings.
Clamp shaft firmly in a vise and remove nuts and washers from both ends of shaft.

2. Make sure UCA rotates freely around shaft.
Shaft still in vise, squirt on some WD-40, grab UCA out near the ball joint and pivot the UCA back and forth until it rotates easily.

3. Start removing 1st bushing from INSIDE.
Shaft still in vise, loosen 1st bushing by striking the steel bushing sleeve with a blunt chisel. (At this point you are striking the bushing sleeve that protrudes on the INSIDE of the UCA -- that is the side that faces the center line of the UCA.) Strike multiple times all the way around the bushing sleeve (or as much as you can access) on the inside of the UCA. You don't want to deform the bushing sleeve, just loosen it and get it to move a tiny bit toward outside of the UCA. Try to hit at an angle to start pushing it out of the control arm (away from the center line). On the outside of the UCA, you'll start to see a little space open up between the bushing flange and the UCA's outside surface.

4. Finish removing 1st bushing from OUTSIDE.
Switch to a chisel which you've ground to a beveled edge -- about 45° on one side, flat on the other. Working on the OUTSIDE of the UCA, place the 45° side of the chisel edge flat against the UCA (i.e. trying to get it between the UCA and the bushing flange). Strike chisel multiple times all the way around the circumference of the bushing. The beveled chisel will start to lever the bushing out of the UCA, but won't damage the UCA unless you're really reckless. As the bushing moves out, you can start levering it more and driving more directly against the (now exposed) back of the bushing flange to free it from the UCA.

When the 1st bushing pops out the hard part is over.

4. Remove shaft.
With the 1st bushing out of the way, you can easily pull the shaft out of the 2nd bushing and set the shaft aside.

5. Hammer 2nd bushing out.
Support the end of UCA that contains the 2nd bushing, with the outside of the UCA facing the ground. Whack the bushing from the INSIDE a couple times with a big hammer and the bushing will come right out. Make sure to support UCA equally around bushing collar, so as not to bend the UCA.

-- Dan
'95 9C1
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Ed posted a link to these a while ago.

I have not tried them myself, but they should make the job easier. Ed, in case you see this, did you ever try these?
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by dbonser:
Ed posted a link to these a while ago.
That tool is for removing the Bushings in the Ears of the Rear-Axle of the Car. Dont know if it Works on the Front control arms also???
Read on at this Link, It will give you alot more details as to what you need to do!
Control arms bushing removal
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Doubt that tool would work for the front end.

If I were removing OEM bushings (from arms that were already off the car) and didn't have access to a press, I'd simply torch them out and then use channel locks to "crush" the shell that remains.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
My mistake - I didn't read far enough into the 2nd post.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe it's my mistake. I assumed the question was about the front control arms. Maybe it was about the rears.

In any event, my response was about the front suspension.

-- Dan
'95 9C1
 
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Discussion Starter #8
If I were removing OEM bushings (from arms that were already off the car) and didn't have access to a press, I'd simply torch them out and then use channel locks to "crush" the shell that remains.
That's how I do it! Works great.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
it is the fronts and I am a little wary of the torch method so i will have to just figure it out. BF**NHammertime :D :D :D
 
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