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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had a defective EGR Valve which caused the engine/car to shake under light throttle while cruising. Just did this and will share "some" steps I took and what checks I did for both the EGR and the Solenoid.

EGR

Have a 95 Caprice so got the same year "95" EGR for a Camaro with Manual Trans which is AC Delco #214-5083 - GM #19210658 from RockAuto for $67 with ship $75ish. These F-body EGR's are known as a better option for our cars. You could also look up the correct part number for the B-body if you wish. Was going to get a new Solenoid too but it was another $50 and figured I’d get that local if it tested bad....more on that later. The solenoid is just a Valve that is triggered with a 12V signal to Open and with no signal is closed.

If you have a Vacuum Gauge...then you probably know how to use it to test these. :wink2: But for those that may not have a vacuum pump, I kept the mity-vac pump in the tool box and with the new Delco EGR, pressed the underside of the "lid" to open the valve. You'll feel it move but there's a strong spring that will want to push it back. You may also hear/feel air coming out of the vacuum port on the top of the EGR. ((Even my defective EGR would push air out though.)) Press the Diaphragm of the EGR in and put your finger on the vacuum port of the EGR. It should stay in until you release your finger. If it holds, then the Diaphragm is most likely ok. The old EGR when I did this just kept closing since the Diaphragm in it must be broken. Also noticed there was much more friction with the old valve when pressing the Diaphragm in.

The EGR Valve is mounted to the back of the Intake Manifold right below the Fuel Regulator and mounted with 2 - 1/2" Nuts on Studs so the EGR slides on/off the studs. It is controlled by the EGR Solenoid that on my car was mounted to the intake Manifold right below the #7 Fuel injector.

To remove :

* unplug the vacuum hose on top of the EGR. I used a Short 1/2" full box wrench to Slip over the Stud and then the nut and just got them from the top. You can't get a socket on these since they are under the lid. Careful not to drop the Nut's as you take them off the Studs.

* Just slide the old EGR Valve off the Studs toward the Firewall being careful of the fuel lines. I did consider removing these 2 Fuel Lines for more room but managed to work around them. These cars are 25+ YO and with the original fuel lines I just don't like to move them much unless I have to.

* There will also be a Gasket that will need to be removed. Mine was a Thick Metal type gasket with a Paper type coating. Most of it Slid right off but there will most likely be old gasket material still stuck to the Manifold Mount and will need to be scraped clean and flat.

* Cleaning the EGR Mount area is difficult since you cant see it and the stupid Studs are a PITA to scrape around. The end of the Studs have an External Torx Head (E-7) and I removed those from the Manifold. Now there a nice flat area to scrap and just reach around the fuel lines to clean the area well. You can pickup a E-Torx set at Harbor Freight for less than $10. The E4 and E5 socket also come in handy for Opti Repair. You may also be able to improvise with a standard Socket - 1/4", 5/16", etc.

* reverse to install. ** Dont forget the new Gasket. ** Also used a little anti-seize on the stud threads going into the Aluminum Manifold.


EGR Solenoid

On the Driver side of the intake right where the PCV valve is another Vacuum line with a 90* elbow that goes back to feed the Solenoid which is located at the rear corner of the top of the Intake Manifold. The solenoid has 2 Vacuum Ports and a single - 2 Wire Electrical connection. The vacuum hose from the manifold, goes into 1 of the ports of the solenoid and the other vacuum port of the solenoid has a hose that goes to the vacuum port of the EGR. This little bugger was about $35 for the Cheapo Autozone brand. But figured what the heck it's old, replace it. Had if off the car and ready to go buy a new 1 from local Parts store but none had it in stock so decided to test it.

The Solenoid (I believe) is controlled by the PCM. It is normally closed, but when activated, it opens and allows Vacuum thru to the EGR Valve. To test it, I just used my Battery Charger and set the amps low. First tried to blow air thru the solenoid with no power and it was closed. Connected a 12V and Ground to the 2 pins of the Connector, turned on the charger and could hear the Solenoid go “Click”. At this point while energized, I was able to blow air thru it so suspect it is fine. I did this a few times just to verify operation of the Solenoid. It’s a GM part and replaced it a while back so just going to keep it on there for now. If you need to remove it, there is a 14mm nut that secures it to the manifold and the bracket and solenoid come off as 1 piece.

Basic observation’s: Most difficult is getting hand room and getting the 2 nuts started on the Studs without dropping them. I did it all right from the top working from the Driver Side. I held the nut between my index and middle finger and got the nut over the stud. While keeping contact with the nut (so it won’t drop) I slowly tried to move it CW to get some threads started. I used my right hand to start the D/S nut and my Left hand to start the P/S nut. Managed to get them both started without dropping them at all. 0:) Biggest fear was dropping 1 and losing it into the Engine Bay Black Hole.
 

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Righteous write-up. It could almost be read as gratitude and giveback to errone pulling for you to snare that last little gremlin? Yours dovetails well with the shbox write-up, and it also has some pics for the "reading-impaired" among us.... :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Righteous write-up. It could almost be read as gratitude and giveback to errone pulling for you to snare that last little gremlin? Yours dovetails well with the shbox write-up, and it also has some pics for the "reading-impaired" among us.... :nerd:
I'll try to link up some of the SHBOX stuff to this thread later. F-Body sites are always a good resource for us.
 
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