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Discussion Starter #1
Since I am stuck in the house for a while I decided to work on my 95 suspension. I want to remove the upper rear control arms but I cant see how to get a 21 mm wrench in to hold the nut. I can put my hand on the nut but the wrench doesnt seem to be able to get a good fit on it. Lastly when I put the weight on the suspension with the new one in place I would have to put the torque wrench on the bolt head rather than the nut. Is that going to give the proper torque. I tried the search function but it keeps timing out .
 

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First off, are you using Advanced Search after logging in? I've never experienced 'timing out' when searching. Adding tools required for special requirements or jobs is a necessary (some would say enjoyable) way of building one's collection. You may need to investigate options of alternate wrenches to what you own, - sockets (reg. and deepwell, with and w/out extensions), box-open (reg., stubbie and long), ratcheting boxes, even sawing a box-end and using another open as an extender - or just use a pipe cheater. You may have to remove something to get access to something else = v. common.

Jack the axle up/down if it gives better access. The torque lbs. are good for reference. But if having done any wrenching it's easy enough to hand gauge torque to +/- 20%. Tighten hard bushing connections only with full suspension load.
 

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I think I wedged a screw driver in with the nut. You will probably have to do the same when assembling. When tightening, once you get it to a point of tightening, it may just tighten by turning the bolt. The torque should be a little higher on the bolt side. The nut is a prevailing torque nut, and once tightened to a torque figure, it will keep that torque setting. It is suggested that you only use the nut for two tightenings.
 

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FSM?? o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I got the search working. Read lots of posts. Nobody seems to have the same question or issue I have. One used vice grips which I won’t try. I’ll have to try some different wrenches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it is the upper control arm forward nut. The nut is behind a steel panel. Hard to see. I can get my hand on it , not enough room to get a breaker bar and socket. I bought a 21mm wrench and the straight open side comes in at an angle that I don't feel comfortable with and the box end , although at an angle doesn't seem to fit either. When I did the search I reviewed about 15 pages of threads on changing out the rear control arms and not one said they had an issue with the nut. I have a lift so I am able to get under the car. Could be a wrench where the box end angles down and flattens out on the same plane as the wrench body would work . But I don't want to keep buying tools if I could get a answer.
 

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Take a pic if it displays your difficulty better. If the 'steel panel' is the muffler heat shield, then just remove it. A good rule is never to use an open end if at all possible to use the box end. Custom bend a wrench if it means getting proper seat on the fastener.
 

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Yep, don't be afraid to stick a wrench in a vise and shape it to your needs. In this case, you're just holding the nut. An open end will be fine and throw an impact wrench on the other side if you have. I had to do similar to hold the nut inside the front crossmember that holds those two angle shaped triangulation pieces. In past, they'd spin loose with the impact, but years of rust had me bending a combination wrench to slide the open end into the crossmember access hole. Left if be rather then straighten it back. Until new need comes up.
 

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There's a tool for every job. Crows head, flex head, wobble extension, etc. As someone posted, sounds like a good time to expand your tool selection.
 

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Yep, don't be afraid to stick a wrench in a vise and shape it to your needs. In this case, you're just holding the nut. An open end will be fine and throw an impact wrench on the other side if you have. I had to do similar to hold the nut inside the front crossmember that holds those two angle shaped triangulation pieces. In past, they'd spin loose with the impact, but years of rust had me bending a combination wrench to slide the open end into the crossmember access hole. Left if be rather then straighten it back. Until new need comes up.
An impact will not fit in that area. It is too close to the other parts.
 

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I solved the access problem for the front mounts of the rear UCAs by taking out the rear seat cushion. Used some careful measuring and a small drill bit from below to locate things, then used a hole saw to make suitable access holes to get a torque wrench and socket into place. Makes working on it MUCH more pleasant, if you don't mind sawing holes in the car. The nice thing is that you can loose-fit everything then torque them with the car on the ground at ride height. When done, I sealed them up with pieces of adhesive Dynamat-type stuff. Measuring/planning is critical to keep the holes to a minimum but correctly located to be able to put in and remove the wrench. If you want pics I can pull my rear seat to give a rough idea. Just post here to let me know.
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks seems like a good idea . I can measure it myself . Project has slowed right now because I want to change out the front sway bar and I am looking at the issues with the bolts for the brackets . Its interesting that when I did the search the results showed many people had changed out the rear control arms and nobody posted any concerns about the upper control arm access. I have also ordered a 21 mm ratchet wrench which pivots but haven't had time to get back to the project to see if that works.
 

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Next time underneath either of my rides for periodic eyeballing I'll be sure to have a look-see at what the difficulty may be. I do remember not being able to remember that much connected with R&R. Now about doing those the new axle ear bushings - that was one GD MF POS lifetime memorable trauma fersur. ;)

The UCAes were so unmemorable that I don't even recall having to use metrics. That far back ('99?) when I did the extendeds I know I didn't have nearly as complete a collection of larger sizes in sockets and/or box-opens that would have been needed if everything was metric.

I do specifically recall undoing the shock lowers to drop the rear for WAY more overall space to work. Did you two guys do that too and still have trouble?
 
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