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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I broke this sensor during the header installation.



This is the passenger side. You can see that I broke off the plastic socket. The wires are still there.

1) What is this sensor?
2) Is it a pain to replace? Is there an glue that will hold the electrical socket to the sensor?
 

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Yeah temp sensor (gauge)

It shouldn't be hard to replace...not sure how fast the coolant comes out once its pulled...you might be able to swap it with a new one if you're quick
 

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Yeah temp sensor (gauge)

It shouldn't be hard to replace...not sure how fast the coolant comes out once its pulled...you might be able to swap it with a new one if you're quick
it rushes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is this the sensor that supplies the dashboard gauge?

Yeah, I've swapped coolant sensors that way on other cars. If I'm fast, there's not much of a mess. Now that I know what I need, I'm going to the parts store.

Thanks for the quick assistance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What a pain in the butt that was! The auto parts store gave me Borg Warner part # WT3000. I didn't check the plug before I screwed it into the head. They should have given me Borg Warner part # WT3025. I left the wrong part in the head and took the GM part to the store. Now I have the correct part in the head, and can make a third trip to the store for a refund.
 

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What a pain in the butt that was! The auto parts store gave me Borg Warner part # WT3000. I didn't check the plug before I screwed it into the head. They should have given me Borg Warner part # WT3025. I left the wrong part in the head and took the GM part to the store. Now I have the correct part in the head, and can make a third trip to the store for a refund.
Sounds like a typical repair!cwm6
 

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ditto i need to replace this mines broken the top off but the wires are still sticking out but i dont think the gauge reads correctly
 

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Nick, The problem is probably not with either the sender nor the wiring, but the gauge itself. I've had the gauge go bad on 2 of the 9C1's I've owned. Like you I first replaced the sender, and even upgraded to the dual output sender that goes into the waterpump and it didn't fix it. How I determined it was the gauge itself was I upgraded to the Z28 cluster in one of the cars and the temperature gauge read correctly. Though did the temperature gauge work properly before the sender got broken? The correct sender is GM part # 25037332 or 213-77 and uses connector part number 12126458 / PT728 though the 2 position connector 12102747 / PT374 should also work just would have to use only the connector on the right side (with the connector facing towards you with the locking tab pointed downward you can see pictures of the connectors on RockAuto.com to see what I am talking about). - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The temperature gauge worked fine before. I broke the sensor socket, and I had to re-route the wire. I may have been too rough getting that wire out of the harness. I'm guessing that, whatever broke, it was something that I touched.
 

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I would pick up a replacement connector and solder and heat shrink it into the the harness. With age, heat, and corrosion it doesn't take a lot to cause a failure of the wiring or the connector itself. They are a bit pricey but worth it(I just picked up the 3 way connector for the windshield wiper motor as all 3 wires on mine were starting to fray and should probably pick up one for the 4 way alternator connector as the housing of the connector is broke but it works for now and can always splice one in quickly in the future if need be). - Peter
 

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See if you are getting voltage to the connectors, one should be voltage the other is a ground. If you ground the connector with voltage on it, the gauge should go to maximum.
 

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You can get the wiring connectors from RockAuto, RMS Auto Parts, amongst other places. A few posts above this one I have the part numbers for them. The factory connector is a 1 position connector but if the 2 position connector is easier to find then you can use that one just would have to use the proper position of it (when the connector is facing towards you with the locking retainer pointing downwards its the pin on the right).

On the method that Carlton suggests for testing the wire, since there is only one wire stock with it just run a short piece of wire between the connector and the frame of the car to see if the gauge deflects. - Peter
 

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I think I have heard of only putting thread sealant on 1/2 the sensor, or on the inside part, so it still seals, but leaves some threads to ground.
 

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Ditto issue

i got the same sensor Burned out due to the headers.. but dont have no clue where the wire/hoses are going from or to the water pump or coolant res. part cost like 14.99 but the wire is like 70$! is this true or what guys
 
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