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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1994 Roadmaster with 107k, 1 owner. It needs a fuel pump replacement but the seller includes it. Seller is asking $1,100 for it. is this a good deal? and what else should I be looking at when doing the inspection? After watching some videos I feel confident that I could do the fuel pump replacement. I would appreciate your input thank you guys.


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I always wonder why owner doesn't preform these fixes they claim are so simple?
"A/C needs recharged" oftentimes these days means to plan on replacing the total system,etc.
There's a chance your seller may be telling the truth, but you are also taking a chance.
 
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If the car is in good to very good shape otherwise. Then $1100 is not a bad price if LT1....
 
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1994 Roadmaster with 107k, 1 owner. It needs a fuel pump replacement but the seller includes it. ....

...... I would appreciate your input thank you guys.
The only input I can offer is wondering whether a car for sale that reportedly needs a fuel pump can run at all. If so, then how can the seller's information be accurate (i.e. validated)? Now if the car for sale is currently not running, then in order to eliminate any of the many other (much more expensive) causes for a car for sale with an engine that is not operating, the following would be required for at least a marginally confident purchase:
- a time/date stamped vid of the engine running, but with consistent but merely low gauge pressure readings. But at least running.

Replacing an aftermarket fuel pump, harness and sender is maybe $160-$200 parts and basic handtools. You sound willing to dive in to replace the pump. You don't mention whether in fact you can confirm the car is even running, so be mindful the $1,100 discount offering 'as-is' may have to include a lot more work.
 
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Connect the fuel rails to similar car with AN-04 ends on 1/4" fuel injection hose. It should start up, and run.
 
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'94 Roadmaster, 107k, 1 owner, needs a fuel pump replacement but the seller includes it. Seller is asking $1,100 for it. is this a good deal? and what else should I be looking at when doing the inspection?
While you school yourself on replacing the fuel pump (and possibly the sender assembly while you're down there), my major concern is for the 4L60E.
Vast majority of Roadmasters' first buyers were not the kind of enthusiasts who would change the ATF using the severe service schedule, or reprogram the pcm to improve the barely adequate line pressures (or for any of plenty other good reasons).

If he's getting rid of it for $1100, you might need to be ready to spend roughly $3900 over the next couple of years getting it up to snuff.
Still a frakken bargain - just prepare for the worst, expect anything, and don't be in a rush.
 

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OK. So it WASN'T [and isn't] running, with which case it's a parts car. There's bound to be at least the seller's price's worth of stuff if the effort is taken to strip it. If a FP makes it a working car again then worth the gamble!

If the car will not be immediately pressed into service as a daily, If there's a place to work it over, If so mechanically inclined, If time is available....... Lotsa ifs, but I could see it. If the body/interior doesn't add 20 more.
 
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Agree with Marky - if the rest of the car is in good shape, not rusty, and there's service records, you have a good starting point. You will still spend $3900 getting a 26 year old car reliable.

I recently bought a vehicle from a flipper. I identified 10 things wrong with it and got the price pretty low. I got it home and found 15 more things wrong.
 

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Agree with Marky - if the rest of the car is in good shape, not rusty, and there's service records, you have a good starting point. You will still spend $3900 getting a 26 year old car reliable.

I recently bought a vehicle from a flipper. I identified 10 things wrong with it and got the price pretty low. I got it home and found 15 more things wrong.
And how much did it cost you to turn it into a reliable car?

Although I'm presently not in the market for another car, I just did a casual search on ebay of 94-96 B- & D- cars vs '11-'17 Holden-Chevrolet Caprice PPVs.
It's becoming more difficult to justify spending $5k - $10k on a car in its mid-20s that I can't drive for a few months til I fix thisnthat, vs buying an Aussie PPV and driving with no worries for at least a few months.
 
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......

Although I'm presently not in the market for another car, I just did a casual search on ebay of 94-96 B- & D- cars vs '11-'17 Holden-Chevrolet Caprice PPVs.
It's becoming more difficult to justify spending $5k - $10k on a car in its mid-20s that I can't drive for a few months til I fix thisnthat, vs buying an Aussie PPV and driving with no worries for at least a few months.
I just did the same look-see re: PPVs. The first hit was CARFAX and it showed the majority as 'Gov't. Use'. Point taken that most with the same mileage as my FWB are priced $9-$16k, which is ok for getting into a legit wb, LS- RWD US car. But, [and it's a big but] - but as I actually dis-favor much of the doo-dads and non-value add glop on younger cars, that if the need for replacing mine comes up soon I'll be hunting yet another $3-7k lo-miler last gen D-body.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all so much for taking the time to drop some of your knowledge here. I wish I had asked this type of questions when I got into an old 6.5 turbo diesel. preview owner told me everything was good and gravy with the vehicle. 5 years later and I haven’t finished making it a reliable vehicle. Well now I know how to drop a 4l80 E transmission= not fun . Thanks you all so much for your time.


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Yep, the old military adage, "Trust But Verify" playing out in real life. All day, every day. Of course from my experience it's simpler. "Trust Nothing. Verify Everything."

Now of course the guy who snags it for $600 in a few months after the seller becomes outright desperate, and then gets it going with just a new FP, will make out like a bandit. But that still takes $800 that might wind up in the trashcan. And a big piece of junk in the driveway.

One of my favorite personal sayings: Buy the car, not the price.

All this preaching is exhausting.
 
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If the car is in good to very good shape otherwise. Then $1100 is not a bad price if LT1....
The first that's caught my eye, and had never given it much thought. But I didn't know baby LT-'s were offered by Buick or Olds.
 

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Yep, the old military adage, "Trust But Verify" playing out in real life. All day, every day. Of course from my experience it's simpler. "Trust Nothing. Verify Everything."

Now of course the guy who snags it for $600 in a few months after the seller becomes outright desperate, and then gets it going with just a new FP, will make out like a bandit. But that still takes $800 that might wind up in the trashcan. And a big piece of junk in the driveway.

One of my favorite personal sayings: Buy the car, not the price.

All this preaching is exhausting.
Loved that quote. “trust nothing verify everything“ I wanna be that bandit that gets that good deal lol. I think I’m gonna offer to install that FP for him and if it runs fine offer him a $750. This is the original post “Selling our original one owner 1994 Buick Roadmaster with 107k miles. LT1 V8 Corvette motor. Great project car. These cars are beasts on the highway and will last a lifetime. Car needs a fuel pump and will need to be towed.
Asking $1100 OBO, Motor alone is worth $1000.
*Make an offer and it is yours.
*COMES with new Fuel Pump
and a brand new battery. All features work and CLEAN ORIGINAL TITLE.”


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Clean title, OBO and he's throwing the new pump part. This thing's slowly getting too good to pass up.
 

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OP has not checked fuel pressure himself or checked if the pump is plugged in..
Can he afford bushing, ball joints, tie rods ect? Has he checked to see if they are needed?

Connect the fuel rails to similar car with AN-04 ends on 1/4" fuel injection hose. It should start up, and run.
Many companies make fuel injector cleaners that connect to the fuel rail. Fill one with fuel and then see if the engine runs and if the transmission can do forward and reverse.

If this is such a good deal have it towed to a shop with the injector cleaner and have it started and checked for basic safety and failed high cost parts. If the owner believes it is just the fuel pump he will pay for the tow back if it does not run as promised,

What is a 25 year old car with a toasted transmission worth if you do not need a parts car?

Some of the best money I have spent was on a qualified second opinion on a car I did not buy. If you can not afford $100+ dollars to check out a used car you probably should not get a 25 year old car. If you have to rely on shops for repairs 25 year old cars can be very expensive.
 

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Yes, there's scads of additional background that would permit better insights. From what I gather there's been no contact at all yet. Given that it's been a week it's likely ga-hone. We circle back again to that part where this is either going to be pressed immediately into daily duty, or just another fix-em up project to go with that other diesel project.

A tryout to start it is a prime idea, and would be easily accomplished with just gas or ether in the throttle body for a quick burst. Skillful negotiation of the OBO limit could make this a good roller to cannibalize even with a trashed drivetrain, though the risk is a liitle lowered by the mileage. The low miles, clean title and a Carfax type report would reduce risk if for nothing more than feeding another bought with less sketchy status. .But, there's going to be the point where it's just down to seeing it and the seller in person. Seeing the car itself will speak loudly about its life re: maint. and treatment.
 
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I always wonder why owner doesn't preform these fixes they claim are so simple?
"A/C needs recharged" oftentimes these days means to plan on replacing the total system,etc.
There's a chance your seller may be telling the truth, but you are also taking a chance.
YES!!!!! I have seen $50,000 or even $100,000 restorations on cars with factory A/C and the add says: "A/C needs to be recharged". WTF? Sometimes they just out and out remove the entire factory A/C/ Other times they take off the pulley belt. It is as if restoring an A/C system is some kind of voodoo that only Creole Wizards can accomplish.

If the A/C is NOT working, expect at least $1000 to get it working as it should. If it is less, then lucky you.
 
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