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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi , so I am gonna eliminate the ignition switch altogether and make up a panel with big ole toggle switch's ....my kids will love it and the car is on its last legs. Wal Mart destroyed the switch and this 9c1 is headed for the junk pile. but before i do it will serve me for one more summer.
I have the column c1 and c2 connectors in hand. looking at the diagram in the factory electrical diagrams page 11-07-94 - section, 8a-10-3 it kind of looks like i could use 3 on/off toggle switches.... one each for the ORANGE , PINK, & BROWN AND Then a Momentary push button for yellow wire--- start circuit.

Just want to make sure that i should supply each one of those with 12 vdc and not ground. (edit: I think each circuit requires 12 v) but the factory manual is vague.

anyone done this?

Thanks
 

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Hate to burst your bubble but what you are suggesting is not simple or cheap.


Rock Auto has new ignition switches starting at $10. I expect a new one would be less than $40 locally.. If your lock cylinder is bad shopping around would get it replaced (with you doing some work) for under a $100.


The ignition switch is made up of 6 separate multi-position switches. Some use ground most use +12V. Some of these circuits require over 30 Amps. Cheap switches will burn out (most are 15Amp or less). So you would also need multiple relays. Simple switches and relays may not do the self tests that are normally preformed by the ignition switch.


To safely replace the ignition switch will cost you way more than fixing the OEM. Off the top of my head 3 switches, 8 relays, crimp connectors, and other shop supplies.



Just want to make sure that i should supply each one of those with 12 vdc and not ground. (edit: I think each circuit requires 12 v) but the factory manual is vague.
Some circuits need ground some need the specific +12V circuit designed to power each switch.



If you are not very sure how the ignition switch works and how to safely reconnect each circuit you are at risk of high currents starting a fire.



A NASCAR switch panel is connected to complicated circuits.As a example the battery relays they use to disconnect the battery cost about $300, but you just see a simple switch.
 

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I nearly did not click as the mod seems little more use than helping thieves. Glad I read as provides quite good intel - thanks ZO-



Now Globemaster, you know your way around an FSM, so sorry but just can't shake WTH you letting WalMart anywhere near your car. Do you really hate it that much??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yea, It was 20 below zero and i had to have some tires......I figured what could go wrong! My sons bronco project was stalled in the garage and I had no place to pull the tires off. The 9c1 is just beat to hell and 2nd gear is slipping,198000 miles and my wife is done with me having it and I don't have a place to park it. (I never drive my SS anymore cause i live in the middle of MT and main street is dead.)
The next phase is to make a daily driver out of my SS and enjoy it.....so the 9c1 is going to go.
 

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I figured as much. Spent 9C1 loses to wife = wise tack. Now I just hope she appreciates how much you must love her turning a "never driven" SS into a driver. In Montana.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
lol yep..wife .just banned my son from driving the nice car so now the beat to hell 9c1 "with a huge dent in the roof from a baseball' is on the list for repair. wife is on board....never lie to mom. any one know where i can get the linkage that connects the rod to the gear on the ignition switch? took the column down and found the problem.
Thanks....still think the original plan would have looked cool .....just dont want to go to the trouble of building up the 3 circuits that would handle the current.
 

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I may have one. Here is a picture of it.
 

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One of the dumbest GM designs ever. Basically unchanged for 30 years. Pot metal castings guaranteed to break at the worst time. I assume the new parts are better.
 

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One of the dumbest GM designs ever.
Basically unchanged for 30 years.
Maybe so, but you don't see anyone trying to replace the ignition on a 95 Honda Accord
because the cars themselves are all gone- crushed or in junk yard.

Nab
 

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Maybe so, but you don't see anyone trying to replace the ignition on a 95 Honda Accord
because the cars themselves are all gone- crushed or in junk yard.

Nab
Not sure what that has to do with our cars. BTW - I am the original owner of an 87 Accord LXI hatchback - never had any problem with the ignition switch...................... and very few other things obviously.
 

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I once just added a push button for starter on a junker winter beater that came to me with a busted column.
Easy peasy...cost was less than $20
Hid a toggle switch to kill power under the dash so more difficult for someone to just fire it up and drive away.
 

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That is part of the dimmer switch linkage for a tilt column
Gerry, thanks for clearing that up for me. I thought I had given some wrong info. I still believe the link I posted is correct for the OPs situation.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Not sure what that has to do with our cars. BTW - I am the original owner of an 87 Accord LXI hatchback - never had any problem with the ignition switch...................... and very few other things obviously.
My point, if I really have to state it, is that even though the poster claims our ignition switches are junk,
our cars are worth restoring unlike one of the FWD disposable cars from the 90s.

Nab
 

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That is part of the dimmer switch linkage for a tilt column
This is the part that breaks. the pot metal piece at the top of the rod thingy where the red arrow is pointing. You have to buy the whole assembly. It is now about $162+ to replace it. I bought one a few years ago for $75 but not anymore. If anyone knows a work around that would be great. I would love to have a push button starter button to replace this. I would keep the key cylinder and just use that to unlock the column and turn on the ignition with the key. Use the button for starter only. Anyone have any ideas on how to do that?

198420
 

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I would love to have a push button starter button to replace this. I would keep the key cylinder and just use that to unlock the column and turn on the ignition with the key. Use the button for starter only. Anyone have any ideas on how to do that?
The ignition switch is made up of 6 separate multi-position switches. Some use ground most use +12V. Some of these circuits require over 30 Amps. So you would also need multiple relays. A simple relays may not do the self tests that are normally preformed by the ignition switch.
When you rotate the ignition cylinder to start it shuts off some of the power to circuits and grounds other circuits to do a self check. You can use a relay and push switch on the starter circuit. Short version just adding a start switch will not allow the car to shut off most of the car's electrical while the starter is cranking and self checks will not occur.The six switches in the "ignition switch" are meant to cycle as you turn the key from run to start and back to run.

You do not see all the on/off action in a new car because it controls the circuits with the PCM.
 

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When you rotate the ignition cylinder to start it shuts off some of the power to circuits and grounds other circuits to do a self check. You can use a relay and push switch on the starter circuit. Short version just adding a start switch will not allow the car to shut off most of the car's electrical while the starter is cranking and self checks will not occur.The six switches in the "ignition switch" are meant to cycle as you turn the key from run to start and back to run.

You do not see all the on/off action in a new car because it controls the circuits with the PCM.
Gotcha!. Thanks for the details on the starting sequence for our cars.
So, hypothetically, if I were to set up a relay with a momentary push button on the dash to the battery and starter, what amperage should the relay be rated at? Should a fuse be used on the hot side? Fuse amperage?
It is not my intention to go ahead and do this unless the column linkage breaks again. Remember, the linkage would still work but the connection between the rod and the actuator would not work if this same breakage occurs again. Turning the key to run should still function to turn on the ignition.

In that case, my thinking is; I would retain the current stock setup and just turn ignition key to run(not all the way to start because the linkage at the head of the column would be broken and would not engage the starter switch at the bottom of the column anyway) which would turn on the ignition but then hit the starter button installed on the dash.

In that case what self checks would I be missing? Assuming I turn off the A/C before hitting the start button, will there be enough power to start the engine?

Does any of this make sense?
 

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If I recall right, the autostarter I added to the 91 had at least 12 gauge wire, maybe 10 and relay was a typical bosch 30 amp relay. It's a short splice when the relay is near the column. I don't recall a fuse. As you'd be tapping the already protected starter feed and basically shorting the stock switch function. Or run the heavy wire to a push button switch rated for the same current.
 
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