Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I wanted to know if there is anyone that has done a hydroboost brake swap on are cars? Is this swap possible, If so what kind of vehicle did you use the booster from, how much did the swap cost, was it hard. Just trying to see if this would be a possibility. I have this setup on my silverado and my turbo buick and love it. Just thought it would be nice on a b-body.

Please let me know...

Thanks
Pernell
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,532 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
Why would you want to do this?
Power steering pump works hard enough as it is. YOu might have to boost pump output to make it work fairly well. Just a thought. Could be wrong or totally out in left field.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why would you want to do this?
Power steering pump works hard enough as it is. YOu might have to boost pump output to make it work fairly well. Just a thought. Could be wrong or totally out in left field.

I like the stopping power.. I have this setup on my turbo buick and my 06 hd silverado has it. The brakes to me feel way better then a vacume setup, better pedal....

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,753 Posts
I like the stopping power.. I have this setup on my turbo buick and my 06 hd silverado has it. The brakes to me feel way better then a vacume setup, better pedal....

Thanks
Not arguing with you on this just want to add my other two cents. My 96 GMC dually has that system & I prefer the vaccuum system over this one. But that is just me & I am used to driving vehicles with both systems. With the vac system I feel brake pedal response better than hydro system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,532 Posts
Stopping power = Hydroboost FTMFW

*end of subject*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,064 Posts
It doesn't compensate for the other inadequacies of the stock braking system, and it seems like that money could be better spent upgrading other parts of the system.
Stainless lines improve the feel of the stock system too, and are an extremely low cost mod.
I'm not saying its not a worthwhile mod, I'm just hoping anyone considering this has upgraded the other elements of the brake system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Just did this mod on a Scout that has an identical caliper setup as the Impala. Put you through the windshield stopping power! Pulled another Astro Van unit this weekend for the Impala. FYI there are two iterations of the booster in Astro Vans. One is slanted so the Master clears the hood, the other is straight and the master has a funky reservoir to clear the hood. I pulled one that's straight. Have not mocked it up yet to see if it's a straight swap.

Agreed stainless soft lines are a must. Larger rotors, calipers would be nice. Personally I'm not concerned with repeated stops ect. I'm also on stock rims. I just want more leverage to slow the sled down in case my right foot gets to excited.

dloc has indeed done this, he used a kit as opposed to DIY JY stuff. Kit looks expensive. I'm curious to see if I'll need a spacer to mount it to the firewall, and why I'm seeing it mounted upside down. Here's another pic he posted:

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=233642&page=2

Seems like the biggest trouble will be getting a pressure line to the unit. Would also be nice to find a PS reservoir with dual return inlets that drops in. I'm probably just going to run a T near the gearbox.

Search Pirate 4x4 and you'll find a thousand swaps like this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Looking at getting Pressure lines today. I believe we are working with all o-ring junk here. My Hydroboost unit is indeed o-ring. It appears the post 1980 units are all o-ring style.

We need to run a new pressure line from the pump to the hydroboost, and another from the hydroboost to the saginaw PS box.

Aside from o-ring vs flare I understand it that all the saginaw power steering stuff uses the same size fittings, as do the hydroboost. Confusing because when I look at flare fitting stuff I see standard fitting sizes and when I look at o-ring junk I see metric sizes. You can throw an adapter in an o-ring female end and run a flare fitting on it. If you need to do that these guys will send you the fittings. Pictured here: http://lee-powersteering.com/rebuild-misc.htm
Pressure 40620 $3.97
Return 40630 $3.97

Anyone shed more light on the flare vs o-ring fitting differences?

Each pressure line should have one 16MM X1.5 and one 18MM X1.5 connector.

Those connectors will have -6AN fittings on the other end, which will be used to connect them to the pressure hose.

The hose sizing should be #6 and needs 6AN connectors on the ends to connect to the 16mm and 18mm O-Ring connectors.

Looks like for the return lines all we need is some hose, clamps, and a "T".

Can anyone verify these pressure line fitting sizes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
bringing it from the dead stocker did you get to finish this and could you post some pics i was about to make a new thread but why not continue this one to make it a do it your self hydraboost sticky. instead of wasting $500-$800 on a predone kit why cant we build a low budget stock system and make our own lines for 10x less then that.

my biggest question is what is the normal psi output and how many gpm does our stock ps pump move? i spoke to someone who deals with lots of these hyd boost systems and he told me the hydraboost needs betwwen 1300-1600psi to be able to work the it and needs to move at least 2.2-2.8gpm does anyone know what are stock ps pumps are rated at?

also i was going to try to use a unit i had off a mid 80's gbody diesel but it appears the the length of the rod is way to short and will not work for the b-body unless i cut and weld a longer piece problem is this is an older unit which doesnt even come with an accumulator on it lol. the astro unit is more common and can be found at your local junkyards readily avail, and seem to have enough shaft to modify if its to long, i have found that some of these units the rod can be threaded in somewhat for some adjustment. also it needs to be the astro unit which has a straight mounting bracket pad and not the angled one as spoken bout before there are two versions, that being said STOCKER did the resiviors clear under the hood and does the angle work well on our cars?

i will also like to add that earls makes a majority of the ps fittings needed for this swap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,383 Posts
If my car doesn't sell I have a complete Astro setup to make work. FWIW, the CPP kit that dloc used on his car uses the same boost unit. The power steering pump puts out plenty for this to work. The only worry would be hard road racing where the pump is working really hard. But the only thing to do is make it work and try out out. Tad may have info or feedback from the chevelle or El Camino world
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
hey mike i figure the info on the a-bodys is good but i dontthink the unit they use on the a-bodys have shorter shaft similar to the gbody system.


im just trying to make a budget kit work, not to concerned about roadracing all i would do is e-way runs and 1/4 if anything. also great to hear that our ps pumps are adequate to pump it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
would be really great to make a write up for our cars on what unit to use and what fittings to buy to tie it into our stock ps system.

also to see if we would be able to re use our stock master cylinders instead of having to switch over to the astro unit which looks kind of akward, advantage to the ccw kit i guess is there nice master lol.

and do you remember what year(s) astro unit comes with a straight mounting base and not the angled slanted one?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,383 Posts
Yeah I can understand that, IIRC the Astro years are pre-95, at least that rings a bell. The pieces I got from the bone yard here looked great, i.e. just changed out before the van was scrapped. But you can get reman'd units they are about 150-200 bucks IIRC. I paid all of 25 bucks for what I got.

As far as the master cylinder, the stocker should work with out and issue. The firewall on our cars is relatively straight up and down so there shouldn't be an adapter that is needed using the Astro setup, the bolt holes should like right up. The master cylinders are going to have the same "snout" per say that mates to the boost unit.

If you look at the link that Tad posted above I am pretty sure that he had to weld an extension on the rod to make it work in the A body. Just looking at the unit I have in my shop, looks like the rod is the same length as the factory one.

I started to do alot of researchon the setup as the master cylinder I have in my car was pretty much made around the hyrdaboost unit. I started looking into lines and what not from early 90 Chevy trucks that had the units on them for length. Really it wouldn't be too difficult to do I don't think, just have to sit down and do it. ;)
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top