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If I recall right, the autostarter I added to the 91 had at least 12 gauge wire, maybe 10 and relay was a typical bosch 30 amp relay. It's a short splice when the relay is near the column. I don't recall a fuse. As you'd be tapping the already protected starter feed and basically shorting the stock switch function. Or run the heavy wire to a push button switch rated for the same current.
To keep it simple, I was thinking of running a direct 10 gauge line from the + battery to the the high amp side of the relay (high amp relay) then to the starter. Then run a 14gauge trigger wire from a hot fused source under the dash to the "start" button (momentary on) on the dash then to the relay. With that setup I would probably need a fuse between the relay and battery on the 10 gauge line. That way I don't have to mess with the column mounted ignition switch. The key would still function to unlock the steering wheel and turn on the ignition but not to start the engine.
 

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There's really no messing with the column switch itself. The harness is all you slice into.

A 20 gauge would be more than sufficient for your trigger wire if you go your route. And would make for easier penetration thru the firewall somewhere.
 

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It is not my intention to go ahead and do this unless the column linkage breaks again. Remember, the linkage would still work but the connection between the rod and the actuator would not work if this same breakage occurs again. Turning the key to run should still function to turn on the ignition.
Does any of this make sense?
All six switches are in the same package and are moved by the same linkage from the lock cylinder. It is unlikely that any function will work with a broken linkage

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HighLowSW4.jpg
 
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