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I've been (very) slowly working on this install for months. Figured I'd post some pictures while I still remember what I've done.

It's my first such install and I'm very picky on how the final product will look. I've seen a lot of installs on here that just don't "flow" or look like they belong in the car, despite having a lot of sweat hours put into them. I've always been very impressed by Steve Cornell's work, and am striving to have a finished product that meets a similar aesthetic. As such, the plan is to panel and upholster the trunk to look stock (carpet and vinyl) and keep the interior looking "bone stock" minus the head unit and a grilled vent for the subwoofers. Another goal is to make sure the car keeps the stereo in and road noise out.

The component list is as follows:
</font>
  • Pioneer Premier DEH-880prs</font>
  • eD Nine.4 amp (for tweeters, mid-bass)</font>
  • eD Nine.2x (bridged for subs)</font>
  • (2) eD 13Ov.2 subs</font>
  • Focal Polyglass 165V2S component set</font>
The day I started removing stuff turned out to be exactly 11 years to the day after the lower cushion for the rear seat was manufactured.




It was also the first time the spare had been removed from the car.




The interior was stripped - save the headliner, a-pillars, and dash top.








I put down: (2) layers of dampner (RAAMat brand) to the floor & bulkhead, (1) layer to the outer door skins, (1) layer to each side of the inner door skin, (1) layer to the B-pillars, and (2) layers to the C-pillars. I'm waiting to do the rear deck until I've finalized a design for the sub venting.






I also cut, bent, and bead rolled panels to cover the gaps that are present in the bulkhead between the trunk and cabin, as well as all the various holes in the doors. The ones in the doors are going to be screwed in allowing for easy removal, while the ones on the bulkhead are rivited. I put some thin strips of foam between the panels and the sheetmetal they contact to help eliminate any possible sources of buzzing and air-leakage. These were (or will be) also covered with layers damper and foam.

[ 10-25-2006, 09:08 PM: Message edited by: threeimpalas ]
 
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I don't have any photos of it, but once all that was down, a layer of foam was applied to the floor and B-pillars. It'll also be put on the doors and backside of the door panels once those are done.

Dash wise, I decided to make my own head-unit install kit, as I wanted to flush mount the DEH-p880PRS as much as possible. The bezel for the head-unit has been removed, and I cut a piece of ABS to surround it with a tight fit.










I also mounted the iPod interface unit to the right of the parking brake release. It's just barely small enough to fit behind the plastic dash piece. I'm still undecided how I'm going to hold my iPod - may wind up modifying the ash tray so that it can be hidden from sight.




Wiring wise, I've built all new power cabling using welding cable instead of the standard audio company power wire because I think it looks better (I hate clear jacketing), has a higher temperature rating, and is still flexible.

Gauges used are as follows:
</font>
  • Starter to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
  • Alternator to distribution (2 ga)</font>
  • Fuse box to distribution (2 ga)</font>
  • Distribution to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
  • Distribution to amps (1/0 ga)</font>
  • Ground to battery (1/0 ga)</font>
The power cable to the amplifier is routed from a distribution stud, under the overflow tank, over the wheel house to a fuse holder, then down the wheelhouse and along the frame to the trunk. The fuse holder is a KnuKonceptz brand, which isn't really all that great in the quality department, IMHO, but works. I painted it black to hide it since it was a huge transparent plastic thing, and hid it behind the evaporator hosing.






The power cable enters the trunk above the rear differential. I ran it this way because it was much easier than trying to poke it through the firewall and running it under the carpet. It also helps to isolate/eliminate any EMI effects it may have on the stereo-amp interconnects and speaker wiring.



[ 10-25-2006, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: threeimpalas ]
 
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My current project is construction of the sub box and speaker plates. The box is going to be a sealed design with a bit over 1 ft^3 per subwoofer, and will be "vented" through the rear deck. I've tried to maximize the design and make is "floor fitting" as possible.








The speaker plates are based on the good ol' forum template. I'll be fiber-glassing in the whipped topping cup to serve as some weather protection, not to act as a sealed enclosure. I might try to turn it aperiodic and route the board to aim the speaker better if I'm feeling frisky. The tweeter will mount in the yet-to-be-routed area.






That's where the project stands as of now. I'll keep taking pictures and eventually get the thing finished - hopefully by the time the car comes back out after the winter.
 
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Why are you doing such a half assed job? :D

Looks *really* nice.
Your car looks new under that carpet!

Just remember: They are the only ears you are gonna have.
 
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That's coming along really nicely, Mike! I like what you did with the head unit. Looks clean!

I plan on doing something similar (sound deadening, speaker plate in doors, re-route wiring to trunk, and clean up the free-air mounting in the trunk) with mine if I can find a garage to work on it in this winter.

Keep up the good work and keep taking pics! :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Damn.... that's going to be really niiiiice !

Keep us updated...
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Damn that is some very nice work. I like how everything was ran and tied together nice and neat. Can't wait to see more. Keep it up.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Wow!!

Keep up the good man. Keep taking pics too, I look forward to seeing the finished product :D
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Nice, I love to see car audio being done right! I'm gonna follow this thread closely for tips and details.
 
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HELL YEA!!!! That sh*t is tizzite!!!!!


And I'm loving the house hold products assistance as well, you know, the whipped cream tub, the chair.... that's greatness


Keep us posted!!!!!!!!
 
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thats nice and clean. Which way will the subs fire?

Umm never mind I saw you web page.
 
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Originally posted by JAYO96SS:
...I'm gonna follow this thread closely for tips and details.
Uhh... tips? You sure about that? This is my cherry poppin' experience, you know.


Originally posted by Cracka Ass Crackuh.:
...And I'm loving the house hold products assistance as well, you know, the whipped cream tub, the chair.... that's greatness
You would've like the tow-strap action I had going on when I was trying to keep the joints tight while screwing the box pieces together - didn't have enough free clamps!
 
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Originally posted by threeimpalas:
My current project is construction of the sub box and speaker plates. The box is going to be a sealed design with a bit over 1 ft^3 per subwoofer, and will be "vented" through the rear deck. I've tried to maximize the design and make is "floor fitting" as possible.








The speaker plates are based on the good ol' forum template. I'll be fiber-glassing in the whipped topping cup to serve as some weather protection, not to act as a sealed enclosure. I might try to turn it aperiodic and route the board to aim the speaker better if I'm feeling frisky. The tweeter will mount in the yet-to-be-routed area.






That's where the project stands as of now. I'll keep taking pictures and eventually get the thing finished - hopefully by the time the car comes back out after the winter.
If you could go back and try to make a diagram of all the measurements on the box you made. Looks really good very form fitting. It will help everyone (me) out to make a box that fits in the small space under the deck. I have the same feeling as you when it comes to that perfect fit. I just did my sound denting material lay down. How much did you end up paying for all the materials? I used 80 square feet and $260 and it was only enough to get the rear deck and floor. My next project is to mount an air tank and audio system amplifiers to the underside of the trunk and replace the bars with air cylinders to swang the trunk. Great job Keep us posted.
 
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Originally posted by WhiteChocolate:
If you could go back and try to make a diagram of all the measurements on the box you made. Looks really good very form fitting. It will help everyone (me) out to make a box that fits in the small space under the deck...

...How much did you end up paying for all the materials? I used 80 square feet and $260 and it was only enough to get the rear deck and floor.
I'll take measurements once it's completed and I'm sure it fits exactly as intended. As far as materials go, I used two entire rolls of damper + a bit of a third to cover the interior. I suspect the trunk will take the remainder of the third roll. Each roll is 62.5 sq ft and $110/roll.
 
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Originally posted by threeimpalas:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by WhiteChocolate:
If you could go back and try to make a diagram of all the measurements on the box you made. Looks really good very form fitting. It will help everyone (me) out to make a box that fits in the small space under the deck...

...How much did you end up paying for all the materials? I used 80 square feet and $260 and it was only enough to get the rear deck and floor.
I'll take measurements once it's completed and I'm sure it fits exactly as intended. As far as materials go, I used two entire rolls of damper + a bit of a third to cover the interior. I suspect the trunk will take the remainder of the third roll. Each roll is 62.5 sq ft and $110/roll. </font>[/QUOTE]I second that i want a box like this in my trunk .so if you colud please measure this stuff >so those of us who are having trouble with it can getthe help we so need
 
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Discussion Starter #19
About how many feet of Cable did you use to go under the car?
 
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Originally posted by WrongKind:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by threeimpalas:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by WhiteChocolate:
If you could go back and try to make a diagram of all the measurements on the box you made. Looks really good very form fitting. It will help everyone (me) out to make a box that fits in the small space under the deck...

...How much did you end up paying for all the materials? I used 80 square feet and $260 and it was only enough to get the rear deck and floor.
I'll take measurements once it's completed and I'm sure it fits exactly as intended. As far as materials go, I used two entire rolls of damper + a bit of a third to cover the interior. I suspect the trunk will take the remainder of the third roll. Each roll is 62.5 sq ft and $110/roll. </font>[/QUOTE]I second that i want a box like this in my trunk .so if you colud please measure this stuff >so those of us who are having trouble with it can getthe help we so need </font>[/QUOTE]I 3rd that
 
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