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Pic of the Jeep shaft in my RMS and the frame brace I made to go under the ft sway bar mounts. I also got the upper and lower control arms on today. Still some steering wheel play, I don't know if it is worth trying to adjust the box or just replace it. All steering and suspension has now been replaced except the box.
 

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KG I heard that these new ones don't work because they are not adjustable.

Sent from my G-6155 Interceptor
 

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View attachment 57386

View attachment 57394

Pic of the Jeep shaft in my RMS and the frame brace I made to go under the ft sway bar mounts. I also got the upper and lower control arms on today. Still some steering wheel play, I don't know if it is worth trying to adjust the box or just replace it. All steering and suspension has now been replaced except the box.

Not to mess up the Jeep Shaft Thread, but I'm interested in more details about your Frame Brace and Sway bar mount setup.

Do you have another thread somewhere with more info on what you did and how? If not, could you post something up in another thread or PM me some details?

Getting ready to mount a Herb Adams front bar and what to do something else there and the frame bolt holes have me a little worried too since the threads dont usually hold up well.
 

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It is a pretty simple setup, I got some leaf spring clamp plates at a truck suspension shop with the right distance between the holes for the sway bar bracket, welded 2 of them to a 3/4" bar, used cap screws and spacers to bolt it in. All it has to do is prevent the frame from deflecting in/out so I think the 3/4" bar is plenty big enough. I also added the rear frame support and poly frame bushings recently, the car seems to be more responsive, rides better and has less understeer than before. The threads in my frame are in good shape, car has been in Az. since day 1.
 

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Looks like the PN for the Crown shaft is their PN not the manufacture PN.

I purchased the crown one on ebay and it will fit nicely once I can get the damn thing to collapse. I got ahead of myself and took my stock shaft out and spent the day PB blasting the Jeep shaft and lightly tapping it. I didn't want to ruin the thing so I'm going to take it to a shop and use a press. I ended up putting the stock shaft back in and now this thing sounds like a squeaky bed when I turn.

Its funny, my neighbors always ask me car questions because they see me messing with my car; I tell them if you only knew how much time I've wasted looking like I know what I'm doing under the hood, it's smoke and mirrors. lol


I see a few links posted, but still not clear.

Are these the same thing? Diff PN?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crown-52078...-XJ-Steering-Shaft-Intermediate-/400575652242

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_04.htm

One says lower, the other intermediate. We need both? They look alike, I figure we only need the lower shaft. How much are you guys paying at the yard?
 

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Finally got it in!

:D

No BFH tapping, PB blasting, voodoo spell was loosing the 1996 Jeep xj shaft up. I purchased a propane torch and heated it and then tapped it with a BFH and it finally started to move cwm2.

POR15'd it for good measure and got the thing in and it took out a ton of play in my steering wheel which for me equates to more responsive steering.

Now I have to get the seals replaced in my freaken steering box cause it started to leak like a faucet.... well not that much but I hate freaken leaks:mad:!

Lucky for me I have another steering box in the shed and a rebuild kit around here somewhere.


**update 11/4/13**

Drove 15 miles on the freeway this morning and didn't have to constantly correct the steering wheel; I'm a happy camper.
 

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As anybody installed the Borgeson shaft with out the Vibration Joint? My friend ordered me the wrong part. When I received it I noticed it has the same specs as the joint with the vibration damper.



It's just smaller in size.

 

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As anybody installed the Borgeson shaft with out the Vibration Joint? My friend ordered me the wrong part. When I received it I noticed it has the same specs as the joint with the vibration damper.



It's just smaller in size.

Choo. There is no need to "go big" with Borgeson... unless its stainless or somrthing. trust when i say the jeep shaft is best. I POR15'd it for a lil more protection.
 

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I purchased my "EZ-fit" shaft new from FlamingRiver. They are not inexpensive,but they are bulletproof...
 

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can i just go out and buy a replacement shaft for a 94 cherokee and notch the upper shaft. is it that easy to "bolt on" this piece
 

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I'm having a hard time installing it on the gear box. It seems the Jeep shaft is to small to put on the teeth of the box. Any special way to put it on?
 

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Anyone have any tips for getting to the bolt on the top half of the oem shaft? the head is on the side of the brake lines and getting the wrench in there doesn't leave a whole lot of room to loosen it.
 

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If you rotate the steering to where you can access the nut, just keep the head tight against the shaft...it has a square base that fits into a square hole to keep it from turning while you remove the nut.
 

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Thanks Fred, I have the lower part of the shaft unbolted and slid off the steering box, previous posts said NOT to turn the steering wheel for fear of damaging the clock spring, so should I reconnect the lower so I can turn the wheel just to loosen the top bolt?
 

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I guess the easy way is to reconnect the lower end, and turn the wheel. You can center the steering, and the upper bolt should be in a position to remove it.


You can reset the clockspring. With the intermediate shaft disconnected, remove the wheel, and gently turn the shaft, with the clockspring installed, all the way in the direction of the arrow on the clockspring (probably left) until it stops, then turn the shaft 2 1/2 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow. Center it, and connect the intermediate shaft.
 

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I took your advice and just reconnected the bottom part so I could turn the shaft, got to the bolt and it was easy from there. thanks again
 

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Yeah, I usually just align the bolt head to where I can easily reach it from up top and have it positioned toward the brake booster. As you may have mentioned, avoid turning the steering wheel once the shaft is disconnected. It's ok to turn it a 1/2 turn or so, just be sure to go back the opposite direction the same amount.
 

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Got 'er done! I did some trading and got a jeep shaft from Robert Davis, and he even installed it.

It is GLORIOUS!

I love my car again, mostly.


New shafts are available too, best price is on Amazon.
Here's a link to a pretty detailed write up. They used a new shaft.
http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http:...ody-car-with-a-trashed-rag-joint/&h=yAQFz12hy

Here's a link to the best price I've found:
https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http...06&sr=8-2&keywords=jeep%204713943&h=AAQGMrnu7

Stop complaining about how sloppy your steering is and get er done!
 

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Finally picked up some Tri-Y's and will be able to do this Jeep Shaft install when I install the Headers. The last time I tried this mod, the Hooker Headers would not allow it but it was obvious something needed to be done to the Bottom of the steering column to allow the Bolt to go thru. I believe the Stock Shaft and Bolt go thru the CENTER of the Steering Column shaft and this Jeep Shaft mod requires the bolt to go thru the side.

Make a small groove in the D tube, so the bolt can pass. The bolts are the size used, because they need the strength. I used the bolts that came with the shaft, and they fit without incident.
Was thinking as Fred described that it was as simple as grinding a notch in the bottom of the steering column shaft. Had a good idea of what needs to be done here but did not see a picture to describe it. This link here has a picture that shows this step pretty well. Hope this helps someone else.....

XJ Steering Shaft Upgrade (88-94 Trucks) 95+instructions on page 31 | GMT400 - The Ultimate 88-98 GM Truck Forum

EDIT - Even better info and Pics in this link.....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/11597641-post12.html
 
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