Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good Day Everyone. I’ve had an intermittent “starting” problem for years (maybe 7-8 years) on my 1995 Impala SS. It started just after I bought the car. The symptom is this: When I turn the key over from the “on” position to crank the engine, it will click. It’s that loud “ch” “ch” kind of click. I can turn the key from on a bunch of times until it grabs a connection and it will start eventually. I remember when I used to have to wait in parking lots sometimes as temperature or whatever would make it get it’s connection again. I’ve put a couple new starters in without the problem fixing. I’ve put a new starter relay in and still the same problem. I’ve wiggled wire/pressed on harnesses plugs while holding the key turned and nothing (I had another Chevy classic and that trick worked). Finally, I just jumped a fused hot wire with a toggle, spring loaded switch to bypass the headache. I turn key on, toggle and go every time. It’s never let me down. As we can See it’s not the starter. A new relay didn’t fix it. I’ve had a k5 blazer that had a worn column switch to the point when I took it apart, the contacts/slider thingys had worn holes in them. Lol. I fixed it. That’s how I discovered this fix long ago. That was a 74 K5 blazer. These columns are kind of the same. I didn’t think these 95 Impala columns would have the same slider switch but they do I seen now. My important question/s here is this:

1. Are there any other relays or boxes that have relays in them that can be giving me this problem that may be mimicking this column switch? Note: Remember, I’ve already changed the under hood fuse box relay and starter before with no fix.

2. I’ve purchased a new Starter Switch from Rock Auto Yesterday. (it’s in the packaged picture provided) Are these newer AC Delco switches any good? Has anyone had any bad experiences with these AC Delco switches as I seen one on Rock Auto for a Dollar and change more, made by Standard Motor Products? I’ve also provided a pic of my original switch. Note: I adjusted my existing switch (in pic) on its slotted holes ( on column ) to put it down towards the floor a sixteenth of an inch to “maybe” give it a different contact surface inside the switch. It seemed to maybe work better. Another note: ACC position never really stayed in place since I bought the car. Maybe this tells me the switch has always been bad? And that maybe I’ve been getting my half use out of this thing for all this time?

3. Are the original switches better? Is the Standard Motor Products better than AC Delco?


4. What is that green pin thing on the new switch for? Reminds me of a golf T

End
Notes: I purchased a new AC Delco, positive 3 line battery Cable and a new AC Delco, 2 line Ground Cable. I’m waiting for the positive cable to arrive. I don’t think this is my problem. I do not have “great”connections and my cables do have some corrosion creeping in the insulation. The reason why is because my car always cranks over with the toggle. All feedback welcome. Thanks...

D50A7B66-73BF-4FC1-A23E-32BCCA8B3F99.jpeg
23B6825B-75F8-49E1-A21C-06AC0F8E637A.jpeg
3E516CE2-4FEB-4828-8524-5DFE0CCAFA0C.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
Follow the yellow wire to the VATS relay and then to the starter and make sure it is undamaged.

Your picture brings up a new issue. The orange wire (ign 3) has a "Quick Tap" on it. This can damage the orange wire. If the yellow wire feeding off of it does not have a fuse within a inch or two you have a fire hazard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The wire feeding off of it goes to my Viper alarm box. The Alarm box is about15 inches or so away. The shop did that who installed my alarm. Is that really a potential fire hazard still being an alarm?
Follow the yellow wire to the VATS relay and then to the starter and make sure it is undamaged.

Your picture brings up a new issue. The orange wire (ign 3) has a "Quick Tap" on it. This can damage the orange wire. If the yellow wire feeding off of it does not have a fuse within a inch or two you have a fire hazard.
Follow the yellow wire to the VATS relay and then to the starter and make sure it is undamaged.

Your picture brings up a new issue. The orange wire (ign 3) has a "Quick Tap" on it. This can damage the orange wire. If the yellow wire feeding off of it does not have a fuse within a inch or two you have a fire hazard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
The orange wire coming out of the ignition switch is fused at 60A (Body 2 Fuse 11 in the Underhood Electrical Center) so if the alarm malfunctions and starts drawing 40 amps, it'll overheat the little yellow wire + the quick tap and start it on fire (which is actually the best thing that can happen to a quick tap in my opinion). If the little yellow wire had a fuse in it (at say 10 amps?), then if the alarm malfunctioned it would just blow the 10A fuse and no fire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The orange wire coming out of the ignition switch is fused at 60A (Body 2 Fuse 11 in the Underhood Electrical Center) so if the alarm malfunctions and starts drawing 40 amps, it'll overheat the little yellow wire + the quick tap and start it on fire (which is actually the best thing that can happen to a quick tap in my opinion). If the little yellow wire had a fuse in it (at say 10 amps?), then if the alarm malfunctioned it would just blow the 10A fuse and no fire.
Should I put a 10 amp fuse splice as close to that tap as possible?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
That would be good wiring practice in my opinion - Without knowing anything about your alarm I can't say what size fuse it should be. The wire looks like it's about 18 gauge (the orange wire is a 10 gauge) so that gives you a starting place but it really depends on the alarm itself. There are a few unused (and/or underused) circuits in the interior fuse panel in the dash by the drivers door. I'd much rather see a separate fused wire from there, but can appreciate that this isn't the easiest thing to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
The fuse protects the wire so when you add a small wire to a big wire the small wire needs a smaller fuse very close to the tap point. It does not mater what the wire powers.

I am with Fix Until Broke there are better ways of powering things than the ignition wires. The only time to play with the wires connected to the ignition switch block is a remote starter install or starter disable system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The fuse protects the wire so when you add a small wire to a big wire the small wire needs a smaller fuse very close to the tap point. It does not mater what the wire powers.

I am with Fix Until Broke there are better ways of powering things than the ignition wires. The only time to play with the wires connected to the ignition switch block is a remote starter install or starter disable system.
I hear what you guys are saying. Just after I bought the car, I was getting a limp mode problem with the transmission. I also was getting an intermittent misfire type symptom. One day when I burned some rubber and pushed the brake to a stop sign, It started missing at the stop sign at idle. Right then I felt like something under the dash was wrong because my foot hit those big ignition wires. Mine had been cut and spliced with connectors. I pulled in my driveway, went under there and felt the connectors and sure enough, I was able to reproduce the misfire with my hand. I reconnected it and never had the limp mode problem or misfire problem since. It was a current problem making the transmission and ignition act up.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top