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Discussion Starter #1
Mods help me if this is in the wrong location.

I get the Imp home, let her run for 10 min. and she is wineing and squeeling.

Its cold outside so I didn't lay on the ground for too long, but my power steering is leakin from the gear box.

I have nothin left in the resevour.

It is pretty nasty/rusty. Would like to get somethin new.

Where can I buy new hoses and gear box?

Reman?

NAPA?

Use something different from somethin else? F-body?

What do you guys do when this crap goes?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Alright, maybe this is in the wrong spot.

Well I'm gonna get a new gear box, in hose and out hose,.. its leakin pretty bad.

So to make things worse....

Can someone tell me how to disarm the airbag so I dont blow it changing the box out.

Anyone do this already?

What else should I replace when I do it.
 

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You've posted in the right area....

At this point, I would only recommend a reman or new steering gear. It doesn't make sense to take another used steering gear unit with unknown history--but probably as old or older than the unit now on your car--and just bolt it in without knowing it's a good piece. That's a risky and unnecessary situation, IMO. A gear from a different vehicle (not a same year or series B-body) will probably not have the same specific valving or internal stops that are in the OE gear, or even the same ratio.

You don't need to disarm the airbag--you're not going to move the steering column. In fact, you want to keep the column from rotating while you have the steering disconnected, to protect the clock spring in the SIR coil that is part of the airbag system.

You will need to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the base of the steering column (under hood) where the rubber-booted flex-joint is mated to the lower end of the column as it passes through the firewall.

The other end of the intermediate shaft gets removed from the steering gear splined shaft, just below (forward of) the "rag" joint. Be careful to note the position of the joint in relation to the splines, and make sure the new unit is installed in the same position--take a picture if you can to be sure the splines go back on exactly in the same location.

If you ran out of fluid, it could have wounded the pump, too. Sounds like the system was heavily contamiated, so you would do well to pull the reservoir and clean it, or, ideally, get a replacement. You may end up having to replace the pump, but at least do a static flush--do NOT connect the pressure hose (old or new) to the (new) steering gear until you've done all you can to flush through the pump with clean fluid, then replace the pressure hose and connect it to the steering gear.

Information below is 1994-1996 only.

New pressure & return lines are a good plan.

Gates Rubber hose information:
Power Steering Hose
Pressure
Pressure Line Assembly 367690

Return; W/Cooler
Return Line Assembly 370560

Return; W/O Cooler
Return Line Assembly 360940

Notice the similarity of the ACDelco & Gates numbers!

GM pressure hose (N40 - Chevy, or Buick w/o NV7) w/LT1/L99 engines
ACDelco Part # 36-367690
Steering Pressure Hose
GM# 19147855

GM pressure hose (NV7 - Buick/Cadillac only)
ACDelco Part # 36-368550
GM# 19147923

GM return hose w/cooler
ACDelco Part # 36-370560
Steering Return Hose (w/ Cooler)
GM# 19148077

There are other suppliers of PS hoses, in case these aren't options available to you. Check Rock Auto.

In your location, consider using GM cold-climate PS fluid
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks alot for the info Navy Lifer!

I am going to get all brand new parts, except for the reservior and pump for now.
Prob gonna get it from NAPA.

P/S gear box NSP 88278113
pressure hose NPS 72505
return hose NPS 72847
Bought some fluild last night to check for sure where the leak is, didn't see cold wheather type will look again and ask.

It ran for 10 minutes in front of my watch while it decided to leak all over. I shut it off as soon as it was making the wierd squeeling sounds and then realized it was leaking.

I will flush the whole thing out, definatly.

If I dont need to disconnect the airbag stuff, what about if I swap out the wheel?

Also, when I make sure the splines go back in the same location on the new one, is there anyway to tell if it is at zero, or the wheels would be straight, what other landmarks am I looking for to make sure the new gear box is at the same point the old one is/was when it was pulled.
I'll take pics and maybe permanent marker if needed to match and line it up again.

Thanks!!
 

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Swapping out the wheel WILL involve the SIR (airbag) system. Has to be deactivated--properly.

As far as "zero" on the steering gear connections, the spline connections have double flats, and you should be able to match them up pretty easily. Match marking in some way is always a good plan.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is an update.

I bought the parts listed above from NAPA.
I have the front end up on jacks, etc..
Located hoses and removed straps.
Removed return hose from reservor.
Pluged the reservor return fitting.
Return hose from gear box is in a big pan.
I can turn the wheels with the car off and it will cycle the fluid through.
I think this is the safest method, fill reservor when its low and continue.
It is the most time consuming as well.
I also tried running the car to cycle fluid, but that cycles too fast and I dont wanna chance runnin the pump dry.
So I'll take my time.
Had to buy more fluid since 2 quarts wasnt enough to run clear yet, but looks like I'm real close.
I let the car sit overnight and bought more fluid this morning, I wanna see if more stuff will settle and notice it come out dirty when I cycle today.
The only hose or item I'm not replacing is the reservor and the supply hose from the reservor to the pump, those look good yet.
Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the alt and possibly some other things to get my paws on the fittings to the pump, I'm gonna do more investigating.
Thats where I'm at, more updates to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I marked the return and pressure, but the marker came off of the tape.
Can anyone post a pic of there steering gear with the in/out and include the pressure sensor in the picture.
I'm 99% sure I have mine backwards.
I have no pressure and when I start it it idols down, maybe from pressure building up, almost wants to kill. I only ran it for 10-20 seconds twice.
Would like pics so I know if its right or not, I might have other things happenin.
I know I have a oil leak, maybe the front seal, as well as I need to replace the water pump.:mad:
 

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"Navy Lifer" is that a Caprice B-Body assembly manual or parts manual , you posted? Could I print all 25xx pages ?
 

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It's the 91-96 Chevy B-body parts book. You can print it, but why? It's online, seems like a waste of trees and printer ink, but have at it!

It's not up-to-date, by the way, so you would still need to confirm an item from a current source. Many items--most, in fact--are discontinued and no longer available. Drivetrain stuff is where you're going to find a greater chance that something is still available, but PN's have changed in many cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 2 ports on the gear are not the same size, so I don't think you can get them crossed up, anyway....one is 16mm and the other is 18mm.
The 'nut' at the top are different sizes like you said, but the threads are the same size.
I started them both by hand til about half to 3/4 into the unit and continued with a open wrench.
I know I didn't force them in.

That pic is a big help, I indeed have them backwards.
Thanks again for all your help Navy Lifer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
http://www.9c1.net/9196 BBody Parts Manual/9196 BBody Parts Manual/html/9196 BBody Parts Manual.html

page 1191

I had it right, I tried to swap them and there is no way in hell I can move the pressure line over to the driver side unless I bend the hell out of it.

I think I need a pump, I think the whole sh!t took a dump on me.
It took 5-6 quarts to clean that pig out, might be a good sign.
I have the gear box and the 2 lines to it replaced.
Now to get a new pump and hose from reservor to pump, then it will be a complete job under 500 bux.

Can someone confirm the location of the coil wire on the optispark plz..
 

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Will the return line with the cooler work in an impala, or did the 9c1s have an additional bracket or something to support the extra tubing? I was going to replace mine anyways when I put the new gear box in, so if it's just a $3 upgrade and bolts in the same I figured it might be worth it...
 
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