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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since I'm waiting for other parts to show, figured I'd do some of the other items on my list.

Brake hoses. Wagon has 141k on it, and these almost never get changed. On inspecting them, I verified they were the OE hoses.
Still have to do the rear hose, but until I get it off jackstands in front, too much of a PITA right now. Have to wait on that one for a while.

This is why I change them on every used car I buy



These aren't the worst I've seen, but they are still 22+ years old and showing their age. Good time to flush out all the old brake fluid as well.
The service records I got with the car show "brake fluid change" @ 107k, 9 years ago. So that's overdue as well.

Hoses and fluids are cheap, they should be checked and replaced, but rarely even get looked @
Since I haul my kids around in my vehicle I always feel better knowing the parts are new.
 

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IMHO going with stainless lines vs rubber will, and did for me, greatly improve pedal feel and braking performance

there are a few offerings available including the 5th line
 

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I had hoses that crappy 10 years ago. I still have the "5th" hose stock, The flare nut wont break, I have to heat it! :surprise:

Even when you run braided hoses, replace them every few years, as you have no idea what condition the inner liner is in! I heard about braided hoses being pinched, but I never thought about it until a hose got kicked up andI had no brakes on that wheel! It was a 10 year old braided hose, I imagine the age of it was a contributing factor of its failure, maybe the hose formed a weak spot
 

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I got the complete kit from Russell and highly recommend it. Great quality.

If your rubber brake lines lasted 141K miles, these will easily do that and probably more. Of course an ounce of prevention...

I did the front, as they were a no-brainer. The rears on my car were fine, so I will save them for another time! The 5th one is a pain in the ass, but looked good to me.
 

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Since I'm waiting for other parts to show, figured I'd do some of the other items on my list.

Brake hoses. Wagon has 141k on it, and these almost never get changed. On inspecting them, I verified they were the OE hoses.
Still have to do the rear hose, but until I get it off jackstands in front, too much of a PITA right now. Have to wait on that one for a while.

This is why I change them on every used car I buy



These aren't the worst I've seen, but they are still 22+ years old and showing their age. Good time to flush out all the old brake fluid as well.
The service records I got with the car show "brake fluid change" @ 107k, 9 years ago. So that's overdue as well.

Hoses and fluids are cheap, they should be checked and replaced, but rarely even get looked @
Since I haul my kids around in my vehicle I always feel better knowing the parts are new.
Very good idea to replace the hoses and Change the Brake Fluid. Brake Fluid is probably one of the most overlooked maintenance items on a car. With the moisture absorption problems of brake fluid, it really should be changed on a regular basis. I just do a gravity Bleed at all 4 corners until clear and wipe down the MC reservoir with a lint free cloth when the fluid gets low enough. I don't think you would find many people who maintain their cars that also replace their Brake Fluid on a regular basis....if ever.

In addition to what your pics show of the outside of the hoses, they can also break down internally. I had issues where the rotors were warping after a few thousand miles and all new HW, Pads, rotors etc. Not until I swapped the Flex Hoses did the problem get resolved. I believe it was a problem internally with the hoses preventing the caliper from releasing and heating up the rotor.

I had hoses that crappy 10 years ago. I still have the "5th" hose stock, The flare nut wont break, I have to heat it! :surprise:
I held off doing that Hose for years and finally got brave enough to give it a go. I did find removing what I could to get better eyes/hands/tools on it to be a big help. Along with soaking the fitting (numerous days) and cleaning it the best I could behind the Nut was very helpful. Once the nut breaks free, it's not too bad to remove but that is the most difficult and Scary part of this job. My fear was getting it to a point of no return where I would have to replace the metal line back there....not a job I would like to do with the body sitting on the frame.

I did this on a sedan, so not sure how different this may be on a wagon. But maybe this post may help, along with that entire thread when you get ready to do this.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/11465089-post28.html

It was a feeling of relief when the Nut broke free. I'm a strong believer of Cleaning the Metal Line just behind the Nut in an attempt to break that seal. Also tightening the fitting a little first if you have trouble getting it to break free. Good Luck.
 

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Is there any sort of brake hose replacement interval? Mileage or age? First time I replaced brake hoses was in 2001 on a 1987 model year car and it made a huge difference in stopping. I'm working on a 2007 for a friend and brake hoses are so cheap from Rock Auto and although they look good, I'm really leaning towards just replacing them while I'm in there. This is totally rust free west Georgia vehicle. Should I, or not?
 

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You always run the risk of breaking the bleeder screw off when
bleeding brakes so unless you are replacing the caliper
I wouldn't touch the brake line hoses.

Nab
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I personally would replace them. They're old and it cannot hurt.
One of the most neglected items on vehicles.
Usually cheap too.
 

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I haphazardly tried years ago for a set for FWB, and would sure like them on my current one. If their product offerings are anywhere as good as their communication philosophy, then this could be a promising lead:

"Here at Russell Performance, we value your business and are always here to offer guidance and support regarding all of our products. Our philosophy is that the telephone is the most effective way to communicate and trouble shoot any issues or concerns you may have. For that reason technical email support is not currently available."

I'll give them a call in a bit and report back. Has anyone had luck with a one-off set for the Cady? Sorry babywag for hyjack, but you got a good title for future search. ;)
 

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You always run the risk of breaking the bleeder screw off when
bleeding brakes so unless you are replacing the caliper
I wouldn't touch the brake line hoses.

Nab
Try to loosen the bleeder screw before removing the brake line - If you can't get the screw loose, then obviously, don't do the line :). If this is a rust free vehicle like sherlock9c1 mentions then it shouldn't be much trouble.

One trick that works well for bleeder screws is to put the tightest fitting drill bit you can in the center hole. If you have to "drill" it in that's OK. Ideally, you'd put the solid end in the bleeder screw, leave the fluted end out. This prevents the center from collapsing and the screw twisting off.

Don't be shy of giving it a good solid hit with a hammer - both straight on the end (axially) and from the side of the caliper. Many times the shock from a hammer hit will break things loose along with some good penetrating oil and heat.
 

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IMHO I would (and did) use SS braided brake lines, including the 5th one, and if the calipers are of = age (read original) I would rebuild those also or buy rebuilt ones

The SS lines really firm up brake pedal under heavy braking
 

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No go with Russell. They don't do custom work. They did give contact for a 'Good Ridge Co' and waiting for callback.
 

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No go with Russell. They don't do custom work. They did give contact for a 'Good Ridge Co' and waiting for callback.
I bought the Good Ridge for mine. They are DOT certified and appear to be well made. I got them from Tire Rack.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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WAY back when, I am thinking 1999-2000, there was a guy named Hans who had a 95 SS he terrorized the Autobahn with. He had several modifications including a rear diff cooler as his car was set up for high top end speed. There was video of his digital MPH doing at least 150+ IIRC.

Anyway he got me Fisher-Hydraulik SS lines (5) that were TUV rated for about $125 IIRC back then that if not made for the SS were a direct bolt in fit. IDK if these are available here as he sent them to me from Germany. They have served me well for about 20 years now.
 

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I haphazardly tried years ago for a set for FWB, and would sure like them on my current one. If their product offerings are anywhere as good as their communication philosophy, then this could be a promising lead:

"Here at Russell Performance, we value your business and are always here to offer guidance and support regarding all of our products. Our philosophy is that the telephone is the most effective way to communicate and trouble shoot any issues or concerns you may have. For that reason technical email support is not currently available."

I'll give them a call in a bit and report back. Has anyone had luck with a one-off set for the Cady? Sorry babywag for hyjack, but you got a good title for future search. ;)
Never more than glanced at the back of the caddy,
I ASSume you are saying custom due the the 4 wheel ABS?
Could you not use a pair of Impala frame to diff housing hoses with a 3/8 Inverted flare plug in the unused port on each ?
 

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It's fuzzy, but my recollection is that Cady's open rear and 4-channel ABS/TC independently reads and feeds all 4 sides straight from the module, whereas the Impala SS with its "locked together" LSD design has the 3-channel design only sensing a single signal from the rear.

Sure the fronts are the same for B- and D-. I think it'll only take me the concentration to find the spec of both ends of the back stock hoses (size, angle, single-double flame, etc.) and track down a quality outfit willing to swedge up a set in s.s. braided. But hearing about DOT-approved makes it understandable why most places might shy away from doing a set - especially if not seeing much of a market. Another thought if finding out what the oem ends are = mashing up a pair using a compatible application eh. Lord help me if it turns out a Kia. Or Ford.


EDIT: Important to clarify I am interested in -->retaining<-- ABS/TC, v. others here are interested in deleting it/them.
 

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WAY back when, I am thinking 1999-2000, there was a guy named
Heinz
who had a 95 SS he terrorized the Autobahn with. He had several modifications including a rear diff cooler as his car was set up for high top end speed.
There was video of his digital MpH doing at least 150+ IIRC.

Anyway he got me Fisher-Hydraulik SS lines (5) that were TUV rated for about $125 IIRC back then that if not made for the SS were a direct bolt in fit.
IDK if these are available here as he sent them to me from Germany. They have served me well for about 20 years now.
His ISSF handle was 'coolchevy'. Unfortunately, his member info has been lost to the GDL of August 2009.

Did he ever get his ImpalaSS past 194MpH? …
 

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His ISSF handle was 'coolchevy'. Unfortunately, his member info has been lost to the GDL of August 2009.

Did he ever get his ImpalaSS past 194MpH? …
yeah that guy. You are right about the 194 mph that showed on his 95 speedo. IDK if he ever went faster. Can't remember what all he had done to his car but 194mph is insane fast on stock suspension but I can't recall what exactly his mods were but assume suspension was modded let alone motor/drive train

I remember just snail mailing him a personal check (this was long before PayPal) for the brake lines. I received the lines before he even cashed the check. Even from Germany he was on the forum often back then.
 

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