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1996 Impala SS
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am going to pulling the heads on my Impala soon to remove the exhaust manifold bolts that are stuck in there. Taking the heads to a machine shop so they can remove the bolts and check all the threads for me, some of the bolts as I pulled them out were bent and I believe they may have ruined the threads. I will be doing the throttle body coolant bypass while I am there. I live in the south and the car is stored during bad weather. Car also is losing weight.
I do have a few questions about this process though. Keep in mind the car has 135k miles on it.
  1. Should I have them clean the intake manifold and the throttle body while I am there or should I just carb clean the hell out of both and call it a day? I am pretty sure my intake manifold is leaking oil right now so I want to make sure everything goes back together real nice and pretty like.
  2. Should I remove the throttle body or just leave it on there when I clean it up? Saves me a few dollars on a gasket but I have no issue spending if it would be better.
  3. Is there a way to get the EGR studs off of the back of the intake?
  4. Are the intake manifold bolts one time use or can I reuse them?
  5. I will list my parts below and you can let me know if I am missing something.
My parts list right now
  • Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9966PT Mr. Gasket 5716G
  • Head Bolts ARP 134-3601
  • Intake Manifold Gaskets GM Genuine 12524653
  • Already have all exhaust side hardware and gaskets
  • Valve Cover Gaskets Fel-Pro VS50088R
  • Throttle Body Gasket GM Genuine 407018

I believe that is everything. I may come back with another question or two in the coming days. Heads will get pulled sometime in August. My girlfriend is going back to college and so that will be taking the majority of my time for the next two weeks. After that I will have zero issues.
 

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1996 Impala SS
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have a different head gasket you suggest?
I would like an MLS head gasket. I see some read composite and graphite. I can for sure say that I want an MLS head gasket.
 

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The only MLS " thin" gasket I know of would be the Cometic PART NO: C5645-027
Note: they sell them in sets of one
As in that is the price for one.

Never used them myself as any LT1s I have done were decked with small CC heads.
The engine that was in my wagon had small chambers.

As you are aware, MLS gaskets require very specific surface finishes.

Iron head iron LT1 , coming apart for broken bolts ,not sure I would be too freaked out about magical gaskets.
I just wouldnt throw away performance with gaskets that are thicker than the stock ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I won't be interested in spending $90 per just for a stock engine.
If not an MLS gasket do you have a suggestion for a proper b-body gasket? I guess I am not apposed to a graphite or other type of gasket but I only know of MLS being the standard head gasket for other vehicles. Still new to the LT1 platform.

RockAuto only has a couple of options for head gaskets with the two thickness options being .05 and .07.
 

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Looks like the OE 12553160 is NLA so the only " budget" thin gasket would be the Mr Gasket 5716G
.026 thick
.003 thinner than stock
Theoretical .65cc smaller , negligible change as opposed to the Felpos 4.75cc increase which would lose you a half a point of ratio .


 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That blows but that will work for me. Saves me the shipping on Summit now so really only an added $20 about.

Updated parts list to reflect. Just need to get the questions answered now.
I am slightly considering powdercoating the intake but I am not sure if I really want to add onto the overall cost of this project. It would look nicer though.
 

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From my experience with a leaking intake I removed and resealed:
1. It was recommended to me to clean by people on here and I’m glad I did. My intake was pretty nasty and the shop near me only charged 60 bucks to clean it all up. There are a lot of little passages I’m sure I wouldn’t have been able to get so it was well worth it. I painted it after and it looks nice.
2. I‘d definitely take the TB off to clean it. You’re already most of the way there, might as well do it right.
3. I don’t remember, but maybe they’re torx ended studs you can take off with a female torx socket? That might be wrong.
4.The bolts are reusable, the torque is actually pretty low on them.
5. sounds like you are deleting your EGR valve, but you’ll still need a gasket for a blanking plate. Got mine off rockauto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I decided to let the shop hot tank it for me. Still on the fence about painting or powder coating.

They look to be studs with a square end. I’m not real sure if they can come off.

Have a gasket
 

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use "throttle body cleaner" only on TB.

Hot tank the intake

Use the thinner Mr Gasket head gasket on stock iron head motor

I prefer the FelPro "printo seal" intake gaskets

Permatex Black "Ultra" RTV only for intake front & rear china walls

If springs are original on the heads, get a new set. Not sure what the desired iron head spring is for LT1 these days. The Crane 10309's were the bomb when they were available.

Put on new valve stem seals

The machine shop should be able to do a simple valve lap if thats where you are taking heads to, install new springs and seals or you do that part
 

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1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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@shakenfake check out my build thread...

You will find some pics/tips on cleaning the intake and TB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Why replace springs?

I already ordered the GM gaskets, I had read something about the printoseal Fel-Pros but didn't dig too deep into them.
 

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Why replace springs?
To rephrase:
Why replace the OE valvesprings that started floating @ 5600RpM 27 years ago, besides that they are 27 years old?

Even if you have zero interest in any valvetrain performance improvements, it's insurance.
(Maybe some of the money you saved on gaskets can go toward 1.6 roller rockers?)
 
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... ever taken a look inside your intake? ... one trick I used ... was to coat the inside of the intake with a high temp epoxy ... trying to mimic the plastic LS intake ... sprayed 4 or 5 cans of brake cleaner on the inside ... trying to get all the oil off before ... the epoxy would stick ...

... worked like a charm ... knocked about 2 tenths off my ET ... more importantly, made the car more consistent and less sensitive to heat soak when I was waiting in the lanes to run.
Optional, but this'd be the time to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Funny enough I was just thinking if anyone had ever tried header coating on the intake manifold.

I understand the sentiment about the valve springs but I just don’t think my plans for the car warrant them. This engine barely even sees 5000 RPM. If I was going a bit more radical I would say absolutely. Seals I will inspect and replace if needed.

I may be very new school in my thinking on the life span of things. Same as what should and shouldn’t be replaced. Trying to keep it all in the budget and not put too much into an engine I don’t plan on keeping is key for me right now.
 

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I understand the sentiment about the valve springs but I just don’t think my plans for the car warrant them. This engine barely even sees 5000 RPM. If I was going a bit more radical I would say absolutely. Seals I will inspect and replace if needed.
Please do not re-use the OEM valve springs. It's THAT important.

Get some Edelbrock 5703s, seriously.
 
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