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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im thinking about getting the HA bar pretty soon.after that im gonna order the mounting hardware for it,after that,im clueless!LOL is this a fairly easy mod to do,or does it reqire a proffessional?also,i hear the stock control arms (or trailing arms are they the same thing?!) are weak and might get damaged,do i absolutely HAVE to buy new ones or will the stock ones work fine?any other tips and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated THANKS!

BTW Im also getting the f-body front Sway bar as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The rear HA bar will go on with no additionl hardware. But longer up gradeed bolts are a great idea. I have arounf 12K on mine and I have the stock bolts ad nuts. I did not change the trailing amrs but would like too.

There was some debate about putyting rubber in there but as far as I'm conserned performance suspention groans :)

TAD out
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you don't flog the car the stock trailing arms should work. I autocross and after about one season the right trailing arm was cracked (at least that's when I noticed it...)

Grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Go to www.b-body.net technical and then suspension. It will give you the part numbers for the GM bolts you need. Make sure you check it after a few days of driving (mine came loose) and you might also want to use loctite.

I also used the same material that is used to keep leaf springs from squeaking between the bar and trailing arm.

Brandon
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do NOT do this one on the stock arms! They are simply too weak. Those "noises" that Brandon heard (and "solved" with the material) is because those hunk-o-crap stock arms are so weak they are FLEXING (and groaning) every time you stress the suspension! It's a disaster waiting to happen (can you say, arm cracking in half and making it "fun time" to get to the side of the freeway WITHOUT hitting any other cars or the walls....).

Wait till you get the better arms. On a budget, I'd go with stock-length BMR lower arms. They are well built, and priced right (I think about $160 or so delivered thru Mike at No Limits).

Once you have the arms, post on here. I'll gladly come over some night (or have you come over to my place or GForceSS' place or something) and help you throw in the arms and new rear bar. It'll take only about 1.5-2 hours total, and it'll transform the car guaranteed!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The HA rear bar can be obtained from Malibu performance (818)222-6725, Ask for Ken. They're getting $179

Anyone looking for the F-body front bar it's available from National Parts Depot for $99.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do not use the stock arms! If you drag race at all, or raod race, you will break or at least bend the arms. Uppers do not need to be changed if you don't want. The 95 OEM lowers are MUCH better than the 96's. I think the 94's are the same as the 95's but none of them can stand too much abuse. Spend the cash and get some good aftermarket ones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anybody have pics of the front HA bar install I did the back, I'm having someone else install the front. I do have the direction from the IGBA. A couple of pics would help. Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I agree with everybody else on here. The stock rear lowers SUCK!!!!!! I was foolish and went ahead in installing the HO rear bar with the F-body front about a year ago. Well, my driver's side lower is giving up the ghost. First, the rear bolt pulled through the arm. It rattled around for a while until I temporarily "fixed" this with a longer bolt and some bumper shims. Now the front bolt is pulling through and rattling around. I also noticed the bumper shim is pulling through the arm even more! :eek: In the mean time, I put a screw-type hose clamp between the two bolts to keep the arm from hitting the ground for WHEN they both fail.

I have the 9C1 lowers here and I'm trying to decide if I should have a friend box them (and possibly extend them a little less than any of the other "extended" arms out there) or go ahead and buy new BMRs. :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Get the BMRs (or other aftermarket arms).

The issue with boxing them is it DOESN'T solve the inherent problem in them.....the metal itself is just too damn thin! It does help some, and If I were building a car for ONLY a drag-race applicaton, I'd seriously thing about just boxing the arms with Poly bushings, get some earplugs for the Poly squeaking
, and ditch the rear bar altogether. But, for a "handling" application the metal stamping itself is just too thin.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Ed, you are just one massive wealth of knowledge!!! Sure wish you had your own web page or a list of the best susp. parts, bang-for-the-buck type of thing. I obviosly need to help the susp.on my '96 9C1, don't need full blown auto-cross but something more than just Eibachs to lower it. If you have the time please feel free to email me what your total recommendations are. Starting to get a grip on it but having a hard time keeping it all straight, part name and number wise.

Either way, THANKS for being so willing and open to sharring, WE ALL appreciate it. And not to worry, think I'm one of three guys in the Milwaukee (and south) area that's into these things for more than a taxi-cab!!!

Greatly appreciate it all Ed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ed and others,

I will inspect my lower arms when I replace my drag radial nex weekend or so. I have been beating the lell out of the F/HA set up running nitto 555DR's 24/7 on stock arms.

Has anyone actually hand a 100% arm failure?

TAD
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sonuvah, your picture would not open for me. Maybe email to me. I plan on going with the same setup of everything that you have. I think its all topnoch equipment for the weight of our cars. Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Has anyone actually hand a 100% arm failure?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, a guy on the ROD list this summer. Fortunately, happened at low speed and no lasting damage to the car.

I'll repeat it again : those arms are CRAP, get them OFF the car!

Gunguy : look at the thread in Misc about mod lists. It's all listed there :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dougsster,

No reason not to get the HA rear (though as stated you wanna upgrade your RLCAS).

The front bar is another matter... it depends on how you want the car to handle... The two best choices are the HA/HO front bar and the 2nd Gen F-body front bar...Both of the below paragraphs assumes you're using the HA/HO rear bar:

The F-body bar will give you the most neutral (no understeer or oversteer) setup. It's the best if you've a good driver and you just want to go around corners really fast.

The HA/HO front bar will bias the car toward understeer just a bit... so your bleeding edge of cornering performance won't be quite as good, but it's a little "safer" setup since it's less likely to go into oversteer than the F-body bar, and oversteer is usually thought more dangerous.

Personally, I went with the HA rear and F-body front, and I haven't had any problems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Knightshade,

I was leaning toward the fbody and ha/ho bar combo and Me thinks you pushed me over the edge.

As far as the rlca's go, I think the extended bmrs are the ones I am gonna go with, What do you have? I am concerned over drive shaft length. Although I do wanna change the shaft eventually, I couldnt wait to put the bars and control arms if i didnt have the shaft!

Any thoughts?

Dougsster
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I decided a while ago that I was going to be keeping my Impala for a long time, as such I decided that when I replaced a part I would find out what the least-cost part was I could replace it with that ALSO fit the criteria of "I'll never want to replace this down the line with something even better." That's the philosophy that made me order an SSRI intake instead of putting a drop-in K&N filter in a swiss cheese box. It's why I got Tri-Y headers instead of banging a set of $150 shorties into fitting...

In the case of the RLCAs I was content with stock length, since the centering of the wheels in the wells is a cosmetic issue, not a performance one, and it would require not only changing the upper arms, which is NOT a pleasant job, but possibly create driveshaft issues.

So I looked into what the best RLCAs were... I ended up with a decision to make... the BMRs are like $150 and a good-enough part. The global west lcas were $450, but they were the best part you could buy. None of the ones in between, price wise, seems worth much more than the BMRs or were near as good as the GWs.

To me, I want a quick car more than a fast car, so any bind anywhere in the suspension is a bad thing for launch. The GW arms use spherical aircraft bushings at one end and del-a-lums at the other. All the other arms (including the BMRs) use poly and/or rubber bushings...and hence introduce bind.

After much thought, and some words from AutocroSSer who's the guru of SS suspension, I went with the Global West arms.
 
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