[96 Black]

While I think I benefit immensely from having a fully functional ABS in any 5,000# tub, I think at least one positive guys find who've ditched theirs is it also has to have vanished the TC. Orange and/or blue dash lights notwithstanding.

 

[1slow96]

Fully functional ,but extremely primitive compared to today's systems. 99% of the time? Just along for the ride.
How much can one justify spending on maintaining ,and/or repairing it? Money that could be spent elsewhere.
Many of us learned how to drive long before ABS ,and don't just slam on the brakes at the first sign of trouble.

 

[Fred Kiehl]

I like the the Eaton Truetrac LSD. Nothing to rebuild, quiet, and almost instantaneous. Uses spiral gears.

 

[Jim Paley]

I installed the 'normally open' Powertrax No-Slip, - with just regular handtools and no re-dialing anything. When called for, it's just a momentary lockup and you've got full posi

I have the No-Slip as well and like it. I do recommend it, but I also point out a downside. The cross shaft is a loose fit through the unit (has to be for the design to work). This is slop that you can notice at times. For example: shifting to park on an incline- when you release the brakes, the car will roll enough to get your attention. “Is this thing going to hold??” You can also notice it in hilly areas when dfco is kicking on and off frequently. You’ll feel a little bump as the slack is taken up.
I did have some pops and bangs from mine when it was new and “breaking in” but they went away quickly.
It is a true locker and more aggressive than the more common limited slip options.

 

[Mendonmafia]

All good suggestions but think I'm gonna keep it mostly stock in terms of drive train until things start breaking. Might delete the air pump and throttle body heating lines but not sure if its worth it. May also add the same short ram intake I have on my 9c1 because I like how the air dam helps keep the engine bay clean.

Finally took delivery of the car and I couldn't find the rear floor vents but I also noticed you cant have the floor vents on when the a.c. is on. The 9c1 has simillar issues but I can get cold air to come out of my floor vents. So I'll have to investigate this farther. Im looking for a road master climate unit as well.

The car is also in a bit rougher shape than I thought but still pretty clean. Even has a bit of new car smell some how. But it's missing a small piece of the black plastic trim on the passenger side rear bumper lower chrome trim. The pieces of chrome rocker just in front of the rear bumper trim were also screwed in and the one on the driver side is falling off. The driver inner wheel has a hold rusted through it and the passenger one is a bit rusty as well. Oddly the rust looks like its coming from the top/inside the engine bay. The trunk lock also doesn't work. I can still get in using the remote and button in the glove box (only when car is on, wtf?) But I'd like keyd entry as well. I knew the power antenna was missing but the replacement is hideous in person and I'm for sure trying to get the power antenna back in. Theres about a 5 in narrow strip of rust forming at the driver side of the rear windshield and there's about a 2x2 inch piece of paint missing from the opposite side but no rust yet. Also a few small dings and scratches and chips elsewhere but pretty minor. The gear identifier cable must have come disconnected or broke because it doesn't move when shifting. The driver side floor mat and the front carpet on the trans hump are also stained. And of course the cracked dash and broken window sliders (or related) that I Already knew about. but that's pretty much all the flaws I found so far.

Overall the car has way more features than I thought such as factory keyless entry, dimming rearview, cig lighters in the rear doors, map lights on the rearview, map lights, vanity mirrors with lights, and a few other things.

It also has a few things I'm not familar with such as the lights on top of the front fenders pointing into the windshield. Equalizer presets but is there any way to set them? Is there really no lumbar adjustment? I don't like the b pillar seat belt cover because there's no place for my elbow like there is in the 9c1, which basically renders the left armrest useless. I also dont like how you have to use the flip open handle to close the door. Theres no recess in the armrest to use. I know some caprice have both options but my 9c1 only has the armrest recess. But if I have to choose I like the 9c1 setup better for functionality (I 3d printed my own armrest savers).

Theres also a few things I need to research. The big one Is, Is there anyway to add Bluetooth to the factory cd and cassette radio? I used to have a 2000 300m with a 4 disc in dash changer and you could basically wire an aux port into one of the disc inputs, select that disc and it would provide aux. If you had a CD in that slot it would play both lol. I'm thinking about doing this to the cassette input but not sure if it's possible.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and look for the rear floor vents a little harder armed with what I know now

 

[Fred Kiehl]

I have a couple of the RM A/C head units. PM me.

 

[96 Black]

I have the No-Slip as well and like it. I do recommend it, but I also point out a downside. The cross shaft is a loose fit through the unit (has to be for the design to work). This is slop that you can notice at times. For example: shifting to park on an incline- when you release the brakes, the car will roll enough to get your attention. “Is this thing going to hold??” You can also notice it in hilly areas when dfco is kicking on and off frequently. You’ll feel a little bump as the slack is taken up.
I did have some pops and bangs from mine when it was new and “breaking in” but they went away quickly.
It is a true locker and more aggressive than the more common limited slip options.

It's going on 6 years I've had mine and yes, the steeper the grade then I've gotten in the habit the more gradually I'll let up on the pedal once shifting in Park to ease more into everything tightening up. It also makes certain I won't smack into someone's bumper. The 'unlocking' pops were pretty unnerving when just new. The very first one was in a real tight parking garage just after installing. I knew what it had to be from, but the wife and passengers in back must have thought we'd been reared. Now there's little more than the ass end scooting right an inch for half a second as the TC thinks about energizing before things lock up. The only issue I have is a 'reverse of a complaint' as it stays in lockup long after it's no longer needed, and sometimes a scooting sound around a corner (maybe more tire wear). I find it helps 'unload' things if I enter the turn under power and quickly foot off the gas and then a quiet little bump sound.
Now at a whole 80k miles on my Impala SS the oem LS was long dead at half that many miles, and I'm pointing to the wormgear design when I choose new gears.

 

[96 Black]

[Snipped just for comments]
Might delete the air pump and throttle body heating lines but not sure if its worth it.
Getting the 'crossunder pipe out is a pain, but at very least disable the AIR Pump and plug its entries into the ex. manifolds. Your OBDI will not throw a code or light up the MIL.
I couldn't find the rear floor vents but I also noticed you cant have the floor vents on when the a.c. is on. The 9c1 has simillar issues but I can get cold air to come out of my floor vents. So I'll have to investigate this farther. Im looking for a road master climate unit as well. The RM head is (ok, well was) a very popular mod. Don't quote me but I think some cool air feeds to the floor when in ECON. But I follow the old saw, "When your feet are warm you're warm. When your head is cool you're cool." I just point the dash vents hi n outside when there's anyone in back and it's hot out.

The trunk lock also doesn't work. I can still get in using the remote and button in the glove box (only when car is on, wtf?)
I knew the power antenna was missing but the replacement is hideous in person and I'm for sure trying to get the power antenna back in.
There's at least one member (Fred?) for used parts, but also aftermarket for new antennas. Just be sure to get the correct one for your '94-'95 'amp in the trunk' design.
The gear identifier cable must have come disconnected or broke because it doesn't move when shifting.
VERY common, and an easy repair. I drove my '95 for its final 5 years without it (90=N and one down is D, 1 or two more for downshifting, back up to the detent for N and slap 1 down to resume. My current one was also broke when purchased and almost didn't fix it on purpose (kinda fun doing it by memory).

Equalizer presets but is there any way to set them?
It's either a button toggling between Rock, Classic and Talk, or, it's going to be a button that turns the station buttons into sliding bars for the different bands - IJustDR.
Is there really no lumbar adjustment?
I vaguely recall a poster long ago mentioned his '94 had them, but that it was dropped for the last two years.
Theres also a few things I need to research. The big one Is, Is there anyway to add Bluetooth to the factory cd and cassette radio?
Investigate places to send yours in for either an Aux., USB and/or BT to be added.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow and look for the rear floor vents a little harder armed with what I know now

It'll be extremely rare to have one where the froglegs missed installation on the line. The '95 had them, as the current '96 has as well. And so does my Impala SS. But you'll likely get a cool $1M at auction if it's also a 'Slits Delete' in the carpet as well.
And yes, more pics.

 

[Z09B4U]

For example: shifting to park on an incline- when you release the brakes, the car will roll enough to get your attention. “Is this thing going to hold??

the steeper the grade then I've gotten in the habit the more gradually I'll let up on the pedal once shifting in Park to ease more into everything tightening up.

Quote from the OM:

Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you don't shift your transmission into PARK (P) properly , the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and shift into PARK (P) .

When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.

If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the transmission,
end quote.

With the different ways different "limited slip" systems work (or fail) it is worth the effort to set the parking brake on a hill. If normal differentials or some "limited slip" systems lose traction on one wheel in park the opposite wheel will turn allowing the car to "roll" down hill.

The best reason to use the parking brake once in a while is regular use keeps the parts and cables from sticking and requiring extra maintenance.

I understand that the majority may never experience wheel slip (traction loss) while parked. But in area that have snow and ice it does happen. It happened to one of my neighbours resulting in a truck going through a fence, and truck damage, but luckily no harm to persons or animals.

Using the parking brake and turning the front wheels to use the curb as a chock removes stress from the parking pawl.

 

[96 Black]

Copy-Pasted Tkx. I bought my locker new in '05 for my first FWB to go with its rear discs, but never installed it until my current one in '17. I don't recall ever anything like that included in the installation info.
Funny the wife's 4WD Explorer had a bad habit of locking up in Park with any kind of downhill grade. We had to do the Park Brake trick on that one.

 

[pringleser]

Think they're pretty well hidden under the carpeting under the front seats.

 

[Mendonmafia]

mods please delete this post

 

[Mendonmafia]

Well I still didn't see if the vent grills are under the seat (been busy fixing the window rollers and door panels) but I verified that I do have air coming from under the rear seats.

Only did the front driver window so far. The front slider was completely broken and the rear one is cracked. Was planning to just leave the rear one until it breaks completely because I don't want to risk breaking the glass trying to pull it from the slider. I still have 7 gm rollers from the previous owner of my 9c1 (need to do the rears in that car too but they're manual and I rarely have people in the back sooo...) but they don't really roll despite cleaning the track and greasing the roller hole.

In the process I noticed that some of the Christmas tree clip mounting locations were completely seperated from the panel so I'm gluing them back on. Strange how different the door panel design is to my 9c1. 9c1 panel is all plastic around the bottom and the plastic breaks but in the FW the plastic bosses for the Xmas tree connectors are glued to the fiber door panel. There was no sign of the panel ever being removed in the FW so apparently after 28 years the glue GM used simply stopped sticking. I'm using super glue designed for plastic and rubber which I've been using on everything lately with great results but for some reason it's taking forever to bond these somewhat porous surfaces.

I tried to post pics of the car but for some reason the options are all grayed out...

 

[96 Black]

"......and the rear one is cracked. Was planning to just leave the rear one until it breaks completely because I don't want to risk breaking the glass trying to pull it from the slider."

You needn't "pull" anything. A cracked original slider can be simply "popped" loose with no strain on the glass by getting a pair of really skinny long-snout needlenose in behind the ball and shoving in till tight and just squeeze the jaws closed. I've had a couple it just took the right-sized straightshank to lever off, and of course lube helps in any case. Just do them both while you're in there.

'Nothing' seems to stick to those Fleetwood 'particle board' door panels. Thanks for the lead on that superglue. Duco Cement (GOOP), 5-min. epoxy and urethane glue have been big fails for me.

 

[Mendonmafia]

Finally letting me post pics so here's a few for now.