[96 Black]

For Mr. -mafia, v. nice score. The Orig. Owner put together a pretty smart order. And that's my fave color for Fleetwoods, right behind the '03 Silverado Dk. Gray Met. I painted my first one

For an upgrade to the Bosch 4-chan TC, and even more to eliminate that system's bad habit of throwing the 'throttle relaxer' at the worst possible instances, I installed the 'normally open' Powertrax No-Slip, - with just regular handtools and no re-dialing anything. When called for, it's just a momentary lockup and you've got full posi, - and with the TC still energized:

No-Slip Traction System

www.powertrax.com

With the footie vents I'll lay $$$ every '93-'96 has it,. just find the slits in the carpet forward of the inboard seat anchor:

 

[96 Black]

".... Do you know if TC can be turned off or deleted? Is the system worth anything? ...."

Find the toggle left side, inside the glove box, switches it on & off. The system re-energizes with each new start. Be mindful that when turned off you eradicate the pesky throttle relaxer. This provides for very impressive stationary burnouts from stop. And while severely embarrassing one-wheel-only, it can also be potentially fatal if trying to move quickly into or across traffic.

About worth, considering the number of seperate components involving the TC, along with all the interconnecting wiring, plumbing and programming, the overall system would be of little value except as repair parts for another Fleetwood.

 

[96 Black]

While I think I benefit immensely from having a fully functional ABS in any 5,000# tub, I think at least one positive guys find who've ditched theirs is it also has to have vanished the TC. Orange and/or blue dash lights notwithstanding.

 

[96 Black]

I have the No-Slip as well and like it. I do recommend it, but I also point out a downside. The cross shaft is a loose fit through the unit (has to be for the design to work). This is slop that you can notice at times. For example: shifting to park on an incline- when you release the brakes, the car will roll enough to get your attention. “Is this thing going to hold??” You can also notice it in hilly areas when dfco is kicking on and off frequently. You’ll feel a little bump as the slack is taken up.
I did have some pops and bangs from mine when it was new and “breaking in” but they went away quickly.
It is a true locker and more aggressive than the more common limited slip options.

It's going on 6 years I've had mine and yes, the steeper the grade then I've gotten in the habit the more gradually I'll let up on the pedal once shifting in Park to ease more into everything tightening up. It also makes certain I won't smack into someone's bumper. The 'unlocking' pops were pretty unnerving when just new. The very first one was in a real tight parking garage just after installing. I knew what it had to be from, but the wife and passengers in back must have thought we'd been reared. Now there's little more than the ass end scooting right an inch for half a second as the TC thinks about energizing before things lock up. The only issue I have is a 'reverse of a complaint' as it stays in lockup long after it's no longer needed, and sometimes a scooting sound around a corner (maybe more tire wear). I find it helps 'unload' things if I enter the turn under power and quickly foot off the gas and then a quiet little bump sound.
Now at a whole 80k miles on my Impala SS the oem LS was long dead at half that many miles, and I'm pointing to the wormgear design when I choose new gears.

 

[96 Black]

[Snipped just for comments]
Might delete the air pump and throttle body heating lines but not sure if its worth it.
Getting the 'crossunder pipe out is a pain, but at very least disable the AIR Pump and plug its entries into the ex. manifolds. Your OBDI will not throw a code or light up the MIL.
I couldn't find the rear floor vents but I also noticed you cant have the floor vents on when the a.c. is on. The 9c1 has simillar issues but I can get cold air to come out of my floor vents. So I'll have to investigate this farther. Im looking for a road master climate unit as well. The RM head is (ok, well was) a very popular mod. Don't quote me but I think some cool air feeds to the floor when in ECON. But I follow the old saw, "When your feet are warm you're warm. When your head is cool you're cool." I just point the dash vents hi n outside when there's anyone in back and it's hot out.

The trunk lock also doesn't work. I can still get in using the remote and button in the glove box (only when car is on, wtf?)
I knew the power antenna was missing but the replacement is hideous in person and I'm for sure trying to get the power antenna back in.
There's at least one member (Fred?) for used parts, but also aftermarket for new antennas. Just be sure to get the correct one for your '94-'95 'amp in the trunk' design.
The gear identifier cable must have come disconnected or broke because it doesn't move when shifting.
VERY common, and an easy repair. I drove my '95 for its final 5 years without it (90=N and one down is D, 1 or two more for downshifting, back up to the detent for N and slap 1 down to resume. My current one was also broke when purchased and almost didn't fix it on purpose (kinda fun doing it by memory).

Equalizer presets but is there any way to set them?
It's either a button toggling between Rock, Classic and Talk, or, it's going to be a button that turns the station buttons into sliding bars for the different bands - IJustDR.
Is there really no lumbar adjustment?
I vaguely recall a poster long ago mentioned his '94 had them, but that it was dropped for the last two years.
Theres also a few things I need to research. The big one Is, Is there anyway to add Bluetooth to the factory cd and cassette radio?
Investigate places to send yours in for either an Aux., USB and/or BT to be added.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and look for the rear floor vents a little harder armed with what I know now

It'll be extremely rare to have one where the froglegs missed installation on the line. The '95 had them, as the current '96 has as well. And so does my Impala SS. But you'll likely get a cool $1M at auction if it's also a 'Slits Delete' in the carpet as well.
And yes, more pics.

 

[96 Black]

Copy-Pasted Tkx. I bought my locker new in '05 for my first FWB to go with its rear discs, but never installed it until my current one in '17. I don't recall ever anything like that included in the installation info.
Funny the wife's 4WD Explorer had a bad habit of locking up in Park with any kind of downhill grade. We had to do the Park Brake trick on that one.

 

[96 Black]

"......and the rear one is cracked. Was planning to just leave the rear one until it breaks completely because I don't want to risk breaking the glass trying to pull it from the slider."

You needn't "pull" anything. A cracked original slider can be simply "popped" loose with no strain on the glass by getting a pair of really skinny long-snout needlenose in behind the ball and shoving in till tight and just squeeze the jaws closed. I've had a couple it just took the right-sized straightshank to lever off, and of course lube helps in any case. Just do them both while you're in there.

'Nothing' seems to stick to those Fleetwood 'particle board' door panels. Thanks for the lead on that superglue. Duco Cement (GOOP), 5-min. epoxy and urethane glue have been big fails for me.