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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok there are alot of crappy streets out my way but ive noticed with both of my 9c1s (when i have my impala stocks on its more noticeable) that sometimes when i drive on an uneven road, the wheel that enters the road imperfection(tiny dip), turns my steering wheel in that direction(passenger wheels, turns car to right), so i would have to turn the steering wheel somewhat in the opposite direction to keep the car going straight.

now what im wondering is, has anyone else experienced this? Is there something in my suspension that needs to be tightened up? replaced? or could it be the steering box, tires, wheels, and or width of the tires even? Or is this something normal with these cars, and i'm just now realizing it?

any input at all would be great, thanks!
 

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Check your idler arm, any excess play in it will exaggerate this.

Pop the hood and have somebody turn the steering wheel back and fourth while observing the ball and socket of the idler arm for any excess movement. Its down on the pass. side frame rail, directly across from the steering arm on the opposite side.
 

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I had something like that going on with my 94 rmw . It was the water pump seep hole would leak a little on my belt when I would hit a hard bump. It would jerk the wheel to one side for a second. There really is a lot of things it could be though.
 

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I would check all suspension parts first but it also can be your tires, certian stock size tires tend to travel on creases or bumps on roads.

I forgot what brand tires my car had when I bought it,they were bad! seems like the wanted to follow every damn line on the road lol..New tires solved that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks fellas, i have Hankook Ventus Sport K104 255 50Z R17, when i get a chance im gonna check the idler arm, i was driving the car earlier and it was starting to irritate me
 

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replace it! It's about a 15 minute job. Really easy. Last one I bought was $15, but that was 1998, so who knows they might be more now.

Now when I had the 285's on my impala, it had this problem despite having a rebuilt front end. just took some getting used to.

~HJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
replace it! It's about a 15 minute job. Really easy. Last one I bought was $15, but that was 1998, so who knows they might be more now.

Now when I had the 285's on my impala, it had this problem despite having a rebuilt front end. just took some getting used to.

~HJ

i just checked with my parts house they told me $25

im gonna check to see if that was issue
 

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Make sure you get the one made by Moog from the "Problem Solver" line. They are bigger and stronger than the cheap ones. I have had to replace the cheap ones less than a year after installing them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Make sure you get the one made by Moog from the "Problem Solver" line. They are bigger and stronger than the cheap ones. I have had to replace the cheap ones less than a year after installing them.

thanks, and noted!
 

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Having a tie-rod separator makes this a little easier, http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-tie-rod-separator-1759.html, or your local parts store has them to loan out.

There is only 2 bolts that go through the frame, and 1 end-link to remove.



I found it best to separate the end-link first, so the idler arm is held somewhat while you drive the separator between the arm and the center link.





After that's disconnected, get the two bolts that attach the arm to the frame;


be careful as to not drop them, as the bolts are in a boxed portion of the frame that you access through two holes on the other side of the frame.



Going back, torque the two frame bolts to 61 ft-lbs, and the center-link to idler arm nut to 35 ft-lbs.

(I still haven't got around to changing mine, sorry for the nasty pics)
 
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