Beats me.Nope. 30mm up front and 25mm out back. My caliper was calibration a month ago so I know it’s accurate.
RPO code attached. I dunno
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Can anyone comment on this?
Interstate speed stability
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Can anyone comment on this?
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1,236 Posts
If you want to stiffen the ride, the first place to look is the shocks. New shocks, especially impala or 9C1 shocks, will help A LOT with that wallowy feeling.
Of course, if you're like me, you can never just fix the issue. Once I start tearing things apart, common sense goes out the window.
Of course, if you're like me, you can never just fix the issue. Once I start tearing things apart, common sense goes out the window.
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11,705 Posts
You could try adapting an independent rear suspension from a Mustang, or Jaguar, after upgrading the front.
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1,236 Posts
Something else to look into - body bushings. The stockers are probably pretty worn by now.
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35 Posts
What about alignment? For a starting point, within factory specs, go for max negative camber, max positive caster, and enough toe-in to compensate for the camber and make things stable. A competent alignment shop will be able to understand your goal and accommodate your request.
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Be extremely careful with too much negative camber, you will get excess wear on the inside of the tires. I would keep it within -1 deg. of "0". Unless you are road racing, excessive negative camber is not necessarily a good thing.
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Within factory specs negative camber is acceptable, and tire wear will be even across the width of the tread when proper toe-in is used. Combined with positive caster (also within factory specs), increased front tire wear will be negligible, and using this setup will optimize stability, control, and safety.
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I believe that -1 deg is the outer limit of factory spec. If you are using too much neg. camber, and compensating with toe to equalize the thread wear, you will wear your tires out in short order, no matter what the caster is.
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35 Posts
The latest (and best) alignment I've used so far is (per side):
-.6 degrees camber
+4.8 degrees caster
.05 inch toe-in
No noticeable/measurable accelerated tire wear detected.
-.6 degrees camber
+4.8 degrees caster
.05 inch toe-in
No noticeable/measurable accelerated tire wear detected.
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2 Posts
New rear cargo coil springs, new front springs buy the commercial chassis springs, tallest ones you can find. Rear sway bar install requires different lower rear control arms. Gas shocks all the way around. No more wallow and f you reset your governor, you will leave the mistake behind as you pass 120.!
With the right parts you can out drive a miata. I take on BMWs all the time with my 94 RM sedan. New cargo coil springs in back. Gas shocks front and back, tallest commercial chassis springs in front. Factory front sway bar in front. No rear sway bar. 225\60\15 tires at 35 psi and the wall ow is gone.this
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What tires are you running?
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I sold my most recent B-Body, a 1995 Chevrolet Caprice wagon with LT-1 and 9C1 goodies on it. I put 20-25K miles on the 255/50-17 tires on Impala SS wheels. Previously I had a 1994 Buick Roadmaster wagon with (as best as I remember) 245/60-16 on American Racing wheels. Also 20-25K miles. Addco rear bars on both. Alignment settings on the Roadmaster were more moderate, and I liked the more recent settings better, as they provided decent steering feedback, along with less understeer. The car felt nimble, especially for a heavy car. After his test drive, the alignment guy commented that this was a good handling car. I agree.
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