Impala ss rear?
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The picture is a little grainy but most of that looks like surface rust, not rot. There's $200 in parts there, but obviously you'll need to put some elbow grease in to get it cleaned up and usable. I'd want to make sure that water didn't get inside. Plan to rebuild or replace the rear calipers, turn or replace the rotors, and maybe the rear brake lines.
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Looks workable to me. A little sand blasting and anti corrosion sealant should fix most of it. All of it can be "fixed" with some elbow grease, and a few bucks.
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Have you ever rebuilt a rear? You need some specialty tools: Yoke holder, dial gauge, inch lb torque wrench, and the usual compliment of bearing and seal removers/installers. You can use a 0.038-0.042 inch pinion shim, and it will be right the first time. Follow the instructions in the FSM, and you will get a good quiet rear.
Thanks for the advice. Never built a rear, have the service manuals and a friend who’s built a bunch if I get into trouble. But I already have most of the tools needed. Only need a yoke holder. Been collecting tools for the last 30 years 😁
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5,528 Posts
Someone with better eyes might be able to tell if that is an Impala diff or a 9C1, I can't.
Impala 1598mm - wide
Buick sedan 1566mm - narrow
I do not first hand know how much room the stock Buick has, but this could affect wheel tire choices if you are doing anything other than skinny factory.
Shims , ,, no comment
Impala 1598mm - wide
Buick sedan 1566mm - narrow
I do not first hand know how much room the stock Buick has, but this could affect wheel tire choices if you are doing anything other than skinny factory.
Shims , ,, no comment
Good catch! Thank you. After talking to the seller. It is in fact a 96 police rear. Hopefully it works.He had it listed as a 96 impala ss rear.
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5,528 Posts
Double edged sword I guess.
Same width as your Buick housing , good
More chance of high milage , or abuse . bad
One check you can do if you can get the diff to turn ( might have to pull calipers)
Put a pair of wheels and tires on it.
Block both tires front and back.
Put a tape measure across one tire to the other.
Have someone rotate the actual housing around a full rotation.
If the tape measure moves a noticeable amount, the housing is bent.
This test checks housing, not wheels or axles.
Noting where the max-min is you can figure out if it is camber or toe , plus or minus.
If it is bent, renegotiate,and use the parts on your diff .
Same width as your Buick housing , good
More chance of high milage , or abuse . bad
One check you can do if you can get the diff to turn ( might have to pull calipers)
Put a pair of wheels and tires on it.
Block both tires front and back.
Put a tape measure across one tire to the other.
Have someone rotate the actual housing around a full rotation.
If the tape measure moves a noticeable amount, the housing is bent.
This test checks housing, not wheels or axles.
Noting where the max-min is you can figure out if it is camber or toe , plus or minus.
If it is bent, renegotiate,and use the parts on your diff .
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11,703 Posts
Either will work, the wheel well is plenty big as long as you are not going crazy on tire size. If you want a good yoke tool, JEGS has them for under $30. You will need a piece of pipe to slip over/in it for leverage. If you buy more than $100 they ship for free. Amazon may have them as well with no shipping charge. Make sure it has a good thickness of the plate. Some people have twisted the thin ones.
To check the LSD, put a torque wrench on one side, have someone hold the other, and it should be a minimum of 50 lb ft.
To check the LSD, put a torque wrench on one side, have someone hold the other, and it should be a minimum of 50 lb ft.
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3,365 Posts
Note that G80 limited slip was an option on 9C1, many people think they came standard with posi. Gears were also different depending on L99 or LT1 (LT1s got 3.08s).
If I were buying, I would take the diff cover off for a few reasons:
If I were buying, I would take the diff cover off for a few reasons:
- confirm condition of gears (no rust/chips/broken parts)
- gear ratio (count teeth, but numbers stamped on edge of ring)
- you'll see if there is posi (if the tag is gone from the cover)
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The rear should have a tag on it designating it as a posi rear.
Thank you for the tips👍 Plan is to totally rebuild it while I’m still using the car to commute. So if it doesn’t have a posi, it’ll give me an excuse to get a Truetrac. Mainly want it for the brakes.
Figured this would be a cheaper way to go rather than getting a moser rear. I priced one on their site and it was kinda hateful😂
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+1 on the TrueTrac. Wiped out many of the stock Auburn units over the years. I always liked Eaton diffs (conventional clutch ones). Stronger than the Auburns. But...then I put a TrueTrac in as an experiment in one of my cars. Best thing I ever did. Going on 5+ years of winter abuse and summer fun, and not a peep of noise, locks perfectly on snow and ice. Can get a little scary on water if you aren't used to it since it's less "limited slip" and more like "limited lock".
If it's from a 9C1 car, best to assume the Auburn diff is toast. I'd just upgrade it anyways. You can smoke these stock Auburns with one uneven burnout, especially on snow, water, gravel, when the moon is full, or when the day is bright. You get my point. Throw 3.42 or 3.73 gears in it, get a new ABS reluctor, reprogram the computer and have even more fun!
These cars really wake up with 3.42 gears (or more) and a tune.
If it's from a 9C1 car, best to assume the Auburn diff is toast. I'd just upgrade it anyways. You can smoke these stock Auburns with one uneven burnout, especially on snow, water, gravel, when the moon is full, or when the day is bright. You get my point. Throw 3.42 or 3.73 gears in it, get a new ABS reluctor, reprogram the computer and have even more fun!
These cars really wake up with 3.42 gears (or more) and a tune.
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35 Posts
Does it have functional emergency brakes? If not, some of those replacement parts can be found in the catalog under "Hen's Teeth" and "Unicorns". IMO the original design is marginal and an afterthought, but it's still better than nothing. Getting them to work properly in the rear end you bought could be a challenge. Good luck!
Why it has leaf spring?!,is it out of the truck?
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Coil spring mounts on the top.
Would you happen to know what exactly is listed under hens teeth and Unicorns?
Got the rear home. It is a posi. Has the stainless tag saying use additive. The unit appears to be good. I had my son help with the torque wrench on the lug nut like Frank mentioned earlier in the post.
The bad is, the ebrakes are non existent under the rotors. Nothing is there. So I’ll do some digging and look for the hens teeth and unicorn tears 😁 or figure something out. Only need the ebrakes for inspection. Thanks for all the help!
The bad is, the ebrakes are non existent under the rotors. Nothing is there. So I’ll do some digging and look for the hens teeth and unicorn tears 😁 or figure something out. Only need the ebrakes for inspection. Thanks for all the help!
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